Need guidance on my first build

[Tumble Nuts]

Hello all,

A couple years ago I posted a question about the best path to 400whp in my 3v. Since then my goals have changed a little.

For context I have a mostly stock 06 3v. It's an automatic (gay, I know). The only aftermarket parts on it are an SLP axle back exhaust and an SLP catted x-pipe. My goal is to take the car as far as I can on a $15k budget while maintaining enough reliability to daily drive it. I'd like to get around 500whp out of it if possible. From what I've gathered it seems like the easiest and most cost effective way to achieve this is with boost.

I'm curious as to what path you guys would recommend, which components absolutely need to be upgraded, and which ones can remain stock.

The most complicated thing I've done to my car since I bought it is oil changes, so I'm in over my head. Any all feedback is appreciated.

 

[Juice]

2007-2008 Ford Mustang GT Supercharger Systems | Vortech Superchargers

Increase the power on your 2007-2008 4.6L 3V Mustang GT from 300 to 462 and torque from 325 to 419 with 10psi of highly efficient Vortech supercharged boost pressure on an otherwise completely stock vehicle.

vortechsuperchargers.com

 

[JC SSP]

Simple question, how fast do you want to go and how much money $$$$ do you have to spend?

 

[Tumble Nuts]

$15k is the budget and I'd like to be fast enough to keep up with modern muscle

 

[StockishS197]

Dyno numbers don’t mean much, though generally 450rwhp/rwtq is the “safe” limit for reliability for 3vs. You will need boost or nitrous to get where. For boost, many “bolt on” centrifugal options, though nicer ones that require less modifications (e.g Procharger) are more expensive than others (Vortech). The only two TVS styles are available, which is a DOB kit, or the Edlebrock E-Force.

Any more than 450rwhp/torque, it’s a gambling game for the stock rods. There are plenty of examples over it, but there are also plenty of examples that bent rods too. Not sure what the stock limits are for the 5R55S, but I would plan to beef it up in budget, along with a nice torque converter.

All of that should be within your $15k budget, but just know with boost, you will find weak links in the entire driveline quickly, especially with the age and miles of these cars now.

That said, you don’t necessarily need 500rwhp to keep up with newer gen cars. These cars are fairly light, and even with a well planned, sorted bolt on, cam car making 350rwhp will be fun enough on the streets up to jail time speeds…just IMO.

 

[MrBhp]

Do you do your own work? On3 turbo kit and 4.10 gears will go a long way. You'll be well beyond your desired HP number with some money left over for good brakes. If you do the work yourself.

 

[MrBhp]

And yes, that transmission will become the weakest link. You can retro a 6r80 into the car and you'll be good. Except for the connecting rods. And when they let go it's generally a block windowing event. That being said....... I'm still on stock rods and run 15 lbs. of boost daily. I've had it as high as 20 something, not sure.

FYI: Turbo HP is much more forgiving than any type of driven supercharger.

 

[StockishS197]

And yes, that transmission will become the weakest link. You can retro a 6r80 into the car and you'll be good. Except for the connecting rods. And when they let go it's generally a block windowing event. That being said....... I'm still on stock rods and run 15 lbs. of boost daily. I've had it as high as 20 something, not sure.

FYI: Turbo HP is much more forgiving than any type of driven supercharger.

15-20PSI on stock rods? That seems reeaaaaaally high. Normally 7-9 PSI is the limit

 

[MrBhp]

15-20PSI on stock rods? That seems reeaaaaaally high. Normally 7-9 PSI is the limit

It is. However, that 7-9 is tossed out there as a generalization. For a PD, that's as far as I would go. A turbo is much more forgiving. I've ran 15 lbs. daily going on 3 years. I did it once for a money race. It didn't blow up. Ended up running best of 3. I took the first two. Didn't blow up. So I decided to just leave the setting there and keep an eye on fuel pressure and AFR. And I don't baby the car at all. It could blow up tomorrow, and I would be really bummed. FYI, I DO NOT RECOMMEND RUNNING 15 LBS ON YOUR CAR. LOL.

 

[Tumble Nuts]

Do you do your own work? On3 turbo kit and 4.10 gears will go a long way. You'll be well beyond your desired HP number with some money left over for good brakes. If you do the work yourself.

I've never done anything advanced but I have a good friend that'll help me navigate my way through all the labor.

