Thinking of a Master Plan...

[eggwich del fiero]

So, this effing new guy (me) has been reading around the forums and decided to actually post his own thread rather than threadjack somebody for once.

So here we go: the more I read around, the more I keep hearing about how I need to know my end-goal before buying part one when it comes to vehicle modification. So, I'm giving you a few bullet points of details regarding what I want out of my car, and asking you how you would go about accomplishing these goals. I have some ideas of my own, but I also realize that I am kind of dumb. So help a guy out. Here's the info:

Budget: $4000 (not counting tires/rims)
Timeframe: 3 years
Vehicle: 2009 GT, MT

Goals
1. 340-370 HP (enough to beat most stock vehicles, but still practical for driving daily)
2. Naturally Aspirated
3. While I'm not going to be racing it, I want to make the car handle pretty darn well for pretty darn little. Or at least better. Just know that I'm not looking for a straightline brute, rather an all-around athlete.
4. Tires will be 255s on 17s or 18s all-around, lightweight rims but not superlightweight.
5. Her name is White Castle, if that is important to you.

Any advice appreciated. Pimp my ride!

 

[Random Asshole]

Well I just spent close to what you are lookin to do. In the last two weeks I installed an an eibach pro system plus. (Springs shocks and both bar, but only installed front cause its adjustable) ride is firmer, but very tolerable. Cuts corners like butter with my new kumho xs tires. Then installed kooks long tubes with high flow catted x and pypes mid muffs. Add a hurst short throw, c&l intake, and cc plates and its a whole new car. Beastly when you get on it, but civil if you drive like a sane person. (Hard to do when u do this all in one shot like I did)

 

[Vapour Trails]

If you looking for improve the suspension but nothing dramatic, springs, shocks and a adjustable panhard bar are all you really need, especially considering you said you don't plan to race.

Springs $225
Struts/Shocks $350-500
Panhard $150

You really don't need to touch the swaybars, they are plenty. Doing the UCA would be a nice addition and the stock LCAs will be fine.

I get a kick out of all the folks that replace 100% of the suspension before they've even pushed the car to 7/10ths of it's potential or never really plan to race it in any serious way. Don't fall into the "more must be better" suspension trap.

 

[Kaldar142]

Something a lot of mustang owners seem to skip is the alignment, which IMO is the most important part.

It's like building the hell out of your engine and running a crappy canned tune.

Most alignment places just set the camber at 0.

I can't stand it, my wrx which runs -3 upfront turns on a dime, for a street driven car I would recommnd around -1.5 as it's a middle ground between performance and tire wear.

As long as the the toe is zero'd out, tire wear will be fine. I highly recommend more camber on these cars, makes a world of difference and helps eliminate alot of understeer that these cars have.


Cliff notes; run more camber for optimal performance, -1.5 front is my suggestion

 

[danbev07]

Cliff notes; run more camber for optimal performance, -1.5 front is my suggestion

Perfect! Love the cliff notes lol.

I have a setup that ended up costing me:

Eibach Pro-Kit $50 (Friend)
GT500 Upper Strut Mounts $60
Tokico D-Spec Shocks/Struts $500
Helwig Rear Sway Bar $140
J&M Lower Control Arms $100
GT Takeoff Front Sway $40
GT Takeoff 8.8 w/ 3.55s $200

Of course, a GT would already have the last two items...

It's a start that allows you to experience better handling without venturing too far into non-DD status.

If I could do it all over again, I probably would have bought the Konis/Ground Control system.

I noticed a nice stance and some lightweight rims really made a difference too.

As much as I hate to admit it, I never got the car aligned after installing my lowering springs almost a year to date. I really need to see what it does!!!

 

[alloy6ix]

where do you find an 8.8 with 3.55s for $200????!

 

[danbev07]

where do you find an 8.8 with 3.55s for $200????!

Shop around!

Found it on Craigslist... yes it was used. Had 15K on it. Came off a car that a guy swapped a Currie 9" into in order to make his car into a more drag-worthy car.

 

[Steedman07]

$4,000 over 3 years?? Do some reading..Its not enough $$ to get you even close to 340-370 whp, and take care of your suspension needs..Im assuming you will have to pay labor on top of parts or are you installing them yourself?

 

[alloy6ix]

Shop around!

Found it on Craigslist... yes it was used. Had 15K on it. Came off a car that a guy swapped a Currie 9" into in order to make his car into a more drag-worthy car.

Haha, yeah true. Deals are always popping up on those things. One of my friends is getting one for free so now I'm jealous and on the search for one. lol.

$4,000 over 3 years?? Do some reading..Its not enough $$ to get you even close to 340-370 whp, and take care of your suspension needs..Im assuming you will have to pay labor on top of parts or are you installing them yourself?

Yeah true.. I noticed that too.. I've put over 4K in my car and that's cause I'm a broke fuck in college....

OP, don't try so much for HP numbers. If you're like me and some others, racing is a big factor, but looking for a SOTP feel from aftermarket parts is too, CAI tune gears and a few other bolt-ons like LT's and you'll be fine.

