Threw the belt, engine heat up

[1950StangJump$]

All,

I think I'm okay, but interested in the opinions from the 3v experts here.

Brenspeed B326 with a VMP Gen3. Went WOT and threw the belt (reason irrelevant for this question).

When I lost power steering, I knew immediately what happened. As I was close to home, I turned around and limped back. Looking at my Aeroforce gauge, I saw engine temps get to 244 when I shut the motor down and coasted the rest of the way.

I don't know how long it was hot, but time from belt throw to shut down was roughly 2 minutes. Certainly no more than 3 minutes.

I'm confident in the fix for the belt throw. But, I'm paranoid about my very expensive engine. Opinions on whether that temp and time is a big deal? Note, it did spray coolant out of the reservoir, but I'm told the caps are prone to "pop" early. The factory gauge never registered a problem.

 

[eighty6gt]

she gone

 

[1950StangJump$]

Just when I thought this forum is as better than Facebook for valid advice

 

[msvela448]

Touching 244 for a minute or two isn't too bad. Besides... What difference does it make?... If you get "she gone" replies on this forum are you going to take it out and rebuild it?.... No, I doubt you are. Just drive it like normal. If everything is fine... then.... Everything is fine. If it doesn't run fine.... Then you have the answer... "she gone". [emoji3577]

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[MrAwesome987]

Its fine. I had the same thing happen to my car on the highway. I babied it to the nearest exit and to a parking lot. By the time I got there, it had been pegged on the factory gauge for at least 5 minutes. (I don't know what temp it actually hit). I slapped a new belt on it and have been driving it just like normal for at least 1000-1500 miles. And it did spray coolant everywhere.

 

[MrBhp]

Doubtful you've caused any permanent damage. Unless you were sitting at a stop light for an extended time. But then your temps would have gone much higher. 244 shouldn't kill an engine, unless you were running a skinny ring piston, which you're not.
Now, if that would have been an LS, yeah she gone.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

All,

I think I'm okay, but interested in the opinions from the 3v experts here.

Brenspeed B326 with a VMP Gen3. Went WOT and threw the belt (reason irrelevant for this question).

When I lost power steering, I knew immediately what happened. As I was close to home, I turned around and limped back. Looking at my Aeroforce gauge, I saw engine temps get to 244 when I shut the motor down and coasted the rest of the way.

I don't know how long it was hot, but time from belt throw to shut down was roughly 2 minutes. Certainly no more than 3 minutes.

I'm confident in the fix for the belt throw. But, I'm paranoid about my very expensive engine. Opinions on whether that temp and time is a big deal? Note, it did spray coolant out of the reservoir, but I'm told the caps are prone to "pop" early. The factory gauge never registered a problem.

Don't sweat it. The temp. was still under 250*F (120*C), the engine (more importantly the cylinder heads) still had coolant, and you shut the engine down quickly. Your biggest concern would have been warped heads or a blown head gasket since the block (cast iron) and heads (aluminium) are of dissimilar metals that expand at different rates. If your coolant levels remain stable, the engine oil hasn't emulsified into a chocolate milkshake due to coolant mixing, and there's no steam coming from either tailpipe (except from a cold start on cold damp days), I'd say you're good.
The coolant reservoir cap is rated to 16psi, which should raise the boiling point of the coolant by 48*F. That would make it 260*F if it was pure water and the cap was new. Your cap may have popped early but like I said, as long as you had coolant inside the engine rather than steam pockets, the engine's much less likely to have suffered any harm.

 

[1950StangJump$]

Don't sweat it. The temp. was still under 250*F (120*C), the engine (more importantly the cylinder heads) still had coolant, and you shut the engine down quickly. Your biggest concern would have been warped heads or a blown head gasket since the block (cast iron) and heads (aluminium) are of dissimilar metals that expand at different rates. If your coolant levels remain stable, the engine oil hasn't emulsified into a chocolate milkshake due to coolant mixing, and there's no steam coming from either tailpipe (except from a cold start on cold damp days), I'd say you're good.
The coolant reservoir cap is rated to 16psi, which should raise the boiling point of the coolant by 48*F. That would make it 260*F if it was pure water and the cap was new. Your cap may have popped early but like I said, as long as you had coolant inside the engine rather than steam pockets, the engine's much less likely to have suffered any harm.

