Mastering the art of the S197 3 link suspension (sixty foot)

08stang

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thats kinda what i was beginning to notice suspension has always been a area that i hadn't bothered to learn much about and therefore its my achilles heel looks like its time to read up.
 

BMR Tech

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I can only assume Sharad is talking about handling, hard braking into a corner.

There are several situations in handling, where the relo brackets may not be optimal. That is an easy fix though. Don't run the arm too low in the mount, or just place the arm in the stock location when road racing. Win win. Drag race, road race, either one can be done without removing the brackets from the car.

I am a firm believer that a parallel LCA is the best for road racing. When the car is at the optimal ride height, the relo brackets are the best way to correct the LCA angle.
 

08stang

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good info ^^ all i know is that my car has some serious traction issues right now and im kinda grasping at straws trying to figure out what i can do to improve it.
 

Bud

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1.51 60ft

JPC's (eibach) rear springs surprised me, they lowered the rear nicely and it still sticks hard:

QA1 SA rears set 10 clicks from soft, stock fronts
JPC Rear drag springs, Cobrajet front springs
J&M poly LCA w/ steeda relocation brackets
Steeda adjustable poly upper
Truetrac
TRZ panhard bar and brace
3.15 gears
275/60/15 hoosier drag radials
Circle D 3200/3400 stall
TRZ antiroll bar
 

Sharad

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UPR's 2010 GT cuts 1.35 60-foot times on drag radials with street suspension and no relo brackets.

- Shocks - QA1 adjustable
- Rear springs - UPR Drag Springs
- Lower control arms - UPR Pro Street
- Upper control arm - UPR Pro Street w/ UPR HD Mount
- posi - stock
- Pan hard bar - UPR Pro Street
- Pan hard bar support brace - UPR Pro Street
- Gear size - 3.73
- Brand/ tire size - 325/50-15 Hoosier Drag Radial
- Clutch or which converter at what stall? - Precision Industries 2400rpm
- Anti roll bar or which rear sway bar - stock

Full details in this issue of 2005-2013 Mustang Performance, on newsstands now.

IMG_1797.jpg
 

BMR Tech

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Sharad, when we cut the same on our 2011 with a 275 tire, and less power....with Relocation Brackets, can I have a cookie?
 

2DaDarkZide PR

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They are not a must, but many people swear by them. I dislike them because the benefit they offer comes with certain drawbacks.
With the angle you lose when lowered, (I lost very obvious angle on just a 1 inch drop), they are worth it to go in the low 1.9s.

The only draw back I found was it raising the rear again and you can feel the rear start to teeter over itself.
 

onebadgsx

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1.58-1.60 60', 2012 gt m6, n/a

- Shocks - stock front/lakewood 50/50 rear
- Rear springs - cobra jet spring all four corners
- Lower control arms - bmr fixed, with relo brackets on top hole
- Upper control arm - stock
- posi - torsen
- Pan hard bar - steeda adjustable
- Pan hard bar support brace - steeda
- Gear size - 4.10
- Brand/ tire size - mt et drag 28/10.5/15
- Clutch - exedy mach 500
- Anti roll bar or which rear sway bar - stock
 

Blackbird1084

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Best 60' 1.54 on mt 26" slicks, freedom racing uca for lowered cars, freedom racing panhard rod/brace, umi relo brackets, edelbrock lcas, eBay 1.5" lowering springs, and the balls to spray outta the hole on a 5k rpm dump. That is also with stock 3.55 gears, stock clutch, stock Posi, and stock shocks.
 

2DaDarkZide PR

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I can only assume Sharad is talking about handling, hard braking into a corner.

There are several situations in handling, where the relo brackets may not be optimal. That is an easy fix though. Don't run the arm too low in the mount, or just place the arm in the stock location when road racing. Win win. Drag race, road race, either one can be done without removing the brackets from the car.

I am a firm believer that a parallel LCA is the best for road racing. When the car is at the optimal ride height, the relo brackets are the best way to correct the LCA angle.

I missed this post the first time. Yes, the car immediately feels different but as you said, I have it on the first hole which is a slight angle and it seems to cure most of the rear roll over
 

Sharad

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Sharad, when we cut the same on our 2011 with a 275 tire, and less power....with Relocation Brackets, can I have a cookie?

Forget the cookie, I'll buy the wings at Hooters. PRI in December?

Still, if both of our cars run a 1.35 but yours is on relo brackets and ours is not, then that shows they are not necessary.

Actually, I was thinking about this all weekend. I think the ideal setup is a sheetmetal axle housing with multiple holes in the [heavily reinforced] LCA mounts, and a custom **above the floor** UCA mount with multiple mounting holes. Basically, imagine four link brackets, but with only three control arms.

I've seen a setup like this on an SN95 which was converted to three link, but obviously, it wouldn't be practical to sell. However, Dave D could definitely fabricate it!
 

2DaDarkZide PR

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Is the UPr car lowered? Also, both of you are on slicks right? Because on a street tires, LCA angle would help tremendously on a tire otherwise not apt to get great traction
 

Sharad

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Is the UPr car lowered? Also, both of you are on slicks right? Because on a street tires, LCA angle would help tremendously on a tire otherwise not apt to get great traction

Our car is on UPR Drag Springs. I don't have before and after measurements, but it's about a 3/4" drop. It's on Hoosier drag radials.

2010parade.jpg



^^parade photo... please excuse all of the lettering.
 

Ssiptang

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With the angle you lose when lowered, (I lost very obvious angle on just a 1 inch drop), they are worth it to go in the low 1.9s.

The only draw back I found was it raising the rear again and you can feel the rear start to teeter over itself.

Did reloc bracket really raise the rear? I can't see how they affect the rear height.
 

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