Planning For Forged Interal Build @ Fastlane, Help With Questions:

dysan

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All of the internals on my 3650 trans are stock except for converting to the 26 spline input shaft. I would suggest having that done and you should be good. My trans has nearly 120k miles on it now and I'm around the 500rwtq number now launching it pretty hard at the track.
 

recordbreaker5

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i would say bad mistake on putting a stage 1 spec in there...because you are going to keep climbing in power and you are going to need a better clutch than that? why not a spec 3? and I would upgrade the trans asap. there might be some people out there that make a 26 spline custom input shaft, not many though.
 

dysan

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I've seen too many issues with the 3 reported. If going spec I'd say the 3+. I think it's the fact that the 3 is a puck clutch and the 3+ is full faced.
 

2to3threE

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i would say bad mistake on putting a stage 1 spec in there...because you are going to keep climbing in power and you are going to need a better clutch than that? why not a spec 3? and I would upgrade the trans asap. there might be some people out there that make a 26 spline custom input shaft, not many though.

what can i do to upgrade the trans?

I've seen too many issues with the 3 reported. If going spec I'd say the 3+. I think it's the fact that the 3 is a puck clutch and the 3+ is full faced.


i like the organic clutch, isnt it good? what about a 2? should i get a lightweight flywheel or a steel one?
 

dysan

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If you plan on drag racing you would want the steel flywheel to keep the inertia going for the launch and between shifts, if you're just street and road racing then the aluminum.

The 10 spline spec clutch ratings are

Stage 1:335, Stage 2:395, 2+:440, 3:500, 3+:565, 4:500, 5:645

The 26 spline ratings:

1:510, 2:599, 2+:669, 3:760, 3+:850, 4:760, 5:1008

Now these are at the flywheel ratings so if you are shooting for high 500's at the rear wheels you'll need something that is rated at least 15-20% higher due to drivetrain losses. So if you go for 580rwtq, you would want something rated to handle at least 696 tq at the flywheel.
 

Rasmus

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I'm rather satisfied with my 3+ an aluminuim flywheel. It took longer than advertised to break it in, but it's all good now.
 

2to3threE

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I'm rather satisfied with my 3+ an aluminuim flywheel. It took longer than advertised to break it in, but it's all good now.


so i need a 26 spline input shaft #2, and a #4 spec clutch and flywheel?

right now its stock and i dont think there is any slippage, or at least i dont think so...
 

2to3threE

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do you plan to race the car at the track with slicks?


i am building it and getting it tuned for reliability and power, i want to drive it daily and it to be smooth like it is now, but i will take it to the track occasionaly.

but when i do take it to the track i dont want it to be weak, i want and all around car.

but if your asking if its going to be a track car, and if i am going to get on it at the track every week, definately NO.

i may go to the track 1 time every 3 or 4 months...if that sometimes less..
 

Rasmus

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I know this is semi off-topic, but hell..

but they can be dick heads to deal with. But not in the sense of you get screwed out of money or anything they are just pompass asses and not very personable. [...] But then again I haven't dealt with them personally with my own stuff.

I've always found them to be straight up, honest, and wanting to do - and doing - the right thing. They've gone the proverbial extra mile for me on more than one occasion. Hell, they've probably done a marathon for me by now.

ray is one of the techs there, and he dont seem to like talkin much, and kinda dry personality. but he is cool.

I think Ray's one of the few, who can talk more than me. Tell him you like Iron Maiden, then see what happens.
 

2to3threE

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I know this is semi off-topic, but hell..



I've always found them to be straight up, honest, and wanting to do - and doing - the right thing. They've gone the proverbial extra mile for me on more than one occasion. Hell, they've probably done a marathon for me by now.



I think Ray's one of the few, who can talk more than me. Tell him you like Iron Maiden, then see what happens.


lol ray talks but he seems tire and wore out sometimes and will say hi but he keeps the chatter short.

caleb will sit down and converse with me, so will taylor.
 

2to3threE

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same for me, I'm pleased with my 3+ as well

i felt a 3+ today, hard as shit, i like my pedal soft, thats why i love organic. although it seems like its slipping a tiny tiny bit between shifts. i have a stock one now tho.

quick question, does it mean my belt is slipping if on the inside of my hood there is some belt dust or film?

if so can i tale my 76mm plastic pulley off and replace with the 90mm stock pulley to tighten everything up more?
 

2to3threE

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also when i do my forged engine build i could i run a 2.75 pulley or is that too much even for forged internals? is 6-rib enough as long as i get the right sized belt and its tight?

also whats is that water pump pulley part number everyone is talking about? will that help out?
 

tmcolegr

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I am running a 2.75" 6 rib pulley with forged internals.

V10 water pump pulley part# is F7UZ-8509-AA.
 

2to3threE

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I am running a 2.75" 6 rib pulley with forged internals.

V10 water pump pulley part# is F7UZ-8509-AA.


how much RWHP does it put out? what rpms is your build safe to? and what about for tensioner?

also does a bigger water pump pulley mean the water pump will spin slower or have any ill effects?
 

usafimj

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Running high boost I'd go with an 8-rib kit from BGG or the 10-rib kit if you got the coin
 

2to3threE

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Running high boost I'd go with an 8-rib kit from BGG or the 10-rib kit if you got the coin


where can i buy the 8 rib for the saleen kit? will running a 2.87 pulley or 3.0 pulley on forged bottom end be reliable like 3.4 pulley on a stock bottom end?

will gas milage still stay the same in the 2500 rpm partial throttle range?
 

2to3threE

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when i search this part number = F7UZ-8509-AA

there is a pulley it lists for 4.6, and 5.4 and all these different applications, which one do i need?
 

tmcolegr

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how much RWHP does it put out? what rpms is your build safe to? and what about for tensioner?



also does a bigger water pump pulley mean the water pump will spin slower or have any ill effects?
  • Don't know about the RWHP - just finished the build. Haven't had the vehicle to the dyno yet as I'm now upgrading the rear axle.
  • If I remember correctly the rev limiter is set to 6,800 RPM
  • I'm running a Thump_rrr tensioner with a 76mm stamped steel idler pulley
  • Yes the larger water pump pulley means the water pump will turn slower. To be more specific: Stock “GT” W/P pulley (F6TZ-8509-AA) is 5.082” diameter – 15.957” circumference. W/P speed is reduced 7.9% with a 5.5” V10 W/P (F7UZ-8509-AA) pulley. No there will not be any ill effects.
 

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