Ready to work on my suspension

bossmanpena

Team OverDrive
Joined
Jan 26, 2012
Posts
452
Reaction score
0
Location
New Jersey
Springs?
Caster Camber Plates?
Strut Tower Braces?
Control Arms?
Subframe connectors and braces?
Ball join and bumpsteer kits?
shocks and struts?
sway bars and anti roll kits?
suspension bushing?
roll bars/cages?
coil over kits?
panhard bars?

what does all this stuff do? how effective is it all? should i bother upgrading all of it and will i feel a difference? thanks to all those who care in advance
 

Fuerte

forum member
Joined
Sep 27, 2011
Posts
694
Reaction score
0
The question you should ask first is what are you looking to use it for. Tracking, road racing, looks etc then what is your budget?

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2
 

bossmanpena

Team OverDrive
Joined
Jan 26, 2012
Posts
452
Reaction score
0
Location
New Jersey
budget is im not spending crazy amounts on just single parts. im not going to be tracking or anything just a daily driver that i want to feel amazing i want my turns tighter better stronger overall just a ride improvement..
 

WereWolf

forum member
Joined
Jan 11, 2011
Posts
111
Reaction score
0
budget is im not spending crazy amounts on just single parts. im not going to be tracking or anything just a daily driver that i want to feel amazing i want my turns tighter better stronger overall just a ride improvement..
i would say shock/ struts and springs + the pan hard kit
but i have no suspension work so if anyone wants to disagree go for it lol
thats just where i would start
 

13726548

forum member
Joined
Jun 27, 2009
Posts
332
Reaction score
0
Location
GA
Springs?
coil over kits?
panhard bars?
shocks and struts?
Caster Camber Plates?
Ball join and bumpsteer kits?
shocks and struts?
I've grouped all these parts together because they are related.
You said your car will be mainly used for driving on the street, so I would just get some Eibach or Tein springs and Koni shocks and call it a day. You will probably be overwhelmed by the amount of spring/coil over choices out there. Take a look at some pictures of lowered Mustangs and decide how low you want your car to be. For the most part, lowering it more than 1.5" will significantly change the suspension geometry and you will need to replace parts other than just shocks and springs (i.e. ball joints and bumpsteer kit). The purpose of aftermarket ball joints is to correct the front roll center on a lowered car. Excessive lowering will force the front control arms to be no longer parallel to the ground. This can cause bumpsteer, and a bumpsteer kit can help correct this.
Another way of lowering your car is coilovers. But a quality coilover setup will cost you at least $400 more and is absolutely unnecessary unless you want to lower more than 2". Even some guys who race their cars still use the OEM McPherson style shock and spring combo. If it works for them, it will work for you.
Whichever route you choose, you will need to get a wheel alignment. Insist on a 2 wheel alignment because our solid axle cars will not benefit from a 4 wheel alignment. Shops that try to sell you the 4 wheel alignment are trying to shaft you. There is nothing you can adjust on a stock solid axle Mustang. And depending on how low you want your car to be, you may need caster/camber plates and a panhard bar to get things aligned correctly.For example, I lowered my car 1.5" with the FRPP K springs and needed the panhard bar, but not the caster/camber plates.

Strut Tower Braces?
Subframe connectors and braces?
roll bars/cages?
These parts are in the category of "chassis stiffening." The newer Mustangs won't benefit as much (for street driving) than the older cars from subframe connectors. You might improve handling characteristics by getting the strut brace, but in my opinion that should not be your first suspension mod. Take care of that body roll and nose dive first (with springs/shocks), and then worry about bars and braces. A roll cage would be a complete waste of money and impractical on a street car.


sway bars and anti roll kits?
Control Arms?
suspension bushing?
These are the leftover items that I couldn't quite put in any of the above categories. Swaybars can drastically change the handling balance of your car. Changing the size of the swaybar on either end can induce (or reduce) understeer. If you don't know what understeer and oversteer is, look it up.
Control arms are located on all four corners of the car, and there is an upper control arm on the rear end. I don't know what exactly they do but aftermarket lower control arms for the rear will reduce wheel hop during launching and give you better traction overall during acceleration. I have been told not to get upper control arms unless the focus is on drag racing. Also, you can buy tubular front control arms to reduce weight.

