Road Race Suspension///

leviathon

Member
Joined
Apr 28, 2012
Posts
449
Reaction score
0
Location
Erwin, nc
Suspension:
saleen racecraft coilovers
bmr lcas
stallion suspension panhard bar with aurora bearings and brace

Needed

Brake fluid flush
stainless lines
LOTS OF SEAT TIME
UCA and mount
sways
wheels and tires
a v8 would help lol
 

neema

Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2010
Posts
748
Reaction score
0
Location
Fresno, CA
uquna8yb.jpg


Not exactly suspension, but hopefully the breather on the new cover stops the stupid spilling issue with the originalbreather location. Anyone know what size bolt is good to use to plug the stock location?
 

Ivan 5.0

Still learning...
Joined
Feb 13, 2011
Posts
665
Reaction score
0
Location
NoVA
90% street car // 10% track car

Koni Sport Struts/Shocks
Steeda Sport Springs
Maximum Motorsports Caster/Camber Plates
Steeda Lightweight Radiator Support
Steeda Double Bar Strut Tower Brace
Maximum Motorsports Panhard Rod
Maximum Motorsports XD Rear Lower Control Arms
Whiteline Rear Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets
Nitto Invo 275/40ZR-18 Tires
TSW Nurburgring Rotary Forged 18x9.5 Matte Gunmetal Wheels

Coming this spring: pads, lines, fluids, brake cooling ducts, swaybars
 

Mr. WHO

Member
Joined
May 19, 2011
Posts
738
Reaction score
0
Location
Saint Peters, MO
Vogtland 1.2 springs all around
Koni SRT.T front and back
J&M camber plates
CHE K-Member brace with torque limiters
UMI poly/rod LCA
UMI adj. UCA with UMI UCM
UMI adj poly/rod PHB
Whiteline front and rear sways
Stainless steel brake lines
Custom (lol, cheap and works great) rear end catch can
Hurst shifter

Future plans,
Rear diff cover (jealous of my friends ease of changing fluid out)
Brake upgrade
SOOOOOOO need cooling ducts
SOOOOOOOOO in very much need of some damn seats!!!! Cant find one I like so far.
Long tubes
Hot rod cams
Oil cooler
 
Last edited:

jayman33

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2010
Posts
2,454
Reaction score
1
2013 Boss
BMR springs
Koni Yellows
Ground Control CC plates
Hotchkis Billet LCA's
BMR Relo brackets
Hotchkis Adj. PHB
Goodridge Stainless brake lines
FRPP brake duct kit
Hawk pads
Separate rotors and pads for track
Forgestar CF10's 19x9.5/19x11 in Michelin Super sports

Needed
MGW
Brake fluid flush (good brake fluid??)
Tranny fluid flush (good tranny fluid??)
 

a50cobra

Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2012
Posts
91
Reaction score
1
Location
Orlando, FL
+1 on Motul RBF600 Brake Fluid
Amsoil or Red Line for tranny fluid (I use RL brand for both tranny and diff oils - no complaints)
 

Whiskey11

SCCA Autoscrosser #23 STU
Joined
Feb 24, 2012
Posts
1,644
Reaction score
4
Figured I'd update my setup:

Car/Class:
2009 Mustang GT 4.6L 3v V8
#11 STX in SCCA Solo II/Autocross
Curb Weight: 3440 (w/ 1/8th tank of gas, no trunk junk or driver)
Weight Distribution: 52.6% front/47.4% rear (measurement taken with driver in the seat)


Suspension:
Ground Control Complete Coilover Kit (440 lbs/in front 200 lbs/in rear)
Ground Control Street Camber Plates
Street Alignment of -1.5º camber, zero toe, +7.0º caster
Autocross alignment of -2.9º camber, -0.10 toe (out), +7.0º caster

Strano 35mm Front Bar (middle position)
Stock 22mm rear bar
Strano/Competition Endlinks
Fays2 Watts Link (RC up one from center)
Dunlop Direzza Z1 Sport Star Specs (245/45/18 on all 4 corners)

