Marc S build version 6.0

Marc s

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This what the valvetrain and almost 1" of lift looks like. Also, you can see the valve springs oilers inside the valve covers. This helps keep the valve springs cool because the high speed opening and closing creates a lot of heat. It has 7/16 pushrods and 9/16 head studs. This indicate that this was a super speedway engine. Tomorrow, I am going to do a compression test, a leak down test, and check the main and rod bearings. If everything checks out ok, I will only rebuild the heads. Due to the rocker arms not being backed off, I'm sure that the valve springs are not up to spec. At the same time, I can put the heads on the flow bench and check them.

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908ssp

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Are the valve springs steel? We used titanium valve springs in our Can-Am motors they lasted much longer than equivalent steel springs. Are you going to run it at the same HP level as it was built for? As a Super Speedway motor it would have been run with a restrictor plate did they build the motors any differently because of that?
 

Marc s

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Are the valve springs steel? We used titanium valve springs in our Can-Am motors they lasted much longer than equivalent steel springs. Are you going to run it at the same HP level as it was built for? As a Super Speedway motor it would have been run with a restrictor plate did they build the motors any differently because of that?

I can't answer the spring question. I will call Yates today and ask them what they recommend. Being that I will be running a much larger carb, Yates feels that the engine will make a little more HP that what they made in the Cup car. The only thing different in the restrictor plate engine is the intake manifold, spacer and small Holley carb. The one thing that I need to consider is the intake manifold was designed for a restrictor plate and may not be the best intake for me. There may be better intakes avaiable for my combination that will make more HP. Also, since Cup engines run a flat tappet cam, I will probably switch to a roller cam. This will be another question that I will run by the Yates engine shop.
 

stkjock

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Marc

Considering the work you have to do to "freshen" the motor and change out the cam and springs, it was still more cost effective than to just build it from scratch?
 

Marc s

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Marc

Considering the work you have to do to "freshen" the motor and change out the cam and springs, it was still more cost effective than to just build it from scratch?

No, new the billet cranks are $4,500.00, the Lentz rods are $3,500.00, the titanium wrist pins are $2,800.00, pistons are $ 2,200.00, dry sump is $2,500.00, 3 disc clutch is $2,200.00, heads are $4,000.00, block is $2,000.00, rocker arms are $2,200, Pushrods cam lifters are $1,500. Then you have the front drive, alternator, water pump, fuel pump, and machine work. Starting from scratch this engine would be around $40,000.
 

Marc s

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I did a compression and leakdown test last night. One of the cylinders was a little low on compression so I tore the engine down. Taking it over to the machine shop today so I can freshen the short block and flow bench test the heads.


You can see the knife edging on the crank counter weights. As it turns out, this engine has the Carrilo billet rods and CARR/Carrilio bolts. It also has the Bryant billet crank. The heads have 2.18" intake valves. I measured the lift while the engine was together, It was .848 on the intake and .875 on the exhaust. You can also see the roller cam bearings and lifter valley oil standoffs which prevent oil from running down onto the camshaft and crankshaft.


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Drkmrkiv

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Nice setup! I live in Charlotte and mooresville is about 15 mins from my condo. I'll have to check them out sometime soon.
 

Marc s

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Parts started showing up today. Heading down to the machine shop to see if the block is ready for me to pick up.

Custom built 950CFM road race carb.
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Ignition system.

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Fuel tank sump.

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