crjackson

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Oh I thought it was something to do with installing the supercharger. I mean the engine still spins at the same speeds, it's not like the alternator gets spun faster with an SC on there. Seems kinda counter productive. I feel better with my alternator spinning as fast as it should, not that I have a bunch of electronics or anything, but it just seems weird to want to slow it down,
I agree. I see no reason to change it if you aren’t spinning it any faster.
 

Pentalab

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Stops the alternator spinning to fast and failing, I believe the Saleen SC kit comes with a different pulley for the alternator
Only reason to use a larger diameter pulley on the alternator, etc, is if a larger diam crank pulley is used.
 

Pentalab

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If a larger diameter alternator pulley is used, the Voltage output at idle could be affected, esp with heavy loads at idle. If a larger diam alternator pulley used, the belt would also have to be longer.

On any PD blower, like the roush /saleen / FRPP etc, IF a smaller blower pulley is used, typ the idler below the SC is bigger....to increase..'wrap around contact surface area' and also take up the slack in the belt
 

tabstang

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Listen to Pentalab re: "supercharging" the suspension, brakes & tires. A stock Mustang with 100 more horsepower can be pretty dangerous. Gotta upgrade the whole car.
 

DieHarder

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Listen to Pentalab re: "supercharging" the suspension, brakes & tires. A stock Mustang with 100 more horsepower can be pretty dangerous. Gotta upgrade the whole car.

Do yourself a favor. Do this first. After I bought mine I took it out one night and decided to punch it. Had to get out of it right away or I would have swapped ends. Thought to myself that ain't right.... Then dove in for a complete front to back suspension upgrade bringing everything up to or exceeding GT500 specs including brakes, calipers, struts/springs; LCA's F/R; UCA rear; sway bars; panhard, braces, poly everything, new rims, tires, etc...etc... Only after I finished all of that and satisfied with handling then I added a supercharger (DOB). Now she scoots well and is able to handle the increased HP without the undue excitement.
 

Pentalab

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Originally, I had the local Roush dealer install the small M90 blower + lowered roush suspension.
With the front lowered 1" ...and the rear lowered 1.25" it was a disaster .

With the rear lowered 1.25", the oem LCA's were no longer parallel to the ground, but 1.25" higher at axle end...= gross amounts of wheel hop. Lost it 3 times, in the wet, just going across town to the dentist and back. It would pull to the left with my foot into it, just a bit (not even into boost, not even remotely close).

Stopped right there, and in went the BMR boxed hd LCA's, adjustable BMR UCA, and BMR lca relocate brackets. Started off using the top holes in the BMR lca relocate brackets, then a year later, moved em down to the middle holes. Also installed the BMR on car, adjustable PHB..and a bunch of other stuff.
(oem lca's were trashed)

Later on, replaced the BMR adjustable PHB with a white line watts link. That stopped the skittering, when flying around bumpy corners. On the same day of the watts link install, we also installed the eaton tru trac LSD..and also the DSS-DS one piece DS.... plus the bobs motor sports catch can for the rear axle.

Oem LSD leaves a lot to be desired. Even the GT-500 carbon fiber LSD discs are semi useless at best, they will melt, resulting in the dreaded...'one wheel peel'.

Also added the BMR rear 1/4" thick steel plate, plus DS safety loop. Then installed the steeda chromolly steel triangular braces on each side of the BMR plate, so it now forms one homogenous brace from side to side...(welded and bolted). Then added the steeda rear strut brace in the truck, between the shock towers (welded in). Then a bunch more stuff to the front end.

Then rears went from 275-40-18 to 285-40-18, then 305-35-19 (MPSS on the 305's..with 28 psi on the rears). With my paltry 390 rwhp / 375 rwtq, it's a handful. Just holds in, when mashed in 2nd gear. 2nd gear in the 5r55s is 14% lower than 2nd gear in the manual. And this is with the oem 3.31 rear gear. (3rd gear in the 5r55s is 16.5% lower than 3rd gear in the manual).

So yeah, make damned sure u tweak the suspension. I learned the hard way, and did it after the fact.

With any auto... plus a PD blower, mash the gas and you get (instant boost) + tranny drops down gears = hang on for the ride.
 

DieHarder

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Rgr that. I have an M122 DOB setup on stock internals (140K on engine) so likely not pushing much more than you are. Tires are 255/45/19's Pirelli's. Best upgrade was installing Bilstein B6 w/Roush springs. Best balance for handling/comfort I've found so far. Not a track car but decent in the corners and still livable day-to-day. Mostly drive her only on the weekends.

Not sure if all of these cars have the same issue... Before suspension upgrades the back end would come around to the left/driver's side when she got loose. Now, pretty much straight ahead though like you I have an auto and have not been beating on her (much) with the high miles. She still runs well. I'd like to rebuild her with forged internals but other priorities have a higher precedence for now. Will get around to it someday.
 

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