turbo question

[onequicktang]

I have pypes long tubes. Im looking at the on3 turbo kit with all the upgrades. My question is since these pypes are not actual long tubes more like mid tubes im thinking i can modify the on3 header pipe to work with the headers instead of manifolds. Has anyone seen or done this before?

 

[Kuro!]

Friend of mine did a single 67 setup on his 03 GT, and attempted to modify the kit to fit his lts but ended up just scrapping the idea due to the amount of fabrication required. It's a lot easier to just put some stock headers on and install the kit.

 

[GT33]

Which turbo are you planning to upgrade to?

 

[08nastygt]

You would have to measure it out correctly. The on3 kits pipe comes off the header and wraps back to a Y looking pipe. So you have would have to either make something that would connect the pypes to it. Or cut the pipe that comes with the kit and flare it. Then you would have the do the passenger side also. Honestly I would just try and sell the headers be more work than necassary. By the time you get all your measurments from both sides and actually get to fabing wouldn't be worth it. Plus everything has to line up pretty damn near perfect.

 

[fdjizm]

You can get stock manifolds for like 50 bucks, and also the turbo likes the heat better from the stock manifolds.

 

[RetroGT2006]

^that is one thing i never understood when people use turbo blankets n what not.. Making it heat up even more would cause heat soak right?? The cooler it runs, the more power... I don't see the purpose of turbo blankets? Explain it to me people bc within 6+ months or so i will be done building my kit.

 

[fdjizm]

^that is one thing i never understood when people use turbo blankets n what not.. Making it heat up even more would cause heat soak right?? The cooler it runs, the more power... I don't see the purpose of turbo blankets? Explain it to me people bc within 6+ months or so i will be done building my kit.

The cooler the intake side runs the more power, the hotter the exhaust runs the more power for the turbo under load.

Something along those lines.

 

[JeremyH]

I have pypes long tubes. Im looking at the on3 turbo kit with all the upgrades. My question is since these pypes are not actual long tubes more like mid tubes im thinking i can modify the on3 header pipe to work with the headers instead of manifolds. Has anyone seen or done this before?

No! It will be an absolute nightmare to make it work and thats with all the right tools to cut/bend/re-weld the piping. Fitment is tough enough as it is.

Its also pointless.

Sell the longtubes and get stock manifolds or some ceramic/jet-hot coated shorties. They will still hold in some heat but help flow in the upper rpms/higher boost.

^that is one thing i never understood when people use turbo blankets n what not.. Making it heat up even more would cause heat soak right?? The cooler it runs, the more power... I don't see the purpose of turbo blankets? Explain it to me people bc within 6+ months or so i will be done building my kit.

Heat blankets have thier pro and cons. They keep the engine bay alot cooler as well as keep the hotside of the turbo hotter to promote a little faster spool. However the extra heat kept in the trubo can cut the life of the turbo/seals down some.

The cooler the intake side runs the more power, the hotter the exhaust runs the more power for the turbo under load.

Something along those lines.

Not exactly, yes of course you want the intake side to run cool. But you dont just want the hot/exhaust side to be hot to help spool. Its a balance between temp and flow for the exhuast pre-turbo. You need some heat as hot air expands and moves faster, but cooler air is denser and will create more load for the turbo which in turn makes it more efficient and spool better as well.

I disagree with the blanket statement or thought that stock manifolds are best beacause they hold in more heat. The reason they hold in heat is beacuse they are restrictive as hell under boost/full spool. The exhuast is bottled down at the header which slows the exhuast down, makes it hotter. Id rather have the flow/scavenging of a shorty or tuned length shorty header that promotes less heat/more flow when the exhuast leaves the heads and then the air has more energy/is cooler and gets bottled down at the turbo for good spool instead. Theres a reason for turbo headers/manifold on custom builds where the runners all merge at a collecter right where the turbo is mounted, promotes flow/cooler denser air and allows for scavenging right before its bottle down in the turbo exhuast housing to spool the turbo.

 

[jodadejss06gt]

I would say scrap the long tube headers like the other have said also. I'm rolling on the stockers.

Jeremy while we are on this topic, I'd like you to post up your boost vs rpm of say your early dynos and I'll do the same for my first one at 8psi. That way we can compare the blanket/headers vs no blanket/stock manifolds to see if there is much of a differance. I know there are other aspects such as the way the exhaust is run and different kits, but either way it would be nice to look at.

 

[ChevyKiller]

No! It will be an absolute nightmare to make it work and thats with all the right tools to cut/bend/re-weld the piping. Fitment is tough enough as it is.

Its also pointless.

Sell the longtubes and get stock manifolds or some ceramic/jet-hot coated shorties. They will still hold in some heat but help flow in the upper rpms/higher boost.

