Project 67mm build for a redneck

[jeffie on juice]

Well i have finally got rid of the ZEX set up, had way to many issue on the bottle and just kind of wanted something different then what everyone has around town.

So i purchased a HP 67mm turbo with supporting mods including
TIAL 38mm Wastegate
60lb injectors
Kenne bell boost
Ceramic Coated doing a wrinkle black ( dropping it off monday for this )
Ford Racing A/C Delete
GT500 fuel pump
3:73 gears ( can't find my 3:55 so deal with it )
MSD 2 step
Home made HALO ring for the inner cooler
Hallman Manual Boost control ( RED )
Metco High Flow Fuel Rails with Crossover
SOS gauge cluster( wife won't let me install them where the a/c controls are)
preadtor MAFIA
FRPP manifold
FRPP throttle body

SO here i go had the car towed to work so i could have my guys remove the long tubes and weld on some new BMR parts i got. So the project is going pretty smooth beside the whole oil pan fuck up on my part drilled the pan pretty much right where a bolt has to go, so i grinned the head down on the bolt so it will clean. But i do have some questions

!!!!!!!!!!!!! If anyone has ideas or tips please feel free to pm me or make a comment i always up for anything to help my project

And Blow By Racing with be doing the tuning of the car

#1 the oil return line from the tube is like 1/2 but the nipple i got for the oil pan is oil a 3/8 is that going to cause i problem ???? with oil being resisted going into the pan ?

#2 what spark plugs should i be running and the gap?

#3 what should i wrapped on the exhaust

#4 what blow off valve do u guys run

#5 do you guys still run with mufflers on the car?
( its florida so i can leave them off )

#6 what gauges are u guys running?

#7 what catch can u running

^^ for the carbon hood set up

 

[chuck@evoperform]

Ditch the MSD 2 step.

Oil return needs to be as open and unrestricted as possible.

 

[Vashthe3rd]

2: I run HT0's gapped at .28. Any plug will do though, just get one that's one heat range colder
3: Nothing needs to be wrapped around the exhaust, unless you're talking about the turbo, I use a simple heat shield.
4: Any BOV will work, if you're using the HP kit you should get their BOV I'd imagine, I think it's a SSQV, not sure though, heard there were problems with that kit
5: No cats, and a 3" Magnaflow catback, running no mufflers will make that car far too loud to sound good. Raspy too.
6: I use a Eboost2 controller in my car for boost, then fuel and oil pressure. I need a wideband.

 

[Dex]

Wideband Air Fuel and a boost gauge are necessary IMO. Is this the HP Kit? If you don't have mufflers it will be super loud.

 

[2mchtoy]

You need to run at least a -10 for the return, I found out the hard way and,it was starting to back up intothe turbo. Plugs, I run brisk vr14s. Blow off valve go with a 38. Use 2x50 header wrap for the the hot side piping. You will need 2 rolls. Boost gauge,wide band,and,fuel and,I run an oil gauge also.

 

[MLC40]

Ditch the MSD 2 step.

Oil return needs to be as open and unrestricted as possible.

Why ditch the MSD 2-Step?

 

[chuck@evoperform]

Have found they tend to fail somehow and cause issues. If you want/need a 2 step, use the N2MB WOT box

 

[MLC40]

Thanks, I will keep an eye on mine.

Have found they tend to fail somehow and cause issues. If you want/need a 2 step, use the N2MB WOT box

 

[Kuro!]

Get a wideband asap.

Also, look into a better boost controller. HKS EVC6 or bust.

 

[jeffie on juice]

get a wideband asap.

Also, look into a better boost controller. Hks evc6 or bust.

i have many friends running those boost controls without a issue at 25-40psi on evos and subies

and it will pretty much always be set on 11.5 psi
yes i will be doing the wideband just don't know where to weld the bung at any help with that

 

[Kuro!]

22" inches from the head on the drivers side.

 

[ayabrego]

I am subscribing to this!! Good luck on the build! Hopefully this pushes me in the right direction.

 

[jeffie on juice]

22" inches from the head on the drivers side.

with the turbo does it go on the downpipe?????

Or before the turbo ?????


I am so lost with turbos

but i did get all my stainless steel lines made at work and they look pretty and only cost 20 bucks

 

[AbdullaGT500]

In the downpipe directly after the turbo

 

[s8v4o]

In the downpipe directly after the turbo

"Directly" after the turbo can cause premature sensor failure. It's best to be at least 18-24 inches after the turbo. If you want to be right after the turbo it's best to use a heatsink for the sensor.

 

[05stroker]

22" inches from the head on the drivers side.

Why the drivers side ?

 

[rford426]

Sub'd

 

[jeffie on juice]

Went with a aem wide band, and boost gauge
and welding the sensor 10 in away from the turbo

 

[jeffie on juice]

got my AEM true boost gauge WTF it is so hard to use i am so lost

 

[Kuro!]

What are your questions about it? It's a pretty cool gauge man...