Dyno numbers don’t mean much, though generally 450rwhp/rwtq is the “safe” limit for reliability for 3vs. You will need boost or nitrous to get where. For boost, many “bolt on” centrifugal options, though nicer ones that require less modifications (e.g Procharger) are more expensive than others (Vortech). The only two TVS styles are available, which is a DOB kit, or the Edlebrock E-Force.

Any more than 450rwhp/torque, it’s a gambling game for the stock rods. There are plenty of examples over it, but there are also plenty of examples that bent rods too. Not sure what the stock limits are for the 5R55S, but I would plan to beef it up in budget, along with a nice torque converter.

All of that should be within your $15k budget, but just know with boost, you will find weak links in the entire driveline quickly, especially with the age and miles of these cars now.

That said, you don’t necessarily need 500rwhp to keep up with newer gen cars. These cars are fairly light, and even with a well planned, sorted bolt on, cam car making 350rwhp will be fun enough on the streets up to jail time speeds…just IMO.

Here is the current parts list I have so far. Let me know if there's something I missed or if there's anything you'd consider redundant.

2007 GT500 duel pump fuel system
$1,420.00

Powerstop front and rear brake conversion kit + performance rear brake calipers
$1,445.16

Ford Performance aluminum one-piece drive shaft
$689.99

Ford 6R80 Transmission & Torque converter
$2,936.70

On3 single turbo kit + 1000cc injectors and low boost plugs
$2,958.00

Ford Performance assembled handling kit
$2,121.99

Ten factory 31-spline rear axle kit
$432.98

Ring and Pinion gear kit: 4.10 gear ratio
$358.98

This all totals out to a little over 12 grand but that's before tax and shipping

 

[AHaze]

If you're not planning to put aftermarket rods and pistons in it, the GT500 twin pump setup isn't necessary. I have a single 400 lph Walbro feeding my Vortech blown 3V with some headroom left over. I think they're around $100 and with some minor mods to the stock pump hanger, they drop right in.
I would also forget the Powerstop brake setup. The 14" Brembo replica upgrade can be done piecemeal for under $600.
Not sure what's involved in that 31 spline axle kit but these cars have fairly stout 31 spline axles stock. I haven't heard of too many people breaking stock axles with a stock bottom end 3V.
If you're really doing a 6R80 and a turbo, the 4.10s may also be unnecessary as the 6R has a super short first gear.

 

[Tumble Nuts]

If you're not planning to put aftermarket rods and pistons in it, the GT500 twin pump setup isn't necessary. I have a single 400 lph Walbro feeding my Vortech blown 3V with some headroom left over. I think they're around $100 and with some minor mods to the stock pump hanger, they drop right in.
I would also forget the Powerstop brake setup. The 14" Brembo replica upgrade can be done piecemeal for under $600.
Not sure what's involved in that 31 spline axle kit but these cars have fairly stout 31 spline axles stock. I haven't heard of too many people breaking stock axles with a stock bottom end 3V.
If you're really doing a 6R80 and a turbo, the 4.10s may also be unnecessary as the 6R has a super short first gear.

All great to know thanks G

 

[Tumble Nuts]

If you're not planning to put aftermarket rods and pistons in it, the GT500 twin pump setup isn't necessary. I have a single 400 lph Walbro feeding my Vortech blown 3V with some headroom left over. I think they're around $100 and with some minor mods to the stock pump hanger, they drop right in.
I would also forget the Powerstop brake setup. The 14" Brembo replica upgrade can be done piecemeal for under $600.
Not sure what's involved in that 31 spline axle kit but these cars have fairly stout 31 spline axles stock. I haven't heard of too many people breaking stock axles with a stock bottom end 3V.
If you're really doing a 6R80 and a turbo, the 4.10s may also be unnecessary as the 6R has a super short first gear.

Do you have the links to the walbro and brembo replicas?

 

[DieHarder]

I have one of the DOB supercharger manifold kits (over 5 years now) and nothing but praise for it. More important however is all of the information that's on the site. Worth your time to explore and learn.

Home - Department of Boost

Depaertment of Boost -- Cool Under Pressure

www.departmentofboost.com

 

[AHaze]

Do you have the links to the walbro and brembo replicas?

Check around for pricing but this is the pump I used:

Walbro Ti Automotive TIA400-2 F90000262 Fuel Pump 400LPH High Pressure (Universal)

Walbro Part Number: F90000262Type: Universal Intank Fuel PumpFuel: GasHorsepower: 500HP+Flow Rate: 400LPH

walbrofuelpumps.com

I see they also have a 525lph universal pump now. If you think you may ever want to run E85, it's probably worth checking if you can make it fit.

