Spark Plugs

[darcman]

While were talking about plugs I’ve been debating if I should get new ones or not. They are original from 2005 but only have 12k miles on them. I pulled one out and it looked great. I kind of want to pull the rest, hit them with a brass brush and some anti sieze then reinstall.

In a case like yours, ya why buy new plugs if you dont have to. I am going on about 1 piece plugs and sure they are better. However as long as you antisieze them you should be good. I dont imagine your motor is very dirty on the inside. Before I changed the original plugs I ran a couple cans of Seafoam in the gas just to give everything a good clean. It was surprising when I did mine how gucked up the plug sleeve was. Mine came out with a lot of back and forth. I know for a fact if I would have just kept cranking them out, I would have broke some for sure. So take your time and maybe crack them the 1/8 or 1/4 turn and use some kind of cleaner, I used throttlebody cleaner.

When I took the E370s out after 10 years, I had antisiezed them and they are a 1 piece plug, but they came out like butter and that was after over 60,000 miles. I did run a can of Seafoam in the gas again just before I pulled the E370s.

 

[MrBhp]

While were talking about plugs I’ve been debating if I should get new ones or not. They are original from 2005 but only have 12k miles on them. I pulled one out and it looked great. I kind of want to pull the rest, hit them with a brass brush and some anti sieze then reinstall.

Not a bad idea to pull them and apply neverseize. Never hurts to see what the plugs look like anyway. This used to be just a part of regular service for a hotrod. I would probably replace them with a one piece plug.

 

[StockishS197]

While we’re talking about plugs I’ve been debating if I should get new ones or not. They are original from 2005 but only have 12k miles on them. I pulled one out and it looked great. I kind of want to pull the rest, hit them with a brass brush and some anti sieze then reinstall.

If they are the OE ones from 05, I wouldn’t risk them breaking off in the future and spend the extra $200 for the updated plugs for peace of mind. But that’s just me

 

[Pentalab]

While were talking about plugs I’ve been debating if I should get new ones or not. They are original from 2005 but only have 12k miles on them. I pulled one out and it looked great. I kind of want to pull the rest, hit them with a brass brush and some anti seize then reinstall.

You got a 2005 car ..... with only 12k miles on it ?? IMO, I would toss any 2 piece plugs in a heartbeat. If you are gonna go to all that trouble to get the 2 piece plugs out, you are 1/2 way there.

 

[brasil]

new plugs ..for sure. And use anti size ONLY if Ford recommends the use of anti size. Because anti size / grease.. changes the torque rating. And we all know. TOOO much torque and aluminium do go together ..

 

[MrBhp]

new plugs ..for sure. And use anti size ONLY if Ford recommends the use of anti size. Because anti size / grease.. changes the torque rating. And we all know. TOOO much torque and aluminium do go together ..

Common misconception about the use of anti seize. You do not put it on the threads. It goes on the lower barrel of the spark plug. That's where the plug is galling on the head. The threads don't actually get stuck. You want metal to metal contact on the threads. But what you are saying is good info, as far as tightening torque is concerned.

 

[pass1over]

Common misconception about the use of anti seize. You do not put it on the threads. It goes on the lower barrel of the spark plug. That's where the plug is galling on the head. The threads don't actually get stuck. You want metal to metal contact on the threads. But what you are saying is good info, as far as tightening torque is concerned.

Never heard any of that before.

Most/all new spark plugs have a nickel, or similar coating on the threads which prevents galling and corrosion. Anti-seize is not necessary

 

[Laga]

new plugs ..for sure. And use anti size ONLY if Ford recommends the use of anti size. Because anti size / grease.. changes the torque rating. And we all know. TOOO much torque and aluminium do go together ..

Considering the low percentage of spark plug installs that actually use a torque wrench. I would call this a non-issue. I use a torque wrench and anti-seize, with a 10% reduction to the settings.
I own a 2005, with a 20 year old vehicle, I use anti-seize on any fasteners I’m working on.

 

[MrBhp]

I don't have a problem with anti-seize on the threads, especially since we're dealing with dissimilar metals. But it will not do a thing for a stuck plug on a 3V.

 

[07 Boss]

I'm old, but one thing I do that I have always done is I pull my plugs once or twice a year to inspect them and give them a little cleaning, just habit. Not really necessary in modern fuel injected cars but have always followed the routine. Anyways my point is that if you do this you will never have an issue with with them getting stuck. I have never used the anti-seize on plugs especially the threads and have never had an issue. They slide in and out pretty easily if you follow this routine.

 

[JC SSP]

I agree about doing routine plug inspections and it can tell a lot about how an engine is running…

I use antiseeze on anything that is a mixture of metals (steel and aluminum), thermal temperature changes and/or if there is a possibility of gauling the threads. It doesn’t hurt anything and have never had any issues.

Also, I have never torqued a spark plug in over 30 years… when you know they’re tight, they are tight. Lol

 

[GriffX]

The key not to break a plug is to take your torque wrench, turn the square end around in the head to make it a left hand wrench and don't go over 30 Nm. If it stops, wait 10 minutes and you can turn again. Takes time but in this case it is really safe and effective

I guess because the plugs do not have a crush washer and are bolted against a hard seat, a bit anti-seize will not be a problem.