I would highly recommend using the search function and look for posts made by Norm Peterson and Sam Strano. It's hard to cover all these topics in just one post.
 
Last edited:

dream07

forum member
Joined
Jan 25, 2011
Posts
444
Reaction score
1
Location
Eastern PA
Yes, to cover all of this in depth would take a book.

Springs?- must, lowers you and you will notice different rates
Caster Camber Plates?- not needed
Strut Tower Braces?- not needed, mostly for looks
Control Arms?- not needed on naturally aspirated 4.0
Subframe connectors and braces?- not needed for DD
Ball joint and bumpsteer kits?- not needed for DD
shocks and struts? best bang/buck, get with spring kit like FRPP or other
sway bars and anti roll kits?- GT or GT500 used takeoffs cheap upgrades
suspension bushing?- not needed
roll bars/cages?- not needed
coil over kits?- cost a lot, nice to have, but $$$
panhard bar?- adjustable is must, will keep rear centered

The best advice I can give you is to stick with one manufacturer/tuner's parts (FRPP, Steeda, Roush, Eibach, etc). They designed their stuff to work with their other stuff. Good luck!
 

stkjock

---- Madmin ----
Staff member
Administrator
Super Moderator
S197 Team Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2007
Posts
40,255
Reaction score
3,170
Location
Long Island NY
search_it_noob.gif
 

bossmanpena

Team OverDrive
Joined
Jan 26, 2012
Posts
452
Reaction score
0
Location
New Jersey

yea of course this always works but if we all just search for old posts we might all as well lock posting.. believe me im going to search for those who know what theyre talking about but i also like various current up to date opinions
 

stkjock

---- Madmin ----
Staff member
Administrator
Super Moderator
S197 Team Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2007
Posts
40,255
Reaction score
3,170
Location
Long Island NY
the suspension design of the cars has not changed in the 7 years the model has been out. What worked 3 years ago will work today.

as far as locking posting.... that can happen to.... typically when the posted rules are not followed..............
 
Last edited:

EGNARO

Orange Backwards
Joined
Jan 27, 2011
Posts
1,076
Reaction score
2
Location
Long island
just make sure if you change your struts or springs.. to get a set of new or upgraded strut mounts. they tend to go to shit after you mess with them.
 

WereWolf

forum member
Joined
Jan 11, 2011
Posts
111
Reaction score
0
the suspension design of the cars has not changed in the 7 years the model has been out. What worked 3 years ago will work today.

as far as locking posting.... that can happen to.... typically when the posted rules are not followed..............

lol in his defense there are only 11 posts in the v6 section
 

stkjock

---- Madmin ----
Staff member
Administrator
Super Moderator
S197 Team Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2007
Posts
40,255
Reaction score
3,170
Location
Long Island NY
Suspension mods are the same on both
 

Norm Peterson

corner barstool sitter
Joined
Feb 5, 2011
Posts
3,615
Reaction score
317
Location
RIP - You will be missed
True, but a case can be made for suspension mods being less common among V6 model owners as well as a lower level of realization that the same mods will work.

Those who do understand tend to ask different questions.


bossman - the autocrosser's mantra might be expressed as "seat time, tires/wheels, everything else".

To that end, your mechanical upgrades really ought to start with the tires and wheels wide enough to properly support them in the corners. If not as your absolute first purchase, at least keep this in mind (I do understand the value in hanging onto the OE wheels/tires particularly when budget or storage-space is limited).

With what you mentioned in post #3, once past the tires & wheels you might not need anything more than better shocks/struts and sta-bars. Once handling/cornering is specifically identified as a main goal, I'll normally suggest getting adjustables for those even if you have to stretch a little to get them, the reason being that you can then dial the shocks and struts to best suit your personal ride vs handling preference and adjust the bars to put the understeer/oversteer balance where you're comfortable with it.