 

[alloy6ix]

Something a lot of mustang owners seem to skip is the alignment, which IMO is the most important part.

It's like building the hell out of your engine and running a crappy canned tune.

Most alignment places just set the camber at 0.

I can't stand it, my wrx which runs -3 upfront turns on a dime, for a street driven car I would recommnd around -1.5 as it's a middle ground between performance and tire wear.

As long as the the toe is zero'd out, tire wear will be fine. I highly recommend more camber on these cars, makes a world of difference and helps eliminate alot of understeer that these cars have.


Cliff notes; run more camber for optimal performance, -1.5 front is my suggestion

And thanks for that info, I'll be getting an alignment in like two weeks.

 

[eggwich del fiero]

$4,000 over 3 years?? Do some reading..Its not enough $$ to get you even close to 340-370 whp, and take care of your suspension needs..Im assuming you will have to pay labor on top of parts or are you installing them yourself?

No, I won't be installing them myself, chances are. I'm just an idiot. I guess I should be looking/hoping for around 300-310HP, but I got greedy. And like someone else said, I don't really need it much faster, especially not at the top end, I just want more grunt down low and a more engaging driving experience.

 

[alloy6ix]

No, I won't be installing them myself, chances are. I'm just an idiot. I guess I should be looking/hoping for around 300-310HP, but I got greedy. And like someone else said, I don't really need it much faster, especially not at the top end, I just want more grunt down low and a more engaging driving experience.

Na dude, you're here with some legit questions, it's all good. Most of the stuff like CAI and tune you could do yourself, but as far as handling, maybe going with the steeda handling pak or G-trac pak.

http://www.steeda.com/products/05-06_g-trac_suspension.php

http://www.steeda.com/products/05-06_handling_pak.php

talk to steeda steve as far as which one is better for you're preferences, or the FRPP handling pack. there's a thread on that here too, it's a recent one, so search it and see what you come up with. hope it helps man.

 

[marcspaz]

CAI = $400
UDP = $300
NSR Cams = $700
LT headers = $800+
Tuner = $300
Tune = $300

Total est parts cost = $2800
Est labor = $1500
Total Est Cost = $4300
Total Est RWHP = 330 to 340
Est 1/4 ET (if you can drive that manual) = 13.3 to 13.2

Fun to get around town for sure... I wouldn't race it like that though...

 

[Kaldar142]

And thanks for that info, I'll be getting an alignment in like two weeks.

me too, i plan on getting some camber plates too.

right now i'm running like -.8 camber, which is super weak sauce.

can't wait to go back to -1.5

the reason it was set at -.8 is because thats around the stock specs... i had my buddy at work do an alignment for me (for free) because it was pulling to the right, and i guess he just set everything back.

i'll have to throw it on the alignment rack myself and set things straight, haha.

I <3 negative camber, just don't go too crazy on a daily driven car.

FYI i ran -1.8 / -1.4 on my WRX for over a year and had even tire wear all around

 

[alloy6ix]

oh wow, that's crazy. I was thinking maybe 1.0, around there. And Even tire wear for that much neg camber is pretty good on the WRX, I want an 07 Sti soo bad... haha.

 

[Thinkkker]

Does everyone know that the Ford Service Manual states that the way to get more camber is to slot the strut? I ran -1.8/-1.9 *I just maxed it out* on my car since I had 5000 miles on it. 30000 later and I am finally getting down on the tires.

I had toe set at -1/8" overall too.

Just as a handling FYI, I could not get my car to turn in for anything when stock. I got a adjustable sway and set it at full stiff and no more issues.

 

[chad05gt]

Cause ain't nothin but sweat inside my hand...

sorry, got sidetracked w/ nostalgia!

 

[alloy6ix]

Does everyone know that the Ford Service Manual states that the way to get more camber is to slot the strut? I ran -1.8/-1.9 *I just maxed it out* on my car since I had 5000 miles on it. 30000 later and I am finally getting down on the tires.

I had toe set at -1/8" overall too.

Just as a handling FYI, I could not get my car to turn in for anything when stock. I got a adjustable sway and set it at full stiff and no more issues.

Hey dude, what do you mean by slot the strut? And also how much were those wheels, those things look bad ass!!

 

[Dragon]

I recommend you start with dampers such as adjustable Koni or Tokico's. You will be really surprised what a difference they make. The should not run more than $750 - less if you get the Tokico. If you plan on ever doing the springs, I would install them at the same time.

 

[Kaldar142]

Just wanted to add to the whole alignment thing...

I just re-aligned my car at work yesterday, went from -0.6 camber upfront to -1.6 upfront.

WOW, HUGE HUGE HUGE difference.

90% of my understeer is GONE, i would of gone more aggressive but i drive the car everyday so i didnt want to go overboard.

Definitely a GREAT improvement, i should of done it sooner.

For those of you who hate how crappy our cars turn in, run some negative camber!! the car is much more responsive and stable in the turns.