If you saw smoke, you didn't have enough product. You should put 4-5 dabs of product on the pad, then spritz it with pad conditioner to make it a little wet and increase the product's work time. You should be working on a small area that is MAX 2' x 2'.
For water spots, DO NOT go directly to V32 unless you have to. V32 should only be used for heavily-damaged paint. Remember, you can always take more clear coat off with a less-abrasive product/pad, but you cannot add it back.
Start with V34 and a blue or white pad. Then step up to V36 & '38 to finish with blue or black pads. You can then go to a glaze with a black pad or a combo glaze/sealant like Black Light with a black pad, and use a slippery sealant with a red pad to finish. For a final pass, use Hybrid V07 to remove any leftover dried product and leave a mirror finish.
To keep pollen from sticking as easily, use a good sealant. CG's Jet Seal is all the rage, but I've gotten good results with their cheaper M-seal.
Always clay-bar the surface before you do anything with a DA, obviously.
Chemical Guys have a TON of videos; that's how I learned.
For water spots, DO NOT go directly to V32 unless you have to. V32 should only be used for heavily-damaged paint. Remember, you can always take more clear coat off with a less-abrasive product/pad, but you cannot add it back.
Start with V34 and a blue or white pad. Then step up to V36 & '38 to finish with blue or black pads. You can then go to a glaze with a black pad or a combo glaze/sealant like Black Light with a black pad, and use a slippery sealant with a red pad to finish. For a final pass, use Hybrid V07 to remove any leftover dried product and leave a mirror finish.
To keep pollen from sticking as easily, use a good sealant. CG's Jet Seal is all the rage, but I've gotten good results with their cheaper M-seal.
Always clay-bar the surface before you do anything with a DA, obviously.
Chemical Guys have a TON of videos; that's how I learned.
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