Upgrading from 6 pt bar to 8.50 cage

[swflastang05]

I brought her home last night and started putting everything back together today (extremely slowly, it's much easier to take it all apart of course). I mounted the PCM using some strap brackets welded to the dash bars and firewall, it's rock solid now. Next I'm getting ready for paint, which will be a PITA no doubt, one of my least favorite things to do. Here's some pics:

 

[swflastang05]

I attempted to paint it over the weekend, but it turned out like shit. The scrap pipe I painted turned out great, but the actual cage looks terrible the wrinkle paint didn't wrinkle consistently. I think I'm going to have to sand it back down and start over. Otherwise it will bother me forever. At first I thought I could live with it, but I don't think so now.

 

[psfracer]

Yeah, fuck that -- gloss black with some carbon protectors over the door bars (unless you have swing outs). It did look good on your test piece though.

 

[swflastang05]

Yeah, fuck that -- gloss black with some carbon protectors over the door bars (unless you have swing outs). It did look good on your test piece though.

For sure, that's exactly what I'm doing this time, gloss black with CF covers. I'll be using VHT roll cage and chassis paint, supposedly a tougher finish. No matter what it will look 100x better than it did. I saw a car at the track a couple months ago with the wrinkle paint on the cage and it looked good, but not so much on mine. I did manage to get it back down to bare metal over the past couple nights. Now I just need to go over it with some 320 grit then clean the shit out of it with acetone and I'll be ready to paint again. What an incredible PITFA!

 

[redfirepearlgt]

The cage fab looks great. I agree with above, some gloss black or a matte black would look very nice. Most of it ends up having to be wrapped in foam around the driver anyway though right?

 

[travelers]

That's a bitch doing all that work and not turn out right. Then have to sand if off and do it all again. But it will look good.

 

[swflastang05]

The cage fab looks great. I agree with above, some gloss black or a matte black would look very nice. Most of it ends up having to be wrapped in foam around the driver anyway though right?

Yes I believe you are correct, any bars that the driver can come in contact with while strapped in must be padded.

That's a bitch doing all that work and not turn out right. Then have to sand if off and do it all again. But it will look good.

You ain't kidding! Time and money, the struggle of my life!

 

[psfracer]

Yes I believe you are correct, any bars that the driver can come in contact with while strapped in must be padded.

Correct -- and it can't be the "pool noodle" padding either, it has to be SFI rated to pass tech. Plus I would do that for any street car that has a cage and is street driven--because if you get into an accident you don't want your head hitting bars of course.

 

[swflastang05]

I finally successfully painted the cage, and it came out excellent this time! That VHT rollbar and chassis paint is really good stuff. Three coats of gloss black, dried overnight, and spent all day today reinstalling the interior, which is tons of fun of course getting everything to fit around the new bars. It was a ton of work, but it came out really good, I'm very pleased with it. Now I just need to get that shiny silver sticker!





And done! Now you can see why the side bars were bent, they looked kind of funky at first but now I love them.






I still need to finish the window net, the one I have is a little too small, I may just have one custom made. And since I cannot use my pillar gauge pod anymore I got a couple of those Roush gauge pods, they came out pretty good too.

 

[travelers]

The roll bar looks 200% better. I always like the gage pod in the middle. I don't think you have anything to worry about the silver sticker......

 

[swflastang05]

The roll bar looks 200% better. I always like the gage pod in the middle. I don't think you have anything to worry about the silver sticker......

Thanks, and thanks! I'll find out the next time an NHRA inspector will be present at a local track event.

 

[travelers]

Thanks, and thanks! I'll find out the next time an NHRA inspector will be present at a local track event.

We have to have the Cuda recertified, we just have the inspector come to the shop and do it there. I forget what it costs for him to stop by.

 

[roberts]

That looks badass!!!


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[psfracer]

We have to have the Cuda recertified, we just have the inspector come to the shop and do it there. I forget what it costs for him to stop by.

Yep since I live in So Cal -- the inspector here will actually make house calls. I had him come by the house and re-cert my 8.50 cage for $200.

 

[swflastang05]

I've heard the inspector will come to me for $250, I may end up doing that depending how long it will be before he'll be at my local track again. I'd rather save the $250 though and get it done for free if I can, we'll see how it goes.

 

[travelers]

That 200. sounds about right. Some times it's more about convenience.

 

[swflastang05]

That looks badass!!!


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How did yours turn out? Pics?

 

[swflastang05]

That 200. sounds about right. Some times it's more about convenience.

True, I would only do the track thing if I was going there anyway, I'm in no hurry to get it done since I still don't have a motor in my car lol.

 

[roberts]

How did yours turn out? Pics?

I'll shoot you some tomorrow. It turned out good couple things I wish I would of done different


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[psfracer]

I've heard the inspector will come to me for $250, I may end up doing that depending how long it will be before he'll be at my local track again. I'd rather save the $250 though and get it done for free if I can, we'll see how it goes.

So the actual cert will still cost you money--at least in Socal it would, even if you are at the track. It will cost a lot less though, since you would be going to them. I am not sure how much less though.