Tsb 11-07-07

BAKnBLK2010

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yup and if your motor is blown, you cant drive anywhere to clear it lol


What about doing the reflash back to stock then draining the battery by leaving the lights on until the battery goes completely dead trick? Will that lead to the P 1000 code?
 

94tbird

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it should since the motor never ran to clear and set the readyness codes.
 

Riptide

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Yep ford is paying closer attention. And with the 3v cars it was tougher to tell if an aftermarket tune had been loaded.

Would be cool to get some thoughts on this topic from a aftermarket tuner.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatwat
 

KungFuHamster

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now here's perhaps a dumb idea, but its something that just came to me.

what about running a set of colder plugs? shouldnt that allow for the increase in timing with less chance of detonation? just like with a power adder car?
 

BAKnBLK2010

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now here's perhaps a dumb idea, but its something that just came to me.

what about running a set of colder plugs? shouldnt that allow for the increase in timing with less chance of detonation? just like with a power adder car?


Sounds plausible to me. Makes sense when you think about it.
 

ngnichols

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Pretty simple deal here: make sure your tuner isn't turning off or messing with your knock sensors.

They are there for a reason. I've never understood running canned tunes because EVERY car is different. An actual dyno or street tune using a wideband and actual real-time data logging is the ONLY real way to get the correct tune for YOUR car. Otherwise, you are just getting someone else's "best guess." I'll pass on that considering the price of these cars.
 

2010GT

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I have a scenario for you all.... What if said person had modded their 5.0 then switched it all back to stock and traded it in, and then some one purchased said 5.0 and left it bone stock but had the #8 issue. Is this person that purchased the car going to get shafted on thier warrenty for something that the original owner did to the car?

Next question.... which has alittle to do with original question. Will ford run a scan to look for said p1000 code before they accept the car for a trade in, and if they find that code, will it DESTROY said trade in value for the car since the Drivetrain warrenty will be voided?? These questions weigh heavy on my mind.....
 

BAKnBLK2010

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I have a scenario for you all.... What if said person had modded their 5.0 then switched it all back to stock and traded it in, and then some one purchased said 5.0 and left it bone stock but had the #8 issue. Is this person that purchased the car going to get shafted on thier warrenty for something that the original owner did to the car?

Next question.... which has alittle to do with original question. Will ford run a scan to look for said p1000 code before they accept the car for a trade in, and if they find that code, will it DESTROY said trade in value for the car since the Drivetrain warrenty will be voided?? These questions weigh heavy on my mind.....


It's my understanding the P1000 code goes away with a couple hundred miles of driving so this wouldn't be an issue.
 

fdjizm

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Pretty simple deal here: make sure your tuner isn't turning off or messing with your knock sensors.

They are there for a reason. I've never understood running canned tunes because EVERY car is different. An actual dyno or street tune using a wideband and actual real-time data logging is the ONLY real way to get the correct tune for YOUR car. Otherwise, you are just getting someone else's "best guess." I'll pass on that considering the price of these cars.

The ford oem tune is a canned tune, they don't dyno factory cars and make sure they are going to a certain state with certain air or customize the tune for THAT specific car.
I will say fords 'best guess' is definitely the safest, though it's still a canned tune.
 

tbi0904

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I kinda figured Ford was going to do something like this. I can't really blame them. Nearly all supposed #8 issues I've seen on the forums have had tunes. Tuners (and Ford) have commented on how complex copperhead is, it doesn't surprise me that some tunes have been less than ideal. What really sucks is that guys with bad tunes pop #8 and try to get Ford to replace their motor, which screws the guy with a legitimate stock engine issue. Then these same guys come on the forums and create hysteria. Some of the forums are pretty melodramatic on this same topic. Thankfully this isn't one of them.
 

2010GT

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It's my understanding the P1000 code goes away with a couple hundred miles of driving so this wouldn't be an issue.


So you are saying drive the car a couple hundred miles after you have returned it to stock before you go and trade it in and it will not hurt the value of the car?
 

Rob72

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There has been at least one issue with a person reporting a #8 failure with the FRPP calibration. The dealer installed it and Ford is honoring his warranty of course. If I have understood it correctly the dealer cannot tell if the PCM has been flashed after a drive cycle has passed. Ford is asking them to send it back to them where as they can definitely tell how many times it has been flashed.
 
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ngnichols

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The ford oem tune is a canned tune, they don't dyno factory cars and make sure they are going to a certain state with certain air or customize the tune for THAT specific car.
I will say fords 'best guess' is definitely the safest, though it's still a canned tune.

They dyno test multiple engines to come up with a tune that will give the best performance while still meeting EPA guidelines and other regs. They put a tune in that can handle a wide range of operating conditions. That's not canned.

Tuners are making them for specific conditions and circumstances with a cookie-cutter mentality and that causes issues when people/tuners go too far. Obviously some have done that to a point to where it has caused severe engine damage.
 

JEWC_Motorsports

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What happens if the dealer is the one installing the aftermarket components and the engine lets go?
 

Entrenched

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If you don't want a dynotune, why wouldn't you datalog your car. Most people have a laptop, SCT software is pretty user friendly, and you can log a/f, knock event, spark advance, etc. and see how "good" your tune is. When I had my SCT canned tune and Lund/Lethal tune, I made tons of datalogs. For reference, the SCT tune commands 12.5 a/f and Lund's tune commands 13.0 a/f with a couple of degrees more timing. I've never logged a knock event with either tune. While dialing in the tune for my Procharger, I was constantly monitoring the knock events and Rick never touched the knock sensors.
 

RazorbackMustang

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And my thoughts are reaffirmed. Don't get a tune unless you want to be out of pocket in the case of a failure! These new engines and PCMs are just really complex. It's going to take the tuners several years to get the hang of it.
 

silver08

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I think i told a bunch of other guys on another post that the mode 6 and mode 9 will screw you every time! if you want power and have a warrenty install a for racing supercharger. i dont think it will void the warrenty.
 

Bmr4life

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Looks like I won't be getting a tune for a while, good thing these cars are already damn fast stock.
 

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