Too Much Lean? 2010 GT

vxr500

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So I have a 2010 GT trackpack, that has a few Boss 302 bits here and there that include; near new take off springs, rear sway bar, and brake lines. I’ve also added Koni orange str struts/shocks, poly front sway bar bushings, a Shelby rear shock brace, and run 285/255-19 tires. I like to call it my “Middle Management 281”. I’m working on decals.

Anyway, I don’t track the car, but I do enjoy some spirited driving on curvy back roads once in a while. During such, I’ve noticed on steeper downhill fast sweeping turns I get a lot of lean. Like my car is suddenly an 83 Grand Marquis. Is this just a function of physics? Is the weight just transferring to the front, leaving the back end light on its feet? Or is something not right with the car?
 

AHaze

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Fast, downhill, presumably off throttle. Any chance there's a bit of reverse banking to the road as well? It's a worst case scenario for what you feel inside the car.
Bring someone with you to get a low angle picture from the front of the car as you drive through that corner then do the same on another corner where it feels flatter to you.
 

vxr500

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Yeah, off throttle. I’m not sure about the banking, but I do believe the pavement is “crowned” in that area.

Don’t get me wrong, the car is no go cart~amazing handler otherwise. It’s just very noticeable on this particular section of road.
 

GlassTop09

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that has a few Boss 302 bits here and there that include; near new take off springs, rear sway bar, and brake lines
Since you already have all that, consider getting the Boss 302 front sway bar (BR3Z-5482-A) as well to fully match up w\ the Boss 302 take-off springs & rear sway bar (assuming this rear sway bar you have is the 24mm std Track Pack bar). This might correct what you're experiencing now.
 

vxr500

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Since you already have all that, consider getting the Boss 302 front sway bar (BR3Z-5482-A) as well to fully match up w\ the Boss 302 take-off springs & rear sway bar (assuming this rear sway bar you have is the 24mm std Track Pack bar). This might correct what you're experiencing now.

I’m pretty sure that front bar is the same as the one I have in my 10. The Boss rear bar is 25mm which replaced my factory 24mm bar.
 

Pentalab

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How fast are you going ? With the road crowned, that alone is not doing you any favors. Going downhill, unloads the back end..and loads the front end. About the only real fix will be stiffer springs + shocks.
Wider front tires, and more negative camber would also help the handling a bunch.
 

vxr500

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How fast are you going ? With the road crowned, that alone is not doing you any favors. Going downhill, unloads the back end..and loads the front end. About the only real fix will be stiffer springs + shocks.
Wider front tires, and more negative camber would also help the handling a bunch.

That’s kind of what I figured. I’m moving at a pretty good pace 50-60mph. That plus the road is most likely the culprit. The rear is becoming “unsprung”.

I was thinking of going 285s on the front since I have 9.5 width wheels. I was just afraid of tramlining, rub, vague steering feel, etc.

As far as stiffer shocks/struts, I have a bad lower back and live in northern nj. The roads are not the greatest, which is why I went with more street friendly setup.
 

Midlife Crises

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Keeping the struts, dampers and springs you have and adding a matched set of adjustable sway-bars could help dial in the the cornering with making the general ride stiffer. I am very happy with the Strano sport adjustable bars I have been running for several years.
 

BlueTrk06

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To vxr500: does 1mm in sway bar size make that much of a difference? I’m asking because I’m thinking of upgrading my suspension. Thanks
 

Pentalab

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If you have the OEM front sway bar on a 2010 GT, you lost it right there.
I put the entire Roush suspension kit on my 2010 GT years ago. I think the Roush rear sway bar is 26 or 27 mm. I think the Front Roush sway bar is 37 or 38mm. https://www.roushperformance.com/pa...ategory/mustang-suspension-kit-2005-2010.html

I also added the Steeda adjustable front STB over the engine..and also the steeda adjustable camber setup..dialed up to max negative camber. Below the engine is the oem A arm brace (which actually ties the rear of the K frame together)....then the BMR A arm brace (which actually does tie the A arms together). Then the pair of steeda front corner braces, that are aprx 14" long CM tubes, and attach to the Fromnt Roush sway bar.

At back end is a steeda adjustable REAR CM tube brace in the trunk, between the shock towers..and welded in. Below at rear end is Whiteline watts link, BMR rear tunnel brace, DSS-DS, eaton tru-trac LSD....and a pair of steeda triangular CM subframe braces ( bolted and welded in)....then a pair of steeda jacking rails, one down each side.

Nitto 285-40-18 front tires on 18 x 10" wide rims. Rears are MPSS, 305-35-19 on 19 x 10" wide rims.

Ok, drive as fast as you want, flying around downhill corners.

In your case, at the very least, install a bigger diam FRONT sway bar. A bigger diam front sway bar will reduce the leaning you are experiencing..... without having to use super stiff front springs.
 

vxr500

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Sounds like your car is set up to be pretty stiff for the track. I was more or less trying to create a mild boss 302 setup on a budget for the street that didn’t alter ride quality too much.

I may try a stiffer front bar down the road. I did add poly bushings to the existing bar, but that didn’t seem to make much of a difference. I know staggering the tires like I did created a little more understeer.
 

BlueTrk06

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Maybe will be helpful. Found this info to answer my question a couple responses ago.
Bar stiffness increases quadradically as a function of the diameter (d^4) so the 19mm bar is about 24% stiffer than the 18mm bar, and the 20mm bar is about 52% stiffer than the 18mm and 23% stiffer than the 19mm.
 

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