To change timing chain or not change it, that is the question

Midlife Crises

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What are you talking about? I said nothing that agrees with you. OP said he has 150K miles on the engine. Much more than my 18K. He’s changing cams and that’s a good opportunity to install a new timing set. Ford Performance has a damn nice kit just for that job and another kit will take care of the followers and lash adjusters. When I installed the new followers in my 2010 they were different than the ones I took out. May be just the oil hole or may be more to it. Not worried about it. Another thing I noticed was the gear on the crank slid right off when I pulled on it. I could rock it back and forth by hand do to slop in the keyway. The new Ford gear was much more snug.
Do the job right and replace the worn parts while your in there.:)
 

TANN3R_

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Midlife Crises: eighty6gt answered my question, not the author of this topic.. And I have "only" 80k miles.

I understand both ways - replacement of only damaged parts, or just about everything while I'm there. Because I have still relatively low mileage and not much visible damage on timing components (except the tensioners) I would like to change only tensioners and leave alone rest of timing components, until I reach somewhere around 150k miles.
Plus, if there's no chain slap during start up due to bad tensioner, I think the guides and other components will last longer.

I'm going to order set of tensioners from Melling, because I did not find any complaints about their quality. I will hope this is the right decision:)

In the future, I will get tools for valve springs (to remove roller folowers), locking tools for camshaft and the complete timing kit from Ford Performance.

upload_2021-2-10_7-24-18.png
 

Dino Dino Bambino

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If the existing timing chain guides show little or no wear, I'm sure you'll be fine for a few thousand more miles by just changing the tensioners.
 

Juice

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You can view cam angle errors in Forscan well before any problem manifests. For example, I see a .1* error reading on one cam. Yes, point one degree. And the limit is 10-ish degrees before it would trip a fault IIRC. Once I see that error increase, than I will pull the cover. At this time, since it has been the same for 4 years, I belive this is due to a machining tolerance and not wear of the chain. 100k+ miles and run hard.
 

2526Bullitt

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Talking about bringing a post back from the dead....@Tanner3R the ford racing kit contained all the timing components as other members stated but to answer your question melling is a respectable company that has been out there for many years...im sure everything will be ok
 

eighty6gt

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The only thing I really miss about how my Bullitt originally was set up is the OEM wheels - they wore out - clear was flaking and nicks and dings all over, was wayyyy more expensive to fix them than to just get AM wheels.

Some day I'll get some real 2 piece american racing jobs, so I can run the correct offset and clear the brakes.
 

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