New Suspension. Stiff steering.

Discussion in '2005+ Mustang GT 4.6L Tech' started by TylerM, Jun 11, 2019.

  1. TylerM

    TylerM Junior Member

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    Alright so I am at a loss. I recently installed Koni Str.t Struts and Shocks, Ford K-Springs, GT500 strut mounts, and FRPP Front Lower Control arms. Since the install my steering has been exceptionally stiff around within 1-2" either way of the steering wheel being upright. This includes taking the wheel all the way in either direction. Also the car will want to stay tracking in the direction I am turning. Everything is torqued and lubed properly. I am at a bit of a loss.

    The issue did not begin until after the install. I bought the vehicle after it had already been lowered. The previous owner(s) had installed Eibach pro springs over the factory shocks and struts as well as installing all new control arms in the rear. Now on to the interesting note.

    I took the vehicle to have it aligned and the shop told me that I did not have enough adjustment. The car was sitting at over -2° after the install. On the old setup, I had new tires mounted and the car aligned no problem. I changed the ride height .3" at most and it took the camber over -2°.

    I have MM CC plates on the way along with a bumpsteer kit. To help the camber issue.

    I have not one idea left on how the steering got to this point (stiffness). I am not sure how such a minimal change in ride height resulted in such a drastic change in camber (in my limited knowledge and what I have read). The manual says steering gear may be out of adjustment. To install the lower control arms, I unbolted the steering gear and shifted it forward 2-3" in order to get to the pinch bolts on the LCA. Tie rod ends looked decent and zero play in them.

    I have researched this issue and have not found anything conclusive. I do not suspect the PS unit nor the rack to be bad, I also left those relatively intact. The vehicle was raised for about two days in the front for the install (school, work, family). Any ideas?

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  2. dark steed

    dark steed Resident noob

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    Turn the strut mounts 180 degrees. I lowered mine 1.5” with FRPP K springs and turned the mounts opposite and needed no alignment (80k miles since).

    This may not help with your stiff steering but it will help with your alignment issues
     
  3. TylerM

    TylerM Junior Member

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    I had read about doing that but for most owners it appeared that turning them was only good for about .5° which is not enough for where I am at, unless you were out of spec as far as I am?

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  4. dark steed

    dark steed Resident noob

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    I have put about 170,000 miles on the car and have never had to have it aligned and I’ve never had a wear issue.


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  5. TylerM

    TylerM Junior Member

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    Ok. I will see how the CC plates affect since they have already been ordered.

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  6. 07 Boss

    07 Boss forum member

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    Sounds like something is outta whack and binding up. Did you torque everything with the suspension loaded?
     
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  7. TylerM

    TylerM Junior Member

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    I torqued everything with the front end on jackstands.

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  8. dark steed

    dark steed Resident noob

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    I believe that may be the issue. Put the fronts on ramps; the rear axle is ok on jack stands. Basically, you want the suspension loaded when you torque it down.
    The front was unloaded and something apparently bound up


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  9. TylerM

    TylerM Junior Member

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    Would loading each side with a Jack work as well?

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  10. dark steed

    dark steed Resident noob

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    Were the front jackstands on the frame or on the suspension? If the front suspension has full weight on it, that will work.
    Tires on ramps seems a lot more stable than jacks on lower control arms, but if it looks safe, go for it


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  11. TylerM

    TylerM Junior Member

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    Ok, and then retorque the strut nuts and tie rod ends? Or the whole setup again?

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  12. dark steed

    dark steed Resident noob

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    I’d say only what you torqued when you installed the lowering kit. The rest should be good.


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  13. TylerM

    TylerM Junior Member

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    That is what I thought. Otherwise it would be difficult to get at some of the bolts. I will redo the struts, strut nut, tie rod end, strut bolts if I can reach them. The stabilizer-strut link may be a tad more difficult.

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  14. 1950StangJump$

    1950StangJump$ forum member

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    I'm about to install Pedders coil overs on mine, as well as a BMR sway bar. On the back, I am doing the Pedders shocks/springs, along with BMR UCA, LCAs, and relocation brackets.

    What are you guys saying needs to be torqued with the suspension loaded? BMR tells me that with poly bushings, it does NOT have to be loaded because the inserts won't cause binding.

    And, no where have I read when that strut install requires loading before torqueing as you guys are instructing the OP. I've watching a bunch of install videos also.
     
  15. 07 Boss

    07 Boss forum member

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    Whenever I do front end work on jack stands, or a 2-post for that matter, I've always used a jack and piece of wood and jacked up the lower control arm until it took the weight of the car, and then torqued everything down. This method allows the front wheel to be off and access to end-links and such is pretty easy.
     
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  16. bl817

    bl817 Member

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    as long as your toe readings are in spec, you shouldn't have to worry too much about the camber, tires should wear just fine even with negative camber (which is good for twisty racing btw). struts are good to tighten unloaded, both upper mount and spindle bolts. only ones you need to have weight when tightening are the lower control arms both, front and back. I installed poly bushings all around and made sure car was on ramps when fully tightened. side note, I turned my strut mounts 180* when I installed them and now I think that's where my front end noise is coming from. makes a hell of a noise turning side to side now. I have the old set im going to swap out sometime soon to see if that helps, they will be going arrows out. good luck
     
  17. 1950StangJump$

    1950StangJump$ forum member

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    You sure there has to be load for the LCAs when using poly bushings? BMR says no because they have metal inserts that keep the connection from binding ....
     
  18. Bingo

    Bingo Because street car S197 Team Member

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    It takes no extra time to torque under load, so why not just do it the right way? The poly part of the bushing comes in contact with the mount and, when torqued, it will not want to move. It will cause clunking at minimum, and eventually premature bushing wear.
     
  19. TylerM

    TylerM Junior Member

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    Bumpsteer kit and CC plates came in today. I will be installing both next week. I am thinking about taking the car to another shop to have the alignment checked afterward. Hopefully getting those in and tackling the LCA's with the torque wrench again afterward.

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  20. 1950StangJump$

    1950StangJump$ forum member

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    Okay, that’s fine .... except that if it’s the “right way,” then the same has to be applied to the UCA, panhard, and sway.