Mastering the art of the S197 3 link suspension (sixty foot)

[Taxman]

lindertw and Taxman, what rpm do you guys leave the line at?

edited my post to include that I'm leaving at 4000-4500 rpm

 

[BMR Tech]

07 stick car

1.64 60' leaving at 4000-4500 rpm

- Shocks... Racecraft N20
- Rear springs ... FRPP K springs
- Lower control arms... J&M
- Upper control arm... stock
- posi... stock
- Pan hard bar... J&M adjustable
- Pan hard bar support brace... none
- Gear size... 3:73
- Brand/ tire size... 28x15 M&H Racemaster slicks
- Clutch... Exedy Mach 500
- Anti roll bar or which rear sway bar... stock


Looking for advice on what I can do to get that lower. I've got a one-piece drive shaft already installed, and I've got an adjustable upper control arm and mount from BMR that I need to install. Would like some good advice on springs and shocks.

For your particular car, in order:

Install the UCA/Mount (UCA upper hole)
LCA Relocation Brackets (BMR- Middle Hole)
Strange Struts up front

6500-6700 Launch - < 1.64

I don't know how much power a "full bolt on 3V" makes because I've never had one. I have a coyote engine which is stock for now. I just want to launch the hell out of it and see how fast I can make it go. If a person could only budget money for one pair of shocks at a time which would you get first, front or rear?

They make 320 rwhp +/- 30HP

On a car that is fairly stock-ish....the front and rears will be pretty equal. If the car squats/bounces out back....then I'd say a set of double adjustables would be the first step, then a set of fronts after you get your other items upgraded/tweaked.

 

[Taxman]

I've got the BMR relocation brackets already. My shocks are ok?

 

[BMR Tech]

I've got the BMR relocation brackets already. My shocks are ok?

Well, I personally would install something else....but, for your combo, assuming the LCA Relos are on....I think the front struts loosened up would help that car get out of the hole nice on a slick and a 6500+ launch.

 

[Taxman]

Well, I personally would install something else....but, for your combo, assuming the LCA Relos are on....I think the front struts loosened up would help that car get out of the hole nice on a slick and a 6500+ launch.

What's a good set up (shocks & struts) that are good for double duty, street and strip?

 

[BMR Tech]

My personal recommendation, for "bang for the buck" is:

Front: Strange S6009 Single Adjustable
Rear: Viking B226 Double Adjustable

 

[Taxman]

My personal recommendation, for "bang for the buck" is:

Front: Strange S6009 Single Adjustable
Rear: Viking B226 Double Adjustable

Do you offer these? If so, send me a PM with a quote. I tried to PM you so I wouldn't clutter the thread any more, but you're not allowed to receive any more messages for some reason.

 

[Falkinman]

My personal recommendation, for "bang for the buck" is:

Front: Strange S6009 Single Adjustable
Rear: Viking B226 Double Adjustable

Are those part numbers the same for my 2012 GT? What do those cost?

 

[Mike K]

What do people think of strange fronts with like a 175lb spring for dd and track duties?

 

[Falkinman]

I'll tell ya what, all of the suspension mods add up and start working. I just added the CJ springs and FSB delete. I was able to launch at 6000 RPM today and bust out some 1.6 and 1.7 sixty foot times and 12.1 ET's with an all stock motor. All while yanking the front wheels in every pass. I now see where adjustable shocks will be helpful.

 

[Wicked97]

What do people think of strange fronts with like a 175lb spring for dd and track duties?

You would have to run the strange double adjustable units to run a coil over type spring.

Depending on the weight of the car 175 should be a pretty good start. If you have a power adder or added weight to the nose a 225 might be a better spring.

I'll tell ya what, all of the suspension mods add up and start working. I just added the CJ springs and FSB delete. I was able to launch at 6000 RPM today and bust out some 1.6 and 1.7 sixty foot times and 12.1 ET's with an all stock motor. All while yanking the front wheels in every pass. I now see where adjustable shocks will be helpful.

I would look in to the Viking rear double adjustable shocks you car really start to fine tune your suspension. turn those 1.7-1.6 to a 1.5-1.4

http://www.jpcracing.com/viking-05-13-mustang-double-adjustable-shock/

 

[Wicked97]

anyone knows if someone is going 7's on a 3 link suspension ?

US

 

[Falkinman]

I would look in to the Viking rear double adjustable shocks you car really start to fine tune your suspension. turn those 1.7-1.6 to a 1.5-1.4

http://www.jpcracing.com/viking-05-13-mustang-double-adjustable-shock/

That's what I'm talkin about! Those will be on the list for the spring.

 

[Bobby]

That what I will be putting on the car after we get the new twin kit squared away.

 

[rodfarva]

US

Shelbymark has gone 7.81 on the 3-link

 

[silverpoison]

shelbymark has a 4 link!

 

[silverpoison]

US

awesome man1 that car is moving!

 

[SonicGT]

On a 3 link. Been 7.0@200 TRZ rear set up.

 

[mr. anderson]

UPDATE:

- Shocks - Koni Yellows front's softest setting, rears- half turn from full soft.
- Rear springs - FRPP "P" springs
- Lower control arms- J&M fixed
- Upper control arm - UPR adj
- posi - stock
- Pan hard bar - UPR adj
- Pan hard bar support brace - stock
- Gear size - 3.73 stock
- Brand/ tire size - MT et drag 28 x 10S- 15's @ 13.5 psi
- Clutch or which converter at what stall? - Mcleod RXT twin disk, Shaftmasters single piece DS
- Anti roll bar or which rear sway bar - stock brembo package front sway bar removed

cars weight it 3,740 with me in it and a half tank of gas.

60' - 1.58 - launching at 4,200-4,500 and rolling into it hard off the line. getting better, I feel I can get a 1.4 out of this.

 

[rodfarva]

shelbymark has a 4 link!

Pretty sure he is running Racecraft 3-link. Some of the mounting points have been moved.