An aggressive alignment and Steeda HD strut mounts is all that separates that setup (↑↑↑) . . .

. . . from this one (↓↓↓), which is still on the OE springs (and does get autocrossed and road-course tracked). The Koni yellows get dialed up a bit for the extreme stuff, dialed way down when my wife is going to be along for a longer ride.

1975-2012-run-shore-autocross-023.jpg



BTW, I'm a big fan of sneaking up on a "final setup" rather than simply throwing the checkbook at it.


Norm
 
Last edited:

WereWolf

forum member
Joined
Jan 11, 2011
Posts
111
Reaction score
0
True, but a case can be made for suspension mods being less common among V6 model owners as well as a lower level of realization that the same mods will work.

Those who do understand tend to ask different questions.


bossman - the autocrosser's mantra might be expressed as "seat time, tires/wheels, everything else".

To that end, your mechanical upgrades really ought to start with the tires and wheels wide enough to properly support them in the corners. If not as your absolute first purchase, at least keep this in mind (I do understand the value in hanging onto the OE wheels/tires particularly when budget or storage-space is limited).

With what you mentioned in post #3, once past the tires & wheels you might not need anything more than better shocks/struts and sta-bars. Once handling/cornering is specifically identified as a main goal, I'll normally suggest getting adjustables for those even if you have to stretch a little to get them, the reason being that you can then dial the shocks and struts to best suit your personal ride vs handling preference and adjust the bars to put the understeer/oversteer balance where you're comfortable with it.

An aggressive alignment and Steeda HD strut mounts is all that separates that setup (↑↑↑) . . .

. . . from this one (↓↓↓), which is still on the OE springs (and does get autocrossed and road-course tracked). The Koni yellows get dialed up a bit for the extreme stuff, dialed way down when my wife is going to be along for a longer ride.

1975-2012-run-shore-autocross-023.jpg



BTW, I'm a big fan of sneaking up on a "final setup" rather than simply throwing the checkbook at it.


Norm
i was actually thinking about getting adjustable struts and keeping factory springs just because i live on a dirt road and the road tend to be pretty bad in the winter.
 

Sharad

Site Sponsor
Official Vendor
Joined
Jan 3, 2011
Posts
2,403
Reaction score
0
Location
Fort Myers, Florida
Springs?
Caster Camber Plates?
Strut Tower Braces?
Control Arms?
Subframe connectors and braces?
Ball join and bumpsteer kits?
shocks and struts?
sway bars and anti roll kits?
suspension bushing?
roll bars/cages?
coil over kits?
panhard bars?

what does all this stuff do? how effective is it all? should i bother upgrading all of it and will i feel a difference? thanks to all those who care in advance


Springs? - strongly recommended. Improve cornering without killing straight line traction.
Caster Camber Plates? - not necessary, but useful if you like to play with your alignment. Also useful if your strut mounts are shot.
Strut Tower Braces? - not necessary. Some swear by them, some say they can't tell a difference.
Control Arms? - strongly recommended. Improve traction in a straight line and in the corners.
Subframe connectors and braces? - not necessary. Some swear by them, some say they can't tell a difference.
Ball join and bumpsteer kits? - not needed unless you're slammed. 2"+
shocks and struts? - strongly recommended. Strange/QA1 for street/strip, Konis for cornering.
sway bars and anti roll kits? - swaybars strongly recommended. Solid Anti-Rollbar only needed for extreme drag racing applications.
suspension bushing? - strongly recommended, but included in most replacement suspension components.
roll bars/cages? - not necessary except as required by a sanctioning body
coil over kits? - not necessary, but cool to fiddle with
panhard bars? - necessary if lowering the car.

We carry most of these parts at www.uprproducts.com. Our suspension components are Made in America, they carry a Lifetime Guarantee, and s197forum members get a 10% discount on every part we manufacture.
 

Support us!

Support Us - Become A Supporting Member Today!

Click Here For Details

Sponsor Links

Banner image
Back
Top