Thanks, all.

It looks like there was still an inch of coolant left at the bottom of the reservoir - enough to cover 95% of the discharge port to the radiator. I haven't restarted the motor (need to fix the reason the belt was thrown), but filling up the coolant reservoir didn't get any bubbles like it needed to make its way into the radiator, ie lost additional coolant.

 

[Laga]

If the temp gauge was 240°F, there were areas of the engine hotter than this. The oil that came in contact with these areas could have been compromised. Be sure to change it before you start the engine again. Cheap insurance.

 

[07 Boss]

Just another reason to go electric. I've thrown my belt and driven 20 miles to get home.

 

[MrAwesome987]

Just another reason to go electric. I've thrown my belt and driven 20 miles to get home.

I agree.. this is on my list to do...

 

[1950StangJump$]

If the temp gauge was 240°F, there were areas of the engine hotter than this. The oil that came in contact with these areas could have been compromised. Be sure to change it before you start the engine again. Cheap insurance.

You're wondering if the oil got cooked (as opposed to contaminated with coolant)? Oil continued to circulate until I shut down the motor, and my oil temp gauge stayed cool for the short period I was running. I get what you mean about cheap insurance though.

I almost ended up with an electric pump when I had the motor built - even ordered it at first and changed my mind. It has its detractors and, unless you get a model with a dummy idler, it means less crank wrap

 

[scramblr]

Just another reason to go electric. I've thrown my belt and driven 20 miles to get home.

Yep, but have an extra relay and fuses in hand. I just blew the relay last week and my aeroforce threw the temp alarm (set to 240). I shut it down and pulled into a parking lot. All fuses were fine, so swaped the relay and all was well. Have had the 20A fuse blow before as well.

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[1950StangJump$]

Yep, but have an extra relay and fuses in hand. I just blew the relay last week and my aeroforce threw the temp alarm (set to 240). I shut it down and pulled into a parking lot. All fuses were fine, so swaped the relay and all was well. Have had the 20A fuse blow before as well.

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Lose any coolant out of your reservoir cap at that temperature?

 

[scramblr]

A little, yes. Moroso tank with stock cap.


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[1950StangJump$]

A little, yes. Moroso tank with stock cap.


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Thanks. Looks like I lost most of the reservoir coolant.

 

[Pentalab]

Yep, but have an extra relay and fuses in hand. I just blew the relay last week and my aeroforce threw the temp alarm (set to 240). I shut it down and pulled into a parking lot. All fuses were fine, so swaped the relay and all was well. Have had the 20A fuse blow before as well.

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Why would the relay..and also the 20A fuse blow at random..on the electric water pump ?

 

[msvela448]

The relay and / or fuse can go bad if:

1. the draw goes over 20A... Or
2. if the sustained draw is very close to 20A for too long.

Get a relay with a higher rating like 30A...and use 10ga wire for the power and ground.

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[Pentalab]

The relay and / or fuse can go bad if:

1. the draw goes over 20A... Or
2. if the sustained draw is very close to 20A for too long.

Get a relay with a higher rating like 30A...and use 10ga wire for the power and ground.

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And a mating 25 / 30 amp fuse. 40 Amp relays will fit..and are the same price. That + 10 ga wire, solid connections, and that would increase reliability.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

According to Meziere's website, the EWP 346 for the Modular 4.6 is supposed to have an 11-12 amp draw in normal use.

https://www.meziere.com/Products/Co...d/Electric-Pump-Ford-Modular-with-Pulley.aspx

If it's drawing 20+ amps, something's wrong and is causing extra drag on the pump motor e.g. bad pump bearings.