Walbro HELLCAT 525LPH F90000285 Fuel Pump - (Universal E85 Ethanol) Ultra High-Performance - TI Automotive

Walbro 525LPH - TI Automotive TCD470 Fuel PumpHighest flow in-tank brushed fuel pump from TI AutomotiveWalbro Part Number: F90000285 Hellcat + Install Kit 400-1168Horsepower: 900HP+ at 60PSI, naturally aspirated applicationsFlow Rate: 470LPH @ 40psi (120+ gph)Fuel: GAS & E85Caution: Extremely...

walbrofuelpumps.com

The 525 would likely require upgrading the fuel pump wiring but it's a good idea for any forced induction setup. This is on my to do list.

2005-10 Mustang Fuel Pump Wiring Upgrade (*UPDATED*)

An often forgotten (but most certainly not by us) part of the fuel system is the inadequate wiring the factory uses to supply power for the fuel pump in the return-less fuel systems. The deficiency here leads to underperforming pumps that run hot and reach cavitation sooner as they struggle to...

wireeverything.com

For the brakes, just order front calipers and rotors for a 2007-2012 GT500. They bolt right on. I got mine from Rockauto but all the chain parts stores sell the same "OE equivalent" replacement calipers. You can get them in bare aluminum or powder coated but they won't have the Brembo logo.
If you want the splash shields, I think you have to get them from Ford. I just left them off.
All the cars that came with these 14" front brakes used the same rear brakes you already have.

 

[Midlife Crises]

A PD BLower is an awful lot of fun. Torque right now! You would need rods and pistons. Do read the entire Department of Boost site.

 

[DieHarder]

Check around for pricing but this is the pump I used:

Walbro Ti Automotive TIA400-2 F90000262 Fuel Pump 400LPH High Pressure (Universal)

Walbro Part Number: F90000262Type: Universal Intank Fuel PumpFuel: GasHorsepower: 500HP+Flow Rate: 400LPH

walbrofuelpumps.com

I see they also have a 525lph universal pump now. If you think you may ever want to run E85, it's probably worth checking if you can make it fit.

Walbro HELLCAT 525LPH F90000285 Fuel Pump - (Universal E85 Ethanol) Ultra High-Performance - TI Automotive

Walbro 525LPH - TI Automotive TCD470 Fuel PumpHighest flow in-tank brushed fuel pump from TI AutomotiveWalbro Part Number: F90000285 Hellcat + Install Kit 400-1168Horsepower: 900HP+ at 60PSI, naturally aspirated applicationsFlow Rate: 470LPH @ 40psi (120+ gph)Fuel: GAS & E85Caution: Extremely...

walbrofuelpumps.com

The 525 would likely require upgrading the fuel pump wiring but it's a good idea for any forced induction setup. This is on my to do list.

2005-10 Mustang Fuel Pump Wiring Upgrade (*UPDATED*)

An often forgotten (but most certainly not by us) part of the fuel system is the inadequate wiring the factory uses to supply power for the fuel pump in the return-less fuel systems. The deficiency here leads to underperforming pumps that run hot and reach cavitation sooner as they struggle to...

wireeverything.com

For the brakes, just order front calipers and rotors for a 2007-2012 GT500. They bolt right on. I got mine from Rockauto but all the chain parts stores sell the same "OE equivalent" replacement calipers. You can get them in bare aluminum or powder coated but they won't have the Brembo logo.
If you want the splash shields, I think you have to get them from Ford. I just left them off.
All the cars that came with these 14" front brakes used the same rear brakes you already have.

You can get the Brembo logo stickers online from feebay in any color you want for just a few bucks.

 

[07 Boss]

The only words of advice that I can give is to build from the ground up. Tires, wheels, suspension, brakes(?), then driveline and chassis and then put the power to the motor. Adding 200 hp without building the rest of the car will just have you spinning your wheels, literally. Ground up is a tried and true building method and will give you the least amount of trouble and/or heartaches. Where I messed up with my car is not replacing the transmission before adding my blower. It was soon afterwards that I had to replace the stock 5r55s with a built one. That is going to be one of your weaker points with your build goals. Don't overlook it as it is just a matter of time.