opinions on CC plates needed

[speedfreak1000]

im finally getting around to doing the suspension so i'll be posting in this section some now, as im wanting to start doing some weekend autocrossing.

my question is would the GT500 strut plates work or should i just step up to the J&M CC plates to get my car back inline after i lower it? i'd probably order them through american muscle unless someone knows a place to get them alittle cheaper but still has great service.

i just ordered koni yellows from strano, panhard bar and relocation bracket from Tad at freedom racing and vogtland springs from MR.WHO on here. also just dropped it off to have the 4.10's installed

Thanks, David

 

[Sam Strano]

Well, I'd recommend the super well liked and durable MM plates ($329) myself if you get plates.

I'd skip the GT500 mounts unless yours are busted they aren't really any better than what you have stock (the rubber is a little stiffer, it's not the rubber that fails).

You will want camber adjustment if you are going to be doing autox and track days. If you don't you will tear up the outside of your front tires--and you make the car understeer more too.

 

[Justin_H]

J&M plates only adjust camber. I have a set on my car and they appear to be well constructed. The adjustment range is a little less than I expected, but adequate for my needs and I haven't seen a set of S197 MM plates to see if they offer more range. I had MM plates on my 95 and they were nice.

Justin

 

[Mr. WHO]

With the springs you just bought, your going to need Caster and Camber plates. At a min your going to want camber, which you will not get with the GT500. Go with MM (heard nothing but good things) or my personal favorite, Vorshlags which is what I used.

 

[speedfreak1000]

just ordered the MM plates. i wanna do it right the first time. thanks for the input.

David

 

[Sky Render]

Well, I'd recommend the super well liked and durable MM plates ($329) myself if you get plates.

I'd skip the GT500 mounts unless yours are busted they aren't really any better than what you have stock (the rubber is a little stiffer, it's not the rubber that fails).

You will want camber adjustment if you are going to be doing autox and track days. If you don't you will tear up the outside of your front tires--and you make the car understeer more too.

+1

Maximum Motorsports plates are awesome.

 

[speedfreak1000]

When i get all this in and take it to have to lined up should they go to factory specs or is there another degree setting i should tell them im after for handling? If the question doesnt make sense i'll try to explain it better. When i had my 81 camaro that i was going to autocross i was throwing suspension parts at it, Mary Pozzi told me when i got it to the point i could adjust caster/camber to let her know and she'd tell me some setups that worked for her.

 

[SoundGuyDave]

For handling, go for max negative camber, zero toe, or even a touch of toe out. Note that for DD purposes, this will accelerate inside tire wear and can make the car "darty" at speed and under braking.

Alignment angles have been discussed to death... a quick search may help you out.

 

[Norm Peterson]

Are you trying to find a "one size fits all" camber setting and forget about it or are you willing to swap between a street setting and a rather more aggressive competition setting? Seriously.


Norm

 

[speedfreak1000]

basically a set it and forget it for now. the scca website i've been on for louisville only meet about once a month, if i wound up getting into it more seriously then i would start thinking about swapping settings back and forth. after i get all this delivered and on i'm gonna start looking at swaybars, bumpsteer kits ect.

 

[Norm Peterson]

It sort of comes down to how aggressive your normal cornering is, else like Dave mentioned you'll wear the insides because you aren't leaning it over onto the outsides hard enough or often enough to beat them up and balance the wear.

I think zero toe or just a very tiny bit 'in' for what's almost entirely street driving.

Ford's camber range goes all the way out to -1.5°, and a few of us are running street camber a quarter of a degree or so past that without getting uneven wear. But you'll have to consider your own driving and where it falls between "always mild/moderate" and "never met a corner that you didn't accept the challenge from". Be honest with yourself; this is not a "some's good, more's better, too much is just enough" kind of thing.


Norm

 

[speedfreak1000]

thanks for the input Norm. i'll take all that into consideration when i go to get it lined up.

BTW the konis just came in. Strano has some fast shipping.

 

[speedfreak1000]

finally got it all installed.