problem after cam install

Wicked One

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Ran fine but rough. Got the check engine.

Got one code of p0012 a- bank retard. switched the vct sensor that was reccomended by using the search feature.

After that now i get a code of p0016 camshaft position correlation. p0012 is gone.

What the hell is that?? Did a link jump?

Thanks.
 

iwaxmyjimmy

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Ran fine but rough. Got the check engine.

Got one code of p0012 a- bank retard. switched the vct sensor that was reccomended by using the search feature.

After that now i get a code of p0016 camshaft position correlation. p0012 is gone.

What the hell is that?? Did a link jump?

Thanks.


Yeah your gonna have to pull the front cover off, valve covers off, and re-time the engine. Its really not that bad to do. Leave the radiator in, use a paint pen to make ever thing like you should. One thing that sucks is you need the hold down for the tensioner. Its not like the old 2v motors where you could use a pin (I use the pins for the hose clamps on the vacuum hose recall on the 04-up F150s). these have one that is like a c-clip per-say. If you have any problems PM your email address and I'll send all kinds of glorious info.
 

Wicked One

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I read that one over and over. I am going out to start pulling the front cover. Thanks guys, I will keep all informed.
 

Wicked One

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Ok. All good. I didn't remove the front cover, I took a gamble by comparison. Here is what I did. Not saying it will work everytime, but I got lucky.

I pulled the valve covers off, checked location of crank pulley. Once I got it were the Haynes said to have it for complete timing (notch at 12 O'clock and keyway at 10 O'clock). I knew the drivers side was good, so I took my angle finder tool and measured the angle from the head through the center bolt to the "r" mark. Transfered that angle onto the passenger side and saw that I was 1 tooth off.

Pulled off the cam gear, moved one tooth installed NEW cam bolt and reassembled.

Crossed fingers and fired the bitch up....... No problem, perfect, no codes and running smooth.


Thanks guys for all the help. The 127300 cams are not radical, but you can tell it's not stock.
 

JeremyH

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Nice fix! Glad its up and running, Love my 127300 cams, subtle idle and stock like driveability and nice power gains.

What do you think happened that it skipped a tooth? did you do the install them by yourself? Did you use a wedge?

I have done the swap twice succesfuly with help of course, wouldnt want to try it by myself. Actually installing some BBR stage 1's and hotrods today for 2 forum members over at gregs this afternoon! :)
 

2k05gt

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Yeah your gonna have to pull the front cover off, valve covers off, and re-time the engine. Its really not that bad to do. Leave the radiator in, use a paint pen to make ever thing like you should. One thing that sucks is you need the hold down for the tensioner. Its not like the old 2v motors where you could use a pin (I use the pins for the hose clamps on the vacuum hose recall on the 04-up F150s). these have one that is like a c-clip per-say. If you have any problems PM your email address and I'll send all kinds of glorious info.


I use a peice of aluminum and a wire tie to hold the tensioner down.
IMG_0369.jpg


IMG_0370.jpg
 
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Wicked One

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I did the install myself. I had the wedge in nice and tight. When I went to remove one of the springs, my shoulder caught the edge of the tool. I was able to see it still in there but half on, wiggled it and pop, wedge fell off the chain. I was holding the chain tight with my other hand as I put the wedge back in, but I guess it still moved a little bit.

Glad it worked out though. I am going to have to cut down the wedge handle. It is about 3' long.

Gotta get some vids up, I am diggin' the sound.
 

JeremyH

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I have a vid of these cams on my car with the kooks longtubes in the pics/vid section as well, just search comp cams.
 

JeremyH

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I logged onto my account and it said the file is corrupted so i guess it shit the bed, sorry!
 
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