Heat blankets have thier pro and cons. They keep the engine bay alot cooler as well as keep the hotside of the turbo hotter to promote a little faster spool. However the extra heat kept in the trubo can cut the life of the turbo/seals down some.

Not exactly, yes of course you want the intake side to run cool. But you dont just want the hot/exhaust side to be hot to help spool. Its a balance between temp and flow for the exhuast pre-turbo. You need some heat as hot air expands and moves faster, but cooler air is denser and will create more load for the turbo which in turn makes it more efficient and spool better as well.

I disagree with the blanket statement or thought that stock manifolds are best beacause they hold in more heat. The reason they hold in heat is beacuse they are restrictive as hell under boost/full spool. The exhuast is bottled down at the header which slows the exhuast down, makes it hotter. Id rather have the flow/scavenging of a shorty or tuned length shorty header that promotes less heat/more flow when the exhuast leaves the heads and then the air has more energy/is cooler and gets bottled down at the turbo for good spool instead. Theres a reason for turbo headers/manifold on custom builds where the runners all merge at a collecter right where the turbo is mounted, promotes flow/cooler denser air and allows for scavenging right before its bottle down in the turbo exhuast housing to spool the turbo.

Exactly why I made custom headers for my set-up... best of both worlds...

The true key to any powerplant is FLOW - UNRESTRICTED FLOW at that. The faster and less restricted you can make airflow - the more power/less heat you are going to get - drag 101

 

[Kuro!]

God im so jelly of that turbo set up...

 

[fdjizm]

Not exactly, yes of course you want the intake side to run cool. But you dont just want the hot/exhaust side to be hot to help spool. Its a balance between temp and flow for the exhuast pre-turbo. You need some heat as hot air expands and moves faster, but cooler air is denser and will create more load for the turbo which in turn makes it more efficient and spool better as well.

I disagree with the blanket statement or thought that stock manifolds are best beacause they hold in more heat. The reason they hold in heat is beacuse they are restrictive as hell under boost/full spool. The exhuast is bottled down at the header which slows the exhuast down, makes it hotter. Id rather have the flow/scavenging of a shorty or tuned length shorty header that promotes less heat/more flow when the exhuast leaves the heads and then the air has more energy/is cooler and gets bottled down at the turbo for good spool instead. Theres a reason for turbo headers/manifold on custom builds where the runners all merge at a collecter right where the turbo is mounted, promotes flow/cooler denser air and allows for scavenging right before its bottle down in the turbo exhuast housing to spool the turbo.

Don't be embarassing me in front of the internet.

 

[onequicktang]

i have the stock manifolds. i ran frpp shorties on the hellion kit. I dont see why it would be hard at all. Just cut out the 4-5inches in the pipe that the long tubes make and weld it back together. i guess I'll have to get the kit then decide. long tubes flow well so should get faster spool up was my thinking. I will upgrade to the mp 70 as I didn't like the 76mm I had with the hellion kit.

 

[onequicktang]

i think chevy killers set up might only be slightly shorter than the pypes. Looks like what im wanting to do just with my shit facing the back like normal.

 

[Bobby]

your spool will be slower because you will loose heat from the tubes and how long the pipes are to the turbo unlike chevykiller's set up that faces forward and is closer to the turbos. als get the pipes coated inside and out along with the turbo exhaust side and get a turbo blanket. that will help with spool up more then any thing

 

[jodadejss06gt]

Here is my chart, I don't have my most recent dyno file. This is the origional one when I made 417/445

 

[Nastystang06]

I need to post my dyno sheet i made 440 hp 480trq on 5 psi.... with a built 289 pp heads and blower cams it wouldnt be hard to adapt the kit to the headers at all.... a local exhaust shop could probably do it cheap .... i got quoted 150 to rerout the pipes that hang low through a tubular k member

 

[JeremyH]

Don't be embarassing me in front of the internet.

LOL.

 

[JeremyH]

i have the stock manifolds. i ran frpp shorties on the hellion kit. I dont see why it would be hard at all. Just cut out the 4-5inches in the pipe that the long tubes make and weld it back together. i guess I'll have to get the kit then decide. long tubes flow well so should get faster spool up was my thinking. I will upgrade to the mp 70 as I didn't like the 76mm I had with the hellion kit.

Longtubes runners are designed to merge at a certain point to allow for exhuast pulse scavenging. Thats the reason behind the different runner legnths based on firing oreder, which yields flow/power. By hacking up the header and changing the merge point you are most likely messing that up up.

Why put in the effort/$$$ to have some one hack up longtube headers when you can just sell them and use that money to buy some tuned length shorties and ceramic coat them.

My personal favorties are the jba's

 

[Germeezy3]

Why reinvent the wheel for more headache and not much if any more power. Long tube headers are designed to promote cylinder scavenging and exhaust flow on N/A builds. The beauty of turbo's is you can take a combo that won't even run N/A and make a ton of power.