LT header install

swervo

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Hey guys, coming to you all for some good advise on installing a set of LTs on my 5.0. I'll be doing it in the garage with a jack and jack stands and a few friends. Any advice would be appreciated.
 

chuck@evoperform

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I would strongly recommend that if you have a lift available to use it. It is much easier to get to everything by supporting the engine with a pole jack and removing the k frame and motor mount brackets. I know this probably isn't what you would like to hear, but I do these kind of installs on a weekly basis.
 

Newman

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Will be doing mine on jack stands this sat. There will be 2 of us . So hopefully goes smoothly .
 

GeorgeInNePa

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I screwed around with mine on jack stands for a few hours then said "fuck it" and took the k member out.

Much easier, lots more room.
 

Konablue10Gt

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I like dropping the K member out as well.

Also be careful with the a/c line that blocks the nuts on #1 cylinder (pass front) primary tube. It will break if you try to bend it out of the way.

Oh yea one more thing, whuile the pass side header is out you might want to trim the a/c line stud that comes off of the lower frame rail. It is close to some of the headers and will cause a rattle if a primary is rubbing against it.

Good Luck!
 

b00stedgt

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Turning a flex head ratcheting wrench a quarter turn at a time gets old fast. Drop the k member. Much faster in the long run
 

r.barn

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Yep, there is a nice artcl write up in one of the zines that shows them dropping the k-member for header install. 2hrs of taking k-member on and off = all the room you need to knock out the rest of the swap in about 30 mins. with ease
 

GeorgeInNePa

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I like dropping the K member out as well.

Also be careful with the a/c line that blocks the nuts on #1 cylinder (pass front) primary tube. It will break if you try to bend it out of the way.

Oh yea one more thing, whuile the pass side header is out you might want to trim the a/c line stud that comes off of the lower frame rail. It is close to some of the headers and will cause a rattle if a primary is rubbing against it.

Good Luck!

That tube/hose assembly costs $38 at your local Ford Dealer.

Know how I know that?

;)
 

b00stedgt

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Yep, there is a nice artcl write up in one of the zines that shows them dropping the k-member for header install. 2hrs of taking k-member on and off = all the room you need to knock out the rest of the swap in about 30 mins. with ease
And you can get a torque wrench in there. I don't trust GAT (good and tight)
 

swervo

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Thanks for the replys guys. I really didnt want to take the Kmember off, did that before on jackstands by myself on my old mach. Not really fun, but if it's the easiest I might do that.

And you can get a torque wrench in there. I don't trust GAT (good and tight)

You don't like German torque? Gudentite? :p
 

GeorgeInNePa

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Thanks for the replys guys. I really didnt want to take the Kmember off, did that before on jackstands by myself on my old mach. Not really fun, but if it's the easiest I might do that.



You don't like German torque? Gudentite? :p

I did mine by myself and it comes off easier than it goes on. ;)

I used a trans jack and that helped a bit.
 

chuck@evoperform

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Yep, there is a nice artcl write up in one of the zines that shows them dropping the k-member for header install. 2hrs of taking k-member on and off = all the room you need to knock out the rest of the swap in about 30 mins. with ease


That article is probably Fred's Grabber Blue car that we did here last year :naughty1:
 

Wharf Rat

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A lot of directions leave out removing the battery tray. Only 2 bolts and opens up the passenger side nicely.

What's the k-member drop entail? Been thinking about doing that this time.

I did the longtubes on my 2007 on jackstands (w/out K-member removal) and it wasn't the end of the world, really. But yeah, turning a racheting wrench 1/4 turn at a time does suck. Also was scared shitless about cross threading the head with a manifold bolt that wasn't oriented right.
 

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