New PB etown 4-6-14 after cams.
- Thread starter fdjizm
- Start date
next time mark the rim/tire with a white grease marker to see if the tire moves on the rim.
interesting note on adding a stripe to the tire to watch for wheel spin (link)
Many a crew chief including me puts a vertical stripe on the rear slick so he can watch "the Hook" I also often had it videoed so we could watch it later too. Every time the slick goes around spinning it costs about 1/10 of a second in lost et. In fact if it spun ten turns you lose a second. You learn to spend a good deal of your time playing with shocks , tire pressures , suspension bump stops and ride height trying to get this down to a minimum. The less experienced are resetting their timing or changing jets or something sexy totally oblivious to the real job at hand that gives extraordinary times , Extraordinary "bite" That is what it is for and how it is used.
typical comment from learning racers is "it didn't spin that much" Get them to add the stripe to the slick (or the old two color painted wheel) and you will hear shortly. "Man I didnt think it spun that much!" The stripe gives your eye a point of reference in relation to the track and a poor traction is no longer a guess but is obvious. Some cars actually can pick up a second with a good crew chief and little tricks like this and never touch the engine to get it.
I'm interested to see what my gopro captures tomorrow...
and some more nuggets (link):
Many a crew chief including me puts a vertical stripe on the rear slick so he can watch "the Hook" I also often had it videoed so we could watch it later too. Every time the slick goes around spinning it costs about 1/10 of a second in lost et. In fact if it spun ten turns you lose a second. You learn to spend a good deal of your time playing with shocks , tire pressures , suspension bump stops and ride height trying to get this down to a minimum. The less experienced are resetting their timing or changing jets or something sexy totally oblivious to the real job at hand that gives extraordinary times , Extraordinary "bite" That is what it is for and how it is used.
typical comment from learning racers is "it didn't spin that much" Get them to add the stripe to the slick (or the old two color painted wheel) and you will hear shortly. "Man I didnt think it spun that much!" The stripe gives your eye a point of reference in relation to the track and a poor traction is no longer a guess but is obvious. Some cars actually can pick up a second with a good crew chief and little tricks like this and never touch the engine to get it.
I'm interested to see what my gopro captures tomorrow...
and some more nuggets (link):
"This should be the sequence of events seen on the video. Right at launch the front should start to come up before any forward movement or the car.
The rear of the car with this added weight transferred from the rising front will lift very little but it should not go down (squat). An inch or two is normal and can be best seen by looking at the relationship between the top of the slicks and the rear fender lip.
This one or two inches of rise will indicate that the rear of the car is lifting and pushing harder on the tires while the front weight is being transferred (for every motion there is an equal and opposite motion).
If the front of the car does not rise first then the front shocks are too stiff or the rear shocks are not stiff enough.
If the rear of the car squats right away then the rear shocks are too loose.
I have found through slow motion video tape that if the rear shocks are too loose the rear tire actually bounces on the initial hit and will break loose almost right away. I stood next to the car pointing the camera right at the rear tire. It was amazing to watch. I kept on tightening the rear shocks until it stopped which was just below mid point of the adjustment. From all that I have seen the rear shocks should never be adjusted less that half way because of rear squat and tire bounce."
The rear of the car with this added weight transferred from the rising front will lift very little but it should not go down (squat). An inch or two is normal and can be best seen by looking at the relationship between the top of the slicks and the rear fender lip.
This one or two inches of rise will indicate that the rear of the car is lifting and pushing harder on the tires while the front weight is being transferred (for every motion there is an equal and opposite motion).
If the front of the car does not rise first then the front shocks are too stiff or the rear shocks are not stiff enough.
If the rear of the car squats right away then the rear shocks are too loose.
I have found through slow motion video tape that if the rear shocks are too loose the rear tire actually bounces on the initial hit and will break loose almost right away. I stood next to the car pointing the camera right at the rear tire. It was amazing to watch. I kept on tightening the rear shocks until it stopped which was just below mid point of the adjustment. From all that I have seen the rear shocks should never be adjusted less that half way because of rear squat and tire bounce."
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/\ that's also a good thing to do, but not I was referring too, I mean mark spot on the tire and on the wheel, to view if the tire moves on the wheel, not the tire spinning on the pavement.
it appears to me in the slo mo vid - the wheel spins faster than the tire, meaning the tire is slipping on the rim.
it appears to me in the slo mo vid - the wheel spins faster than the tire, meaning the tire is slipping on the rim.
yep, I plan to mark the tire/rim grease pen too!
Interesting stuff, I think the tire was likely spinning on the rim because of the low pressure.
