Some observations.
1. Like many have said - don't just throw money and parts at the car. Get a real alignment, scan in the sheet, post it up here. Then ditch the 2" lowering springs - that is causing problems.
2. NOBODY READING THIS POST NEEDS A BUMP STEER KIT. There, I said it. That is for cars lowered a TREMENDOUS amount, more than the Bolt On Billy lowering springs, more than almost any coilover kit. This is something people buy simply because shops sell these kits. The car above had no bump steer correction even lowered 3" on proper coilovers (AST, Moton, and MCS kits were run on this car) - 2" lower on the dampers/springs, 1" lower on tire height. It didn't have any bump steer. That is mostly internet tall tales.
3. Nitto tires are garbage.
GARBAGE. Nobody serious in competition uses Nitto or Toyo tires. The latter is required in some Spec classes because Toyo BOUGHT INTO THOSE SERIES. I say this as an idiot who also bought and tried to compete on Nitto tires (above) and having wasted money on Toyo tires in the past, too.
These two brands tend to have terrible performance, terrible wear, and are not competitive in any form of timed Motorsport. They are popular because: A) they make some funky sizes B) Are cheap C) Drifters D) Hard parkers.
4. Lowering any S197
TWO INCHES on OEM length struts and shocks introduces a lot of BAD things, namely - RUNNING OUT OF BUMP TRAVEL. This is due to the fact that the lowering amount automatically reduces suspension travel in the BUMP direction when you leave the shock and strut lengths stock.
This is why all coilover struts/shocks are SHORTER than the OEM lengths (typically by 1 to 2 inches). This is no accident. The shorter length allows for more bump travel, while it will give you less total suspension travel. We have helped shock makers from 4 companies design new shock/strut setups for over 20 different chassis (the 6th gen Camaro strut from MCS above was 1" shorter than stock, but with the bottom of the strut housing pushed below the stock brackets we gained that all back) - this is literally what I do for a living.
No bolt-on part will fix this issue on the OPs car, short of tossing all of that FRPP stuff in the trash and starting over with properly designed suspension.
I am honestly not trying to pick on the OP, but he did ask this in the corner carvers / racing tech sub-form. Which means you get answers from racers and suspension designers... like me.
Cheers!