Brakes:
Bone Stock

Engine/Drivetrain/Exhaust:
K&N Drop In Filter for stock air box
Rest is stock (down to the 3.55 gears on the stock T-Lok)

Aerodynamics:
None

Changes have been italicized. The extra data from corner balancing gave me enough accurate info to get an accurate amount of weight reduction by doing the easy to change mods such as wheels/tires, seats, battery, brake rotors, etc to drop roughly 155lbs. That puts a theoretical competition weight somewhere around 3285-3300 with not a lot of change in weight distribution. Now if only I could afford to do all that weight reduction and max the car out! :)

I hope you all can use your imagination, I forgot to take an "after" picture after getting the car corner balanced and having them drop the rear of the car another quarter inch. The car sits leveled rather than with the positive rake on it:

IMGP9588.jpg
 

neema

Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2010
Posts
748
Reaction score
0
Location
Fresno, CA
nice whiskey. did you corner balance your car? also, what did you set your ride height to?
 

Whiskey11

SCCA Autoscrosser #23 STU
Joined
Feb 24, 2012
Posts
1,644
Reaction score
4
nice whiskey. did you corner balance your car? also, what did you set your ride height to?

Yeah it's been corner balanced. The ride height is little over 1.5 down front and and 1.75 rear. The car should be leveled. IIRC the center of fender height to the ground was about 27.75" in the front from 29.125 stock. I don't remember what the rear was but the stock height was 29.125 everywhere except the driver's side (makes sense since the car was at about a 1/4 tank when I measured). The driver's side rear stock was like 28.75 or something.

What has me confused though is on the corner weights. I guess my impression of corner weighting was that with a driver your side to side weight numbers should be roughly the same. I was told that I had 50/50 side to side distribution but the numbers aren't the same (which doesn't translate to 50/50 to me). Anyway, this is one of two shops in my region that does this and they race Vipers, exclusively. One of their Viper sales guys (the guy I contact for these alignments) has been racing for the better part of 20 years in all sorts of cars including Mustangs so I honestly don't know.

The corner weights were:
1030| Front |942
932| Rear |843

That is with a 270lb driver and the spare tire. Final weight after removing the spare and driver was the 3440 (it's 3441, but 3440 is easier to say) figure. I have no choice really but to put my faith in the fact that they know what they are doing. The "shop" is Woodhouse Racing which is based out of Woodhouse Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep which is a dealership. Like I said, these guys race Vipers. They win so I have to put faith in what they know as being right.

EDIT: It appears, my understanding of 50/50 weight distribution and actual weight per corner is entirely wrong and they are different concepts. I'm going to have to do some research on how you can have more weight on one side of the car and still have a 50/50 weight distribution. Seems a little, counter intuitive! :)
 
Last edited:

SoundGuyDave

This Space For Rent
Joined
Apr 9, 2007
Posts
1,978
Reaction score
29
You can look at the weights on kind of a matrix, yeilding total front, total rear, total left, total right, and in my opinion, the most important, the cross-weights, LF-RR and RF-LR. THAT is where the overall neutral balance comes in. If you can get the cross-weight (expressed as a percentage of total weight) in the range of 49.9-50.1%, you're in good shape. If the cross-weight is skewed, it will exhibit a tendency to behave very differently in left and right turns.

In an ideal world, get the car as light as you possibly can, including pulling all systems and components that don't have a rulebook dictated location, then scale the car and start adding them back in. If you can get creative enough, you can target pretty close to a 50% front, 50% left and 50% cross-weight including driver and "X" amount of fuel. The fuel load in the S197 is honestly kind of a joke, given the saddlebag tanks, but at least it's worth it to try...

By "systems" and "components," I'm referring to battery, fire bottle, cool-suit tank, and whatever ballast you may need to make weight. BIG difference in mounting them in the right-rear corner of the trunk rather than right behind the driver's seat, or under the hood.
 

ArizonaGT

Road Course Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2009
Posts
1,248
Reaction score
3
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Dave's right--get the car as light as possible, even under your minimum weights for competition classes. Then you can use ballast to add the weight back in where you want it!
 

fun4me

Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2012
Posts
176
Reaction score
0
Is it ok to run -1.8 camber on a daily driver? -0.2 rear toe? +0.1 front toe?
 

