So I have 06 v8 mustang and I replaced the cai it had a steeda intake on it so I just bought the new tube because the old one cracked. Simple fix but I discovered there was a throttle body spacer on it when doing this because the new intake tube was rubbing on radiator tank which made the old one cracked and I thought this ain’t right and inspected the throttle body and it was factory but I noticed the spacer behind it and took all the sensors off correctly and all then unbolted the tb and spacer gasket was good looking so I just put it all together and I thought it should all be good now. Started it up seemed good turned it off and the filter was real dirty so I washed it and waited till the next day to oil it and put back on. Once all that’s done I turn it on and it’s idling weird I drive off and hit it after 5 minutes and bam limp mode! Pedal don’t work and wrench light comes on overdrive light flashes engine light on. I turn off and on again they go away I drive back home and tried the relearn procedure I saw on YouTube for ford throttle bodies and didn’t do jack. Car runs and drives just idles rough and dies randomly and if I hit 4k rpm it’ll have wrench light pop up and I gotta turn off and back on to drive, also overdrive light flashes. Help!!!!!!! Please!!!!
Limp mode after throttle body was taken off!!!
- Thread starter Hennessy
- Start date
Dino Dino Bambino
I have a red car
You might want to make sure that the wiring harness connector to the TB actuator is good and tight.
As a general rule if the car was running fine before you worked on it and isn't running fine now, it's almost certainly something you've done that's caused the problem.
As a general rule if the car was running fine before you worked on it and isn't running fine now, it's almost certainly something you've done that's caused the problem.
I didn’t touch any screws I did open the throttle body linkage and spray some throttle body cleaner on it but it had a lot of sut so I didn’t do a deep clean or anything and I didn’t look at the connectors interior parts check plugged em back in, I’ll look at em all and see if I broke one or something.
No tune for the cai, but it’s the same one it had on previously just I replaced the tubing that broke.
Spray soapy water around the TB and manifold mating point. If it idles better it’s a vacuum leak and probably the O-ring is squashed.
If not, Back track on all the intake connection points to see is something is pinched or not secured. Clean out all elect connections with CRC electrical cleaner and make sure they snap together.
Just my .02 cents.
If not, Back track on all the intake connection points to see is something is pinched or not secured. Clean out all elect connections with CRC electrical cleaner and make sure they snap together.
Just my .02 cents.
How big is the new tubing? I remember reading something from a tuner a long time ago that any intake tubing bigger than 3-3.5inchs will throw the maf off which can give you no start and rough driving. The go-to intake (JLT3) is 4inch in diameter. Could check the voltage on the throttle body and adjust as needed as well as that can cause the same issues. The 3v is very sensitive to air flow. Can't remember what the voltage should be for the TB sorry and I'm not home to check my repair book.. surely google or youtube can answer that for you
Did you open the electronics on the TB? They are very finicky if you did.
I didn’t take any of the sensors apart just disco the snap on connectors and the 4 bolts for the throttle body. The intake is the steeda intake but it had it before just the tube broke so I replaced it. It worked fine just after I took the throttle body spacer off (I didn’t know it had one but it’s what broke the old cai tube by pushing it on radiator) and put the throttle body back on I did open the butterfly’s with my hand and they moved back so those looked functional at that time.
One time when I put my intake tube back on I didn't quite get it sealed properly on the bottom edge. The hose clamp tightened up normally so I didn't think nothing of it. It acted similar to the way yours is acting and it took me a while to figure it out but the rubber coupling between the intake tube and the TB had slipped off a bit.
What kinda throws me for a loop is the OD light flashing but that might just be a byproduct of the car running so poorly.
What kinda throws me for a loop is the OD light flashing but that might just be a byproduct of the car running so poorly.
DieHarder
Senior Member
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You mentioned you re-oiled the air filter. Did you unplug the MAF? If so, are you sure you plugged it back in?
Gladams
Member
Did you do a relearn after you disconnected the TB?
When you manually moved the throttle blade you probably damaged the tb motor. You need to pull it apart and check the internals. Probably stripped a gear.
Gladams
Member
Google, relearn procedure for ford. Its on YouTube from a ford mechanic.
I don't think it needs to relearn the TB. I've pulled mine off the car dozens of times and never had an issue with the programming. I think if you put a different one on it is not necessary either if you match voltages properly. But it can't hurt.
GlassTop09
Senior Member
Don't take this the wrong way.......but as for this statement......1.) if what you're implying is if you install a different TB from the 1 currently installed & the replacement is the exact same sized part, then this is correct since the replacement part's PTA\EA effective area hasn't changed thus no issue within the tune calibration.
But 2.) if you're implying that 1 can install a different TB from the 1 currently installed & the replacement part is either smaller or larger in size than the 1 being replaced, then this is incorrect & the physically smaller\larger TB needs to be properly recalibrated\updated in the tune calibration for the ECU to correctly make all predictive SD airmass calcs to accurately match up to the ECU reactive MAF airmass calcs that are generated off the smaller\larger TB's physical inner ID to butterfly blade OD effective area per every degree of TPS angle change from initial startup thru idle thru WOT. Then make sure that the TPS output voltages are within spec range (1.16v thru 1.23v) w\ TB powered up during KOEO.
If this isn't done, then the ECU airmass modeling between the ECU's predictive SD airmass calcs & ECU's reactive MAF airmass calcs will be off thus can cause a lot of tuning issues up to & including emissions.
This is the correct method if the replacement TB is smaller\larger than the 1 being replaced that is also accounted for in the tune.
I'm assuming that you meant #1 but IMHO your statement was too vague thus could be taken in the wrong context is why I responded here.
You'd be amazed at how many folks get this wrong..............up to & including a fair number of tuners.
FYI...........................
I was talking about replacing it with the same size stock TB. And I wasn’t talking about tuning. I was talking about calibrating/matching the voltage for the position sensor. Taking the TB on and off shouldn’t need a relearn procedure.
Well I did a leak test and when I sprayed propane around the throttle body where it went up in rpm I couldn’t do for too long because propane froze after 5 minutes but it definitely is sucking in air around the throttle body I’m pretty sure it’s where the intake and throttle body connect because where the cai went on it didn’t seem to bump rpm but when I put it between the throttle body and the engine cover it climbed up an all. No local stores got the gasket could I rtv it? Or gasket better to wait for. Just I gotta drive it slow to work and careful.
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