MGW Shifter v Hurst Shifter

[dark steed]

Another thing to consider are the motor mounts. I swapped to the Prothane mounts and while it didn’t completely fix the issue, it helped a lot. They basically limit the amount of flex by the engine without all the harshness of a solid mount.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Lime1Gt]

I was one of the first purchasers of the Blowfish bracket when they went into production. Had it in my car for 2 weeks before removing it. The increased vibration in the shifter handle was irritating and I still missed shifts at the dragstrip. Lucky for me there was still much more demand than supply for the Blowfish bracket and I was able to sell it easily.
/QUOTE]

The newer version has grommet isolators to reduce vibration.

 

[Mrjfk65]

Now that I've pretty much read every article I could on this topic, it would seem the Blowfish Bracket and or the CHE K Member brace are what solves this. There is simply too much collaborating testimony/information to back it up.


I’ve yet to install the MGW, but when I do, I promise to get back on here and honestly tell everyone whether it worked. But, I'm not holding my breath.

 

[mikek2111987]

My car came with a hurst, I like the short throw and very positive engagement feeling, but damn you have to push that thing hard into gears

 

[GlassTop09]

Now that I've pretty much read every article I could on this topic, it would seem the Blowfish Bracket and or the CHE K Member brace are what solves this. There is simply too much collaborating testimony/information to back it up.


I’ve yet to install the MGW, but when I do, I promise to get back on here and honestly tell everyone whether it worked. But, I'm not holding my breath.

I have the v2 Blowfish Remote Shifter Bracket installed on my TR3650 trans as well & can vouch for it resolving the missed shifts due to shaft bind from shifter flex from engine\trans movement. Initially installed it w\ the OEM shifter then replaced the OEM shifter w\ a Barton Short Throw Remote shifter later.

My car came with a hurst, I like the short throw and very positive engagement feeling, but damn you have to push that thing hard into gears

Yep this is a con of a typical short throw shifter but a sufficiently weighted shift knob will make gear engagements easier when used w\ a ST shifter.
I got 1 myself from Raceseng for my Barton (Topology which weighs 1.4 lbs) & it made a big difference IMHO in operation & feel (knob is hefty & I have large hands). Raceseng's stuff is high dollar but is some of the best quality you'll find available.

 

[ZGrand]

Really nice shifter knobs, but whew! they are expensive.

 

[GlassTop09]

Really nice shifter knobs, but whew! they are expensive.

Yes they are certainly expensive, but show me another aftermarket weighted shift knob that has the fit, feel & look of an OEM part that flows w\ the car's interior design but provides real weighted functionality as well when used w\ a short throw shifter (or the OEM shifter as well).
This particular Raceseng Topology weighted shift knob w\ OEM shaft thread adapter & shift boot retainer is specifically designed for the Ford 05-09 S197 platform by Raceseng.
The Delrin cover sleeve is what sets the Raceseng Ology Hybrid series apart from the rest as this sleeve makes this knob easily accessible w\ your hand during hot or cold climates...which is a big drawback of a typical weighted shift knob as they retain heat or cold due to their dense metal mass which can make them uncomfortable to handle.

Well worth the price to me.

 

[Mrjfk65]

Update, I finally installed the MGW shifter. Recall I previously had a Hurst Shifter in my car. My problem with the Hurst was that while shifting from 2-3rd gear at high RPM I was locked out of getting into 3rd gear. Likewise it sometimes locked me out of 3rd to 4th.


Recall that I had trepidations about whether the MGW would actually solve the problem in spite of the fact that a lot of folks on this thread (and others for that matter) had said the shifter was all that was needed to resolve the issue. My concern was that due to the fact that the MGW (like the Factory shifter and the Hurst) both mount to the body of the car (As opposed to the transmission) and my thought was how do you prevent the torque flexing the transmissions under a load at high RPM’s? My thought was that I would simply have to buy a Blowfish Bracket or CHE Torque limited to prevent that flex.


The MGW shifter solved all of my problems, I have zero issues getting the car to shift into ANY gear at any RPM. I even power shifted the car with no issues. This has made my car drivable again. If anyone is wondering whether this will work? It will.


I got to thinking why it works in spite of it not mounting to the transmission..


So, I’m not an engineer by any stretch of the imagination, but I think it’s two things:

1. The back of the MGW shifter is constructed of a thick solid billet material which is in turn mounted to the body of the car as opposed to the Hurst which was mounted to a polyurethane bushing to a thin piece of metal (Also mounted to the body). I believe this significantly prevents flex when the transmission is torqueing at high RPM.
   
   
2. The Spring load is much tighter in the MGW which vastly assists in the shift from 2-3.
   
   
3. The overall thickness of the MGW shifter prevents flex. (If you compare the HURST shifter side by side to the MGW this becomes very evident.)
   

Bottom line? If you have a Hurt shifter or a Factory Ford shifter and are experiencing lockout from 2-3, go ahead and get the MGW shifter before you do anything else.


I’ve read a lot of opinions on this topic that ranged from changing the transmission oil to replacing the clutch. While both of those options might be valid for more systemic daily transmission issues, I think both of these fixes ignores the fact that lockout is only occurring at high RPM’s, which renders both answers/solutions somewhat improbable.