Picking up 2012 V6 Auto on thursday...tech question in last paragraph

[timfoster405]

I need a daily driver... and priced a Taurus SEL w/ an out the door price of $28500.


I kept looking over at a Kona blue V6 Mustang and finally asked how much out the door?


After some wrangling... $24000 w/ the rear parking sensors...what a waste...

Anyway the car is stripped w/ only 3.31 gears and rear sensors and exterior stuff which only seems to amount to a spoiler. Car has 14 miles on OD.


Anyway, the car is a blast to drive... I think it is faster than my 07 GT when it was stock... it RIDES AND HANDLES MUCH BETTER THAN THE 07 GT.


My plans are an American Muscle CAI/tune from BAMA. No mufflers at this point. I was wondering what break-in period I shoul use...I will drive about 250 miles per week...I don't know if I can wait until 1000 miles...(one month)... maybe a long road trip.


I just hope my 07 does not get jealous...

 

[Midnight11]

1000-2000 miles is what i was told on another site

 

[Greg Hazlett]

Did you see Lightblade had LT headers and CAI for the V6's for sale in the classifieds for a smoking price?

 

[stkjock]

break in........... HA!

drive it like you stole it and mod away I say

 

[VTXFrank]

break in........... HA!

drive it like you stole it and mod away I say

I'm of the same opinion. Put 500 miles on it and then go to town modding. During that 500 miles, drive it like you plan to drive it for the life of the car. I've been doing this for the last 20 years and I've not had engine or driveline issues, ever. Plus, you should see how they run these engines at the factory. Multiple WOT runs.

BTW, how the hell is this tech?

 

[timfoster405]

I know I am stretching the tech aspect of this...

Cool... 500 to 1000 miles. I may put the CAI on right away and hold off on the Bama's tune for 500 miles.

thanks

 

[popeye]

A CAI is useless without a tune and may actually cause the car to run worse as it is not tuned for the extra air. If anyone advertises that it is a no tune CAI, then it's not worth a shit.

 

[JeremyH]

A CAI is useless without a tune and may actually cause the car to run worse as it is not tuned for the extra air. If anyone advertises that it is a no tune CAI, then it's not worth a shit.

WTF are you talking about?

They have proven gains with no tune on these 2011 + v6's.

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55992

 

[RetroGT2006]

break in........... HA!

drive it like you stole it and mod away I say

Thats what i did, the day i got it i went through all the gears till redline.. 70K miles later, still running like a raped ape. Correct me if im wrong, but all motors are run/broken in somewhat before you even get them.. So drive it like you want to =)

 

[TheRookie65]

Dude a tune will make huge change in the way that auto shifts...... Trust me..... Fun to drive now a BLAST after a CAI and a tune!!!!!! Oh I had 875 miles then added the items in my sig......

 

[timfoster405]

sold... getting a tune & airaid CAI from American Muscle.

 

[Midnight11]

A CAI is useless without a tune and may actually cause the car to run worse as it is not tuned for the extra air. If anyone advertises that it is a no tune CAI, then it's not worth a shit.

haha yea my jlt hasnt done anything to mine without a tune... wrong...

def. throttle response, more hp, and better mpgs

 

[69Mach1-409]

A CAI is useless without a tune and may actually cause the car to run worse as it is not tuned for the extra air. If anyone advertises that it is a no tune CAI, then it's not worth a shit.

Maybe on pre 2011 (4.0L V6) but not the newer motors (3.7L V6).

 

[iRoush]

It was about 1,100 miles before I did a BAMA tune through AM with the C&L intake. What a difference! Feels like a new car! Enjoy!!!

 

[timfoster405]

I got it home in my driveway. I am really happy with the purchase. I drove it off the lot with 17 miles on the OD. The 'deluxe' interior is really plain compared to my 07 GT Premium... but who cares...I can put nail in the coffin for my 01 Merc Sable.

Time to get the CAI and tune. I don't plan on mufflers at this point... according to Chris Rose... they are not worth much... maybe 3-5 rwhp.

Also plan to get a roush vent gage pod and get the aeroforce scan gauge... and that's it for a good long while.

thanks for all the information!!

 

[popeye]

Wow i had no Idea they were making that kind of numbers,,,no tune/cai

 

[Mountain]

Like these boys say, wait about 500 miles or so before you start throwing parts at it.

Drive it like you've had it for 6 months. Getting a load on those rings (some hard acceleration) during the first houndred or so of miles will be good for the engine, seating the rings nicely into the cylinder walls. Some good engine-braking decels are good too.

Change your oil and filter at about 1000 miles and then continue on to regular intervals.

 

[timfoster405]

Here is it...

See below...

 

[RickG9]

Like these boys say, wait about 500 miles or so before you start throwing parts at it.

Drive it like you've had it for 6 months. Getting a load on those rings (some hard acceleration) during the first houndred or so of miles will be good for the engine, seating the rings nicely into the cylinder walls. Some good engine-braking decels are good too.

Change your oil and filter at about 1000 miles and then continue on to regular intervals.

IMO, changing the oil at 1000 miles is a waste of money. As someone else pointed out, engines are run in at the factory these days. I'll concede that total ring seating may not be complete when the car arrives at the dealership, but I believe the rings are 90% there going out the factory door and that really has nothing to do with changing the oil. The reason for an early oil change stems from the presence of assembly lube and minute metal shavings trapped by that lube during the break-in period, however that applies to pre-roller cam engines. The metal shavings from breaking in a flat tappet cam if left floating in the lube system could potentially get lodged in the soft metal layer of the bearings or lightly score the cylinder walls, nothing catastrophic as the shavings were nearly microscopic, but enough to potentially affect the friction and efficiency of the engine. Additionally, assembly lube used for non-roller cams is much thicker than oil and increases the viscosity of the oil as the oil washes it out of the bearings and cam journals. That could potentially starve the upper end for oil as the pump struggles to force oil thickened by the lube through the small passages that feed the top end. This was another reason not leaning on a fresh engine too hard. This was all based on precautionary measures to avoid a worst case scenario, in most cases the engines were broken in enough at the factory that even if no special care was taken the engine in a new car would still be fine even before roller cams were widely used.

Having said that, modern engines have roller cams and roller cam followers. They do not leave the factory with assembly lube still in them because there is no need for that kind of assembly lube to be used these days. The little bit of lube used for assembling the bearings is 1) not the same thick paste it used to be so it won't hurt anything leaving it in the engine and 2) doesn't carry any shavings or anything harmful to the longevity of the engine since there aren't any friction surfaces like a cam lobe against a tappet to create them. With a factory service interval of 7500 miles, changing the oil at 1000 is only throwing out oil that has a lot of miles left in it.

The only recommendation I would make for the 1st oil change in a new car is to not put synthetic in until you've logged about 10,000 miles to make absolutely sure the rings have fully seated. It's probably fine to use syn before then, but because of the better lubricating qualities of syn oil it can prevent the rings from seating so I prefer to wait before using syn just to safe.