Rear end locked for a second. info inside

[kevinatfms]

i did not say that ford has a procedure but if you read the procedure it clearly states if you over torque the pinion nut causing too much drive pinion preload you MUST install a new crush sleeve. 99% of the time people who dont take proper readings before and after and just "guestimate" the before and after will get it wrong and either overtighten or undertighten the pinion nut.
the way our techs here complete a job like that is to either take readings before and after, or to r&r carrier and replace the crush washer. i would do the latter since i want to do it once and correctly.

also, ford will send out the v1.0 service manuals which that site has, then on the PTS website for ford dealerships they will update service procedures to increase FIRTFT(fix it right the first time). they may have updated the book to remove that section because of certain repeat rearend failures. im not saying that the procedure is not correct but Ford may or may not have removed it from our website due to repeat service failures.

 

[Cone Sweeper]

ok first off i cannot believe someone is contributing gear whine and axle lockup to pinion angle. a vibration maybe, locking the rear up? HELL NO. pinion angle changes with suspension articulation which in turn can attribute to d/s vibration. your bearings in the nose of your 8.8 are supported enough to contain enough vibration that they will not distort or fail under that degree.
and GM rear ends are entirely different than a ford rear. they may setup somewhat the same, things may be called the same, but they are from 2 different companies.

the gear whine is an improperly torqued crush sleeve causing the ring/pinion to move the gear mesh away from its broken in path. once the preload has been taken off the inner/outer pinion bearings the sleeve SHOULD be replaced. ford does have a procedure to replace the pinion seal and retighten the pinion nut back to specs but you must, MUST check your rotational breakaway torque of your pinion bearings. this is accomplished by removing the carrier assembly and checking for proper torque.

im assuming whoever completed the OP's rear did not torque the rear to specs and the gear pattern has moved because of this. OP-take it back to them and have them r&r the carrier and check the breakaway torque on the pinion nut. it should be between 16-29 inch pounds. make sure they have the correct style torque wrench also, it is dial type, not the clicker type. it needs to record torque during a swing of the pinion flange.

the reason for the rear end lockup may be he overtightened it causing tooth contact out of the gear mesh which was set at the factory or did not tighten it enough causing gear deflection which will cause broken ring gear teeth and metal which can lock the rear up.
ive rebuilt 2 rears for people on this forum due to people not correctly setting the pinion bearing preload.

You sir are correct!! I got everything looked at and taken of. The bearings welded themselves together due to heat and the crush washer/seal was broken. It was over tightened at the first install which was very obvious when we took things apart.. then pinion was able to move like you were doing a code for a video game.. TONS of play. But thank you guys for all your imput and help in the matter!! This forum truly is amazing with the amount of knowledge. Thank you again guys!!
And if this does happen to anyone.. replace all the bearings, shims, seals..etc. Don't half ass it!!! thanks again!!!

 

[fordmanforever]

Glad you got it fixed and good info. It is nice when people can help you out.

 

[19COBRA93]

You don't go changing pinion angles if they've been set a certain way, and working for a long time, cause it will fuck up your rear end in my experience. I did that just one time and within 50 miles, my pinion gear had worn a whole new pattern into the ring gear and then the pinion gear overheated and snapped off. This was when I was 17 learning about cars. And ever since then, I've heard not to adjust the pinion gear if it has been rolling without issues, even if it is out of spec. You just replace the pinion shaft seal and let it continue to ride at that setting and you either replace the pinion seal every now and then or you replace the pinion and ring gear as a set and adjust it correctly.

I think your mechanics fucked you over sir.

Pinion angle and pinion depth are two entirely different things. Pinion angle has absolutely no effect on the pinion bearings or the ring gear.

 

[Fullboogie]

Local drivetrain shop I use charges $450. That includes the ring and pinion and install. I didn't use FRPP or Motive. I went with Richmond gears with zero issues or whine.

Who did your install? I had a crappy experience at a shop in Houston and my gears have whined on accel and decel since they were installed. Need to find a new shop.

 

[kevinatfms]

glad it fixed the problem. i get a lot of shit here on the forum cause im crazy about rearends but since i have rebuilt many of the so-called performance shop installs that its getting a little rediculous.

pinion bearing preload is no joke, follow the directions to the T and make sure you have all the correct tools. Or come to me and i can build it for a small fee