Wicked5.O

'Stang Noob
Joined
Jul 30, 2012
Posts
177
Reaction score
0
Is it ok to run -1.8 camber on a daily driver? -0.2 rear toe? +0.1 front toe?

My last car was running -1.8 rear & -2.5 front camber. Tire wear wasn't really a bad issue. They lasted pretty well as a DD.
 

lost won

Junior Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2012
Posts
40
Reaction score
0
Location
Sandy Eggo
Pretty much stock....

Hmm. I think I've got the shortest list...well, second to Vapour Trails at least, lol!

Naah.

Camber bolts. Hoosier A6s, size 295/30-19.

F stock SCCA autocross. I know; it ain't road racin'....

picture.php
 
Last edited:

Norm Peterson

corner barstool sitter
Joined
Feb 5, 2011
Posts
3,615
Reaction score
326
Location
RIP - You will be missed
Is it ok to run -1.8 camber on a daily driver? -0.2 rear toe? +0.1 front toe?
It's at least do-able. But you do have to drive through the corners a bit harder than "average traffic".

Near as I can tell, my '08 has been at -1.8° camber ever since it rolled off the assembly line. The Mazda that was a dual purpose daily/autocross car eventually ended up at -2.2° or a bit more up front.


Norm
 

Whiskey11

SCCA Autoscrosser #23 STU
Joined
Feb 24, 2012
Posts
1,644
Reaction score
4
You can look at the weights on kind of a matrix, yeilding total front, total rear, total left, total right, and in my opinion, the most important, the cross-weights, LF-RR and RF-LR. THAT is where the overall neutral balance comes in. If you can get the cross-weight (expressed as a percentage of total weight) in the range of 49.9-50.1%, you're in good shape. If the cross-weight is skewed, it will exhibit a tendency to behave very differently in left and right turns.

In an ideal world, get the car as light as you possibly can, including pulling all systems and components that don't have a rulebook dictated location, then scale the car and start adding them back in. If you can get creative enough, you can target pretty close to a 50% front, 50% left and 50% cross-weight including driver and "X" amount of fuel. The fuel load in the S197 is honestly kind of a joke, given the saddlebag tanks, but at least it's worth it to try...

By "systems" and "components," I'm referring to battery, fire bottle, cool-suit tank, and whatever ballast you may need to make weight. BIG difference in mounting them in the right-rear corner of the trunk rather than right behind the driver's seat, or under the hood.

I get it now. The cross weights are 1lb different so that is what he meant by 50/50. Not that the left vs right is 50/50. I'm still interested in finding out why cross weights are more important than actual weight locations when it comes to balance. I plan on Googling that.

This car is an autocross car though (well it's a daily driver that gets autocrossed), so no requirement for fire bottle, cool-suit or ballast. ST has no minimum weights just a crap ton of requirements stating what can be changed (and everything else is assumed not). I've autocrossed this car with the 50 miles to E spamming the information center on the dash without any fuel starvation issues hence why I wasn't afraid to have the corner weighting done at 1/8th of a tank where last year I spent most of my time autocrossing at for fuel. I generally fill up on the way home.

The good news is that the shop didn't lead me astray! :)

@fun4me - I ran a full year + autocross with -1.7º camber and NO toe in the front but -0.16º toe out in the rear (thanks Ford! :p) and was still wearing the outside edge of the tires! Autocross is hard on tires. Still, the insides of the tires still have the nubbies on them from the molding and they look brand new compared to the outside edges. Flipped the tires on the rims, switched sides they were on and called it a day! More camber for this year!
 
Joined
Mar 17, 2011
Posts
266
Reaction score
0
Location
Detroit, MI
Possibly a stupid question but when corner weighting a coilover system, is the end ride height dependent on where the corner weights are set at? just trying to make sure im understanding this correctly....
 

Latest posts

Support us!

Support Us - Become A Supporting Member Today!

Click Here For Details

Back
Top