replace fuel pump or entire assembly

Michael Zeda

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i searched. came up with lots of answers that had to do with modified. I am running a 05 GT with bolt ons but nothing major. Just want to install new pump.

Jeremy told me to get a 07-09 HAT so I looked on ebay and that just made me more unsure when I see left assembly and right assembly.

can someone just tell me what I need to get plz. lol. no blowers or chargers now or ever. lol..
 

07 Boss

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I wouldn’t buy either side.

If you’re not having issues and not building it for a specific application, leave it alone.
 

sman247

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Stock pump is good to way more than you will ever make on bolt ons. Your injectors will max out before your pump will, usually around 375-380whp
 

Michael Zeda

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I am having issues. i have a sputter but no CEL lights. when cruising say 40mph its a sputter every 4 or 5 seconds..maybe longer. no codes . I thought it was bad gas but still doing it.

it gets slightly worse if I have romped on it seconds before. but goes back to slight sputter . If I didnt drive it every day and just got in the car it might not be noticeable but I notice it. its there. wasnt there before . car is running 93 steeda tune. makes no difference if I switch to my 93 Lito tune.


I do have new coils ordered.

im not changing the pump just for laughs. car has 145k on it .
 
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swflastang05

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You can easily just replace the pump without having to replace the entire assembly, I've done it to both my wife's and daughters 06 GT's. No special tools needed. I did replace the 06 pumps with 07+ style pumps, per Jeremy's recommendation, and that did fix some stalling out issues, but I kept the OEM 06 style hats.
 

702GT

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Have you data logged it to verify you're having fuel pump issues? The FPDM should be showing serious inconsistency if it's trying to feed a failing fuel pump. I want to say, a tuner once told me fuel pumps either work or they don't, there's no in between. Usually more likely for the FPDM to be failing than the pump. I'm in agreement with the others, no sense making a hat switch just for NA bolt ons with no plans for getting serious in the near future. Replacing the pump can be a PITA, and the FPDM is fairly easy. I'm just concerned what makes you think you're having a pump issue as opposed to anything else?
 

Michael Zeda

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I was told to replace the hat with a 07-09 model because it was better. replacing fuel pump that has 145k miles is not that outrageous. not sure the harm in it. rather do it now than wait till I am out on the road far from home or something.

I dont know what the FPDM is. ill have to look it up.

as far as data logging for any of this I havnt done it. dont really know what I need to look for. I do have a SCT X4
 

redfirepearlgt

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I suggest you learn to datalog. Steeda or Lito can give you directions on the basic PIDs to use. Livelink is a free down load from the SCT website to your laptop. Yoru tuner came with a USB cable to upload tunes to it. If you have a Lito tune you must have received it by email and then put it on your device. Datlogging isn't much more involved. And as you grow with it you will find out how useful it is to to have that knowledge.

Here is a link to VMP performance. Most tuners use the same basic PID's for datalogging. As you use it you will begin to notice things like spark advance and knock and engine coolant temp and RPM and MPH, etc. The datalogging process and items for typical tuning and other basic diagnostics is found abd two pages down under HOW TO DATALOG 1996-2010 MODELS.

https://www.vmpperformance.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=495
 

Pentalab

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What is your FPDC ? (Fuel pump duty cycle). My 2010 would gag when ever I tried to get into boost. FPDC was almost pegged to 99%. Kicker was, the normal 40 psi fuel rail pressure dropped to just 5 psi, when it gagged. The problem turned out to be the silly 'sock filter' that goes on the bottom of the fuel pump. The sock filter was clogged up good and solid, from all the debris and crap floating at the bottom of the tank. Fuel filter was pristine. The pump was removed and sock cleaned, tank cleaned, zero problems since. Fuel rail pressure is a solid 40 psi, either at idle or 6 krpm with blower on. FPDC is 38-40% at idle..and 80% at 6 krpm ( with blower on, gas mashed). The aeroforce gauges plugged into obdt port told me at a glance what the issue was, FPDC sky high, and pressure through the floor. Doesn't take very much to clog up an oem sock filter. Easy to clean out, once the sock is removed, with just water pressure from a garden hose and sprayer. Then just dry it, re-install it.

That's just one possible issue with the fuel pump assy.
 

46addict

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How do you know this isn't from widened spark plug gap or bad coil boots? Have you tested the original coils to see if they are actually bad? What brand are the replacement coils you bought? What does your fuel pump pre-filter look like, and when was the last time the external filter was replaced? Have you tried cleaning the throttle body? These get caked with oil and buildup from the PCV drawing in crankcase fumes.

Replacing a pump without confirming it is actually broken is outrageous to me, regardless of mileage.
 

07 Boss

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Replacing a pump without confirming it is actually broken is outrageous to me, regardless of mileage.

My point exactly. Confirm your pump is bad before replacing it. Look at rail pressure and duty cycle before swapping out a perfectly good pump.
 

redfirepearlgt

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So post the datalog spread sheet so it can be viewed. It can be looked at in excel spreadsheet if you saved the datalog to your laptop while using SCT livelink II. Otherwise just start throwing money at it.
 

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