spark plug issue

[Riptide]

I removed the stock plugs a couple years ago and did the TSB. I made a mistake and put anti-seize on the threads as well as the ground shields. I snugged them back down and thought I was good to go.

I went out to break them loose with just a regular 3/8 craftsman ratchet recently and damnit those things are in there good. Well they need to come out so some brisk plugs can go in pre-supercharger install (KB).

Even though carbon buildup shouldn't be an issue here - is it worth it to put some aerokroil or pb down there before I go to try and crack them loose again? Also, instead of that little 3/8 ratchet, I'm thinking about getting out my breaker. In theory that shouldn't be a problem and if anything should make it easier to control the wrench when I put the torque down to back them out. OK idea?

Apologies if this isn't tech but seems like it should be.

 

[08gt4u]

if they are that tight in there i would fallow that procedure of using pb blaster or aerokroil turn respray turn respray and so on so on untill they comeout.

 

[demarcom]

A 3/8" ratchet may be too short. Before going too crazy get a trq wrench and set it for 30 ft/lbs and give it a try. Installing the plugs calls for 25 ft/lbs which may feel like a lot for a small ratchet. If you get nothing with 30 lbs then you may want to try the removal process.

 

[Riptide]

My theory on using the breaker is that if anything it should be easier on the plugs. The amount of tq needed to move them is the same regardless of the wrench. With the breaker it will be easier to control and keep it from twisting especially when it does crack loose.

I've thought about setting the torque wrench and doing what you suggest but the manual to those things pretty much says that is a no-no and a great way to knock the click wrench I have out of calibration...

 

[WarFords]

Make sure you do this with the car really warm and they will come right out!

 

[TexasBlownV8]

Wow, that's tight if you can't get them loose with a 3/8. use of a breaker bar would put a lot of torque on the plugs. Wouldn't do that.

 

[Riptide]

Texas what choice would I have? The torque they need to come out isn't going to change from one wrench to another. It will take the same value no matter. The bigger wrench gives me better control and more leverage.

That's my "theory" anyway. Posting it here before I do it just to see what others think and make sure I'm understanding this correctly.

And I am considering warming the engine up at least a little bit before I do this. I've read you don't want it to hot though or you can screw up the threads.

 

[Mustang30212]

I removed my factory 05 plugs a couple months back.

I blew the plug holes out....sprayed PB in there and let them sit a few hours. Then went back and gave them a 1/4 turn (to let the PB down the threads)....and left them for the night.

Next day....came right out no issues.

RH

 

[07VistaChicago]

I would think that the never seez would help them come out... but I also installed mine according to the instructions in the TSB.

 

[Fallenauthority]

I would NOT do them warm. Pulling plugs out of a warm aluminum head and installing them in a warm aluminum head can fuck the threads up

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk

 

[mydangstang]

Thinking 25-30 foot pounds is too much to torque these plugs and don't care what the book says, because after breaking a plug on removal I didn't torque my new ones to 25lbs and haven't had any problems. Now I can switch them without using a half day to do it. just my thought on it. Maybe if I was boosted I would but not in my case.

 

[Riptide]

My theory is that what is keeping these things in tight is NOT the carbon buildup issue with the ground shields. Those had the anti-seize on there less than 8K miles ago.

No, what is probably keeping them held in tight is that they are just simply overtightened. The jam nut is snugged up against there tighter than it should be and that is what is holding them in so good.

If I'm right then that's a good thing because in theory the plug will crack loose easier once I give it enough torque to do the trick and the ground shields shouldn't stick inside the head.

 

[mydangstang]

My theory is that what is keeping these things in tight is NOT the carbon buildup issue with the ground shields. Those had the anti-seize on there less than 8K miles ago.

No, what is probably keeping them held in tight is that they are just simply overtightened. The jam nut is snugged up against there tighter than it should be and that is what is holding them in so good.

If I'm right then that's a good thing because in theory the plug will crack loose easier once I give it enough torque to do the trick and the ground shields shouldn't stick inside the head.

If this is your first time removing them I can't stress enough to BE Careful and follow the TSB recomendations because the 1 I broke was because of carbon welded groundshield, but they also seemed way over torqued too. When I went to install the new 1 piece plugs and saw how tight the applied 30 footlbs was I just said No Way and went with about 18 and that even seemed a bit much to me but I guess that's a call we each have to make for ourselves as it applys to our situation.

good Luck

 

[Five Oh Brian]

I use copper plugs in my 07, so I've changed them a half dozen times. I followed the TSB to the letter the first time and had zero problems getting the stock plugs out. I use a torque wrench (1/2" drive breaker bar basically) to get them in & out as it gives me more control. I set it to 25 lb ft and it works like a charm. Do the R&R on a cold engine only and you'll never have an issue.

 

[Riptide]

@mydangstang

Did you read my post man? I've already removed them once and did the TSB.

 

[bingo2]

Here's a little information from the NGK website regarding spark plug torque values:
View attachment NGK Spark Plug Info.pdf

 

[cop on my back]

My theory is that what is keeping these things in tight is NOT the carbon buildup issue with the ground shields. Those had the anti-seize on there less than 8K miles ago.

No, what is probably keeping them held in tight is that they are just simply overtightened. The jam nut is snugged up against there tighter than it should be and that is what is holding them in so good.

If I'm right then that's a good thing because in theory the plug will crack loose easier once I give it enough torque to do the trick and the ground shields shouldn't stick inside the head.

I can assure you you are are wrong with this statement. This is not as big an issue with the 4.6 as it is 5.4 in the F150, but it is the carbon holding the ground shield in place. The antiseize will help, but it will still burn off and carbon will get in the gap between the head and the plug over time. If you ever did a plug change in an F150 you would know what I mean. I have done both.

 

[Riptide]

Dude it was 8000 miles ago the TSB was done. There's no way that carbon buildup in 8K is gonna cause them to be stuck in there at this point. They are in there tight as hell for some other reason.

 

[WarFords]

Rip, just warm the engine nice and hot and pull them out with a regular ratchet! By the time you get done pulling them the car will be cool enough to put new ones in! And don't touch a torq wrench to put plugs in, they just need to be snugged tight!

 

[BruceH]

Dude it was 8000 miles ago the TSB was done. There's no way that carbon buildup in 8K is gonna cause them to be stuck in there at this point. They are in there tight as hell for some other reason.

Rip,

I've done exactly what you did. Put antisieze on the threads and didn't think about how it would change the torque value. I change my plugs every 7500 miles and the carbon isn't the problem, it's the overtorque due to the antisieze on the threads. I've just muscled them out with no issues. Good luck.

BTW you are correct about screwing up the calibration on your torque wrench.