Meguiar's nxt

[NastyStang113]

#21 and NXT (2.0s) are basically the same formula with VERY small changes. The #21 is obviously part of the professional line up so it's going to be a little bit better. NXT was based off #21 so they could push it into stores and market it well in a good looking bottle, etc. The same goes for #26 and Meguiars Gold Class, basically the same formulas with small changes.

#21 and NXT are a synthetic sealant 'wax' so keep in mind that they are going to be much better looking on lighter colored vehicles than on darker colored vehicles. A carnuba is the way to go with a dark colored vehicle to get that wet appearance. The synthetics tend to give a 'saran wrap' effect to the paint. On my car I use a synthetic sealant prior to my last step product which is a 100% carnuba product for the most protection and the best appearance.

I hope this helps.

 

[DKS]

#21 and NXT (2.0s) are basically the same formula with VERY small changes. The #21 is obviously part of the professional line up so it's going to be a little bit better. NXT was based off #21 so they could push it into stores and market it well in a good looking bottle, etc. The same goes for #26 and Meguiars Gold Class, basically the same formulas with small changes.

#21 and NXT are a synthetic sealant 'wax' so keep in mind that they are going to be much better looking on lighter colored vehicles than on darker colored vehicles. A carnuba is the way to go with a dark colored vehicle to get that wet appearance. The synthetics tend to give a 'saran wrap' effect to the paint. On my car I use a synthetic sealant prior to my last step product which is a 100% carnuba product for the most protection and the best appearance.

I hope this helps.

Funny, I was actually talking to Maguire's today about the exact same thing with the #21.

As far as using sealants on dark cars, I have to say, yes, sometimes they can be a pain and I only use BlackFire Wet Diamond on my black car. They require a lot of hand rubbing to get rid of the look Nasty is talking about with most of them. But there is a reason for that and a solution.

Really, Sealants should be removed differently than you do with a wax. People primarily remove a wax in small areas at a time and then move on after that area is free of wax, and they are done with that area.

I read an article about how most people have bad luck with sealants because they don't know how to properly remove them.

With a sealant you should work in a much larger area at a time and come back to areas even after the sealant is removed. Basically, you keep moving all over the panel and coming back to it as you work. Even coming back to a panel after you're "done" removing the sealant.

Reason is, a wax will dry and just come off. A sealant leaves behind a film as it is removed, then that film will dry. So, as you take off the initial layer, if you don't come back to that area and hit it again, you get the look Nasty is talking about. It's just a different method than removing wax and it really does make a difference.

I was mad as hell when I first got talked into using Wet Diamond until I learned how to remove it. Now I wouldn't live without it on a black car.

You're basically taking off a layer, letting what's left dry a little more, coming back to it and hand buffing it more, going to another area, and so on.

 

[NastyStang113]

Not trying to argue with you but that's not what I'm talking about. That's just missing spots. Do a full detail on your hood besides the sealant and wax application. Apply and remove (properly LOL) a sealant to half and a carnuba to the other half. It'll be very easy to see the difference that I'm talking about. The carnuba side will have a dripping wet appearance while the sealant side will have the saran wrap type appearance.

The most effective and used method for application and removal of sealants is to do the entire vehicle, allow the product to set up for the time specified by the product which could be 15 minutes to 60 minutes and than remove. A lot of people just apply and remove and that's not proper. Sealants typically need a cure time. It's also a good thing to note that you need to allow any wax or sealant a sufficient time to cure before adding a second coat. If you do it immediately you're wasting your time and product. Most products will need 12 hours to cure before another coat or product should be used.

 

[DKS]

I know what you're saying, but I'm not talking about just missing spots and going back over them. I'll try to find the article about it.

I totally agree, you need to let it dry properly and yes you have to let sealant cure before another coat as well.

But I use sealant all the time and since I started doing it the way I read about it's been a whole different world for me. I've seen exactly what you're talking about and I actually threw the bottle in my "tub of stuff I'll never use" until I read about this method of removal. I tried it and it worked great and has ever since.

Every pix I have of my car on this site is of it just with sealant on it and I think you can agree, the paint is mirror and there is no saran wrap look to my paint at all.

The proof is in the pudding, so to speak.

Now, as far as depth goes, no way can you get the depth out of just a sealant that you can out of a good wax, I totally agree with you on that.

 

[SteveP]

#21 and NXT (2.0s) are basically the same formula with VERY small changes. The #21 is obviously part of the professional line up so it's going to be a little bit better. NXT was based off #21 so they could push it into stores and market it well in a good looking bottle, etc. The same goes for #26 and Meguiars Gold Class, basically the same formulas with small changes.

#21 and NXT are a synthetic sealant 'wax' so keep in mind that they are going to be much better looking on lighter colored vehicles than on darker colored vehicles. A carnuba is the way to go with a dark colored vehicle to get that wet appearance. The synthetics tend to give a 'saran wrap' effect to the paint. On my car I use a synthetic sealant prior to my last step product which is a 100% carnuba product for the most protection and the best appearance.

I hope this helps.

I've seen it work just as good with dark color cars like mine. But everything you just said is really good information!

 

[DaGonz]

I actually started using the Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #21 Synthetic Sealant 2.0 and it's way better then the NXT. Prob the best wax I've worked with

Meg's #21 is my sealant of choice. I apply a coat of S100 Caranuaba over that and it makes my Mustang gleam!

I did the #21/S100 combo just before I went to Boothbay Harbor, Maine for a vacation.. Here's are a couple of pics of "Lauren Renee"...

 

[Wicked Pissah]

car looks great man, BRUINS all the way!, and dez, where is your shop located at?

 

[Wicked Pissah]

nvm got it on the website!