Steering wheel extension?

Craig

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Has anyone come up with a good way to extend the steering wheel? I'm 6'5" and with the seat in the right spot the steering wheel is really too far for proper track driving.

Currently,I've just been pulling the seat farther forward than I really like and dealing with outstretched arms.

I've seen options like stacking washers under the wheel on other cars with the same lack of telescoping wheel, but was wondering if anyone has come up with a good way to manage this.

Thanks.
 
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Roadracer350

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I am planning on installing a quick disconnect steering wheel like the FR500S. It should extend another 2" I am thinking
 

irishpwr46

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is it possible to have some sort of shaft made?
 

Roadracer350

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This is a daily driver so I need to keep the stock steering wheel.

Not sure how you will be able to do it and keep your stock wheel unless you go to an aftermarket coloum. If you try to extend just the shaft at the wheel I think you will loose all the cruise n stuff but not exactly sure. You could try and relocate the features to the console or dash and do an aftermarket teliscoping coloum but not sure because of the resistors for the buttons.
 

WILECYOT

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Not sure how you will be able to do it and keep your stock wheel unless you go to an aftermarket coloum. If you try to extend just the shaft at the wheel I think you will loose all the cruise n stuff but not exactly sure. You could try and relocate the features to the console or dash and do an aftermarket teliscoping coloum but not sure because of the resistors for the buttons.

If you can make the extension there is no reason you can't make it keep all the features.

Back when I had a mustang I had the exact same problem OP is having. I'm 6'-8" and the mustang was comfortable to me. I felt comfortable driving the car with the seat reclined a bit but the steering wheel was a bit too forward. If I could have relocated it back a few inches it would have been perfect. Sadly, the rest of the car was problematic and I got out of the mustang world. The 2015 is tempting though I must say.
 

Vorshlag-Fair

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With the complexities of steering wheel control buttons, horn and the airbag circuitry, extending the steering wheel is no easy matter in the S197 chassis. If you ever have the steering wheel off of a modern car you will see just how many wires are passing through that "rotating connector", aka: the "clock spring"

10-14-mustang-steering-column-components_8052.jpg


The 2011-14 Mustang uses a clock spring, # LRS-14664AC, $114 from Letemodelrestoration.

lrs-14664ac_1108.jpg


These are delicate and if you disconnect the steering shaft in the engine bay and "spin the wheel" like you just don't care... you will ruin it. This is what connects all of those buttons on the steering wheel and the airbag itself to circuitry under the dash. It is "clocked" with the steering wheel, which should never rotate more than about 2 times. If you clock it wrong or spin the steering shaft too many times in one direction the clock spring will break and you will lose all steering wheel circuits and the airbag.

DSC_1995-M.jpg


Installing a racing steering wheel and/or "quick connect" coupler makes it easy to add a spacer to get the wheel closer to you. Most aftermarket/racing steering wheels are flat and you add a quick connect and/or a spacer to get the wheel the proper distance from your body. Of course when you install a racing steering wheel you lose ALL of those circuits, but some kits can still keep the horn (street steering wheels).

DSC_1191-M.jpg


For a car-to-pits "push to talk" button or other steering wheel mounted buttons in a race car you tend to wire them with pigtailed cords that are external and long. Those are still VERY easy to damage if you get them wrapped around the steering column too far. The LeMons car above had an external push to talk circuit that we broke in the first stint that day... no communication back to the pits during a long endurance race SUCKS.

DSC_9952-M.jpg


Sorry to be pessimistic here, but you aren't going to find a simple solution to this "steering wheel spacer" for the ultra-tall folks. I'm only 6'3" and still have difficulty finding a proper seating/steering wheel position in most cars when wearing a helmet, especially cars with a sunroof (and I have gone to great lengths to even swapped the roof panel on a car to remove that). I have found it is easier to lower the seat (so you don't have to lean the seatback so far back to clear your head to the roof) with an aftermarket racing seat/bracket/slider to get the headroom I need, rather than move the stock steering wheel for proper placement with the stock seat laid waaaaay back.

Cheers,
 

Craig

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Yeah, I sort of figured that was the answer. :(

I seem to have a habit of picking cars with fixed steering wheels (E36 M3, Mustang).

The factory Recaros actually seem to make the issue worse, I think they sit up higher than the stock ones.
 

Department Of Boost

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We could make a solution for that and keep all the functions. No problem. It wouldn't be cheap though to do as a one off. And I would be afraid of the liability issues.
 

Craig

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Are there any aftermarket wheels that might have a deeper dish to them ( while still retaining the stock buttons and airbag)?

I've looked at a couple different ones (like the Grant sold by AM) but it's hard to get a sense of how it compares to the stocker. The Grant has a flatter bottom which might help with the leg-to-wheel clearance, making is easier to sit closer. Looks like Summit has it for $270 which is not bad if it would help fix this.
 
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WILECYOT

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Extend it behind the clock spring for one and lengthen the connector for the clock spring. It's not as complicated as Vorshlag is making it out to be. It would require some thought that 95% of society wouldn't understand but nothing is impossible. It just may cost more than is justifiable.
 

Dubstep Shep

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Are there any aftermarket wheels that might have a deeper dish to them ( while still retaining the stock buttons and airbag)?

I've looked at a couple different ones (like the Grant sold by AM) but it's hard to get a sense of how it compares to the stocker. The Grant has a flatter bottom which might help with the leg-to-wheel clearance, making is easier to sit closer. Looks like Summit has it for $270 which is not bad if it would help fix this.


I'm 6'4", and this is kind of what I was thinking.

If you could just take the actual wheel part and move it towards the driver while leaving the airbag and the controls where they are would be ideal.

That said, it would be awesome of someone made a steering wheel that you could adjust the wheel forward and back without moving the airbag and controls. I'm looking at you Gmitch hahahaha. Can't wait for that 6060 shifter!
 

irishpwr46

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what about a ring that would clamp on to the existing steering wheel?
 

DTL

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This is a very timely thread. I've been thinking about the same thing. It seems like a spacer assembly could be made to run behind the clock spring, as mentioned above. I have the same issue with the wheel placement in these cars as the OP and others in this thread. I'd be willing to go in on a solution, if someone can devise something.
 

frank s

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I'm going to cut the rim loose from the attachment arms and weld in a nice thick tab of the appropriate dimension. Reckon that will leave the wheel right where I want it, and not sacrifice any functions, just make them a little less accessible. Nice paint and re-upholstery job and Bob's your uncle.

(No, I won't, don't need it. If I did, I'd find a junkyard wheel and see if it would work, though.)
 

neema

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Sub'd. I'm tall and suffer the same problems. Frankly, I gave up on it, but I would be willing to pay for a nice OEM looking option.
 

irishpwr46

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what if you got something like this

138436d1310934430-momo-mod-07-steering-wheel-any-pics-mod-07-suede_2.jpg



and mounted it to the existing wheel with clamps around the inner spokes on the stock wheel and rods with nuts to the holes in the spokes on the outer wheel
 

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