I will mark it next time out, I've been comfortable with 15psi cold for a long time it's always done well for me.
I think the hard bounce is from too much A/S + low tire pressure, which should change some from taking off the brackets/
I want to put the brackets back on but I want to see what it does without the brackets and some A/S help from the upper control arm.
Next plan is putting the UCA in the upper hole and brackets back on, using the upper hole as well.
I'm not planning on buying new shocks/springs, if this was an all out drag car I would of course but just trying to get my best out of my current suspension setup for now.
I still drive it A WHOLE LOT and not trying to make it uncomfortable or shitty riding for my once every few months drag racing lol.
I would be extremely happy with a low 1.6x sixty foot!
I will mark it next time out, I've been comfortable with 15psi cold for a long time it's always done well for me.
I think the hard bounce is from too much A/S + low tire pressure, which should change some from taking off the brackets/
I want to put the brackets back on but I want to see what it does without the brackets and some A/S help from the upper control arm.
Next plan is putting the UCA in the upper hole and brackets back on, using the upper hole as well.
I'm not planning on buying new shocks/springs, if this was an all out drag car I would of course but just trying to get my best out of my current suspension setup for now.
I still drive it A WHOLE LOT and not trying to make it uncomfortable or shitty riding for my once every few months drag racing lol.
I would be extremely happy with a low 1.6x sixty foot!
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FWIW - money aside
rear adjustable shocks can make a big difference in your ride quality (for the better) when you adjust them
rear adjustable shocks can make a big difference in your ride quality (for the better) when you adjust them
BruceH
BBB Big Bore Boss 322
I saw the new time in your sig a few days ago. That's fantastic! Do you have any other plans for the motor or drivetrain?
Alright, I manned up and did the upper control arm last night.
It's in the upper hole now, I think I cross threaded one of the mount bolts but I just went ahead with it every turn was like 100ft-lbs, but got it seated and probably never taking it out again ever so this is my final upper control arm position LOL
And this morning I put the brackets back on, and into the upper hole closest to the oem mount.
I think I aged 10 years between last night and this morning I am in pain like a mofo, not a spring chicken anymore
It's in the upper hole now, I think I cross threaded one of the mount bolts but I just went ahead with it every turn was like 100ft-lbs, but got it seated and probably never taking it out again ever so this is my final upper control arm position LOL
And this morning I put the brackets back on, and into the upper hole closest to the oem mount.
I think I aged 10 years between last night and this morning I am in pain like a mofo, not a spring chicken anymore
skwerl
tree hugger
Alright, I manned up and did the upper control arm last night.
It's in the upper hole now, I think I cross threaded one of the mount bolts but I just went ahead with it every turn was like 100ft-lbs, but got it seated and probably never taking it out again ever so this is my final upper control arm position LOL
And this morning I put the brackets back on, and into the upper hole closest to the oem mount.
I think I aged 10 years between last night and this morning I am in pain like a mofo, not a spring chicken anymore
Quit your whining!
Ssiptang
forum member
Just came back from the track. I ran [email protected]
Exact same time as pre-cam run.
I knew 12.1 wasn't gonna happen LOL
I need a torque converter. Launching @ idle sucks with cams.
Exact same time as pre-cam run.
I knew 12.1 wasn't gonna happen LOL
I need a torque converter. Launching @ idle sucks with cams.
Same time as before cams, not even mph went up? How was the weather?
What tune are you running? what are the 60 foots looking like?
Definitely a torque converter!
I'm 31 I can complain!
What tune are you running? what are the 60 foots looking like?
Definitely a torque converter!
I'm 31 I can complain!
Ssiptang
forum member
Weather was little humid and hot. But to my excuse my pre-cam was on neg DA weather lol also with k springs and stock shocks which gave me 1.8 60s. Sportlines totally killed my 60s. Best I can do was 2.0
I'm runnning on bama 93. If all things were equal, I probably got some decent gain.
Yea that will do you in for sure man!
I'm sure you got something out of it, not exactly best time racing season lol.
Wait till it gets cooler out I'm sure you will be surprised!, also the cams like to be shifted higher, what is your tune shifting at? I'd say 6700 at minimum.
I'm sure you got something out of it, not exactly best time racing season lol.
Wait till it gets cooler out I'm sure you will be surprised!, also the cams like to be shifted higher, what is your tune shifting at? I'd say 6700 at minimum.
Ssiptang
forum member
Shifting at whatever bama set it at LOL. Probably around 6200.
It pulls hard up top tho.
Once its past 3000, It felt like
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