W3bb3r04 build thread

[skwerl]

I've read here before that sand blasting the valve covers can create issues due to not being able to get all the sand out. I'm sorry.

 

[RetroGT2006]

Man that sucks!! Wish you didn't have to go through this build again.. Good luck this time around. Keep us posted man!

 

[BruceH]

I've never bought into the government conspiracy mpg theory. IMO if 5w-30 gave better protection then it would also give better mpg due to less resistance. I know that Australia didn't have 5w-20 available until about a year ago and now that they do it's speced in new cars.

10w combined with a high pressure pump and .001" clearance could result in less oil flow and more wear during cold motor operation. I don't have the testing equipment to measure the differences. I do know that modular motors are well known for longevity and reliability so following what the manufacturer recommends isn't hurting them imo. Like you it's just an opinion from me, someone without a fluid dynamics background, lol. The motors I've torn down all looked good after running 5w-20. I'm sure that you have seen many more torn down motor bearings than I have.

I don't know what to think, not experienced enough, the only thing I know is that all the engines we bought from two very reputable engine builders had stock tolerances assembled with new parts and we only ever used 10W30 per their request. I don't buy the 5W20 thing when the same Ford told customers outside the US (who can get any oil they want, as we did back then) to use 30 oil instead. When you got a new mustang in latin america, the original manual said 5W30 instead of 5W20 (I can scan it for you if you want).Also, local Ford, always serviced 3Vs in F-150/Explorer and mustang with Motorcraft blend 5W30. And finally, 5.4 4V engines use the same clearance spec of the 3V in rod/main bearing to crank and comes with 5W50.

I've never used in a customer car or mine 5W20, never.

But as I said, I am not experienced enough. So, only my .02.

Probably a 10W was not good in current weather? maybe, I don't know.

What I think is that if mains are good, don't think it was an oil issue.

Looks rods are toast now so don't how effective would it be to measure them. I would get boss rods or manley turn the crankshaft and plastigauge them at install and sort them.

 

[go302]

^^^ my crank journals and bearings were immaculate after 50k miles of routine 5w20

 

[lito]

I've never bought into the government conspiracy mpg theory. IMO if 5w-30 gave better protection then it would also give better mpg due to less resistance. I know that Australia didn't have 5w-20 available until about a year ago and now that they do it's speced in new cars.

10w combined with a high pressure pump and .001" clearance could result in less oil flow and more wear during cold motor operation. I don't have the testing equipment to measure the differences. I do know that modular motors are well known for longevity and reliability so following what the manufacturer recommends isn't hurting them imo. Like you it's just an opinion from me, someone without a fluid dynamics background, lol. The motors I've torn down all looked good after running 5w-20. I'm sure that you have seen many more torn down motor bearings than I have.

That is good, the thing that I think we agree on is that neither the 30 would have done this not the 20 would kill other motors.

I have a different requirements locally too because we don't have winter weather ever, our seasons are dry or wet, that's all.

And I think you have built more engines that I've ever done, lol.

That sand stuff is big game changer, really sorry to see that.

Between you and Dark_horse, owe me quite some hours of good sleep, lol.

 

[W3bb3r04]

That is good, the thing that I think we agree on is that neither the 30 would have done this not the 20 would kill other motors.

I have a different requirements locally too because we don't have winter weather ever, our seasons are dry or wet, that's all.

And I think you have built more engines that I've ever done, lol.

That sand stuff is big game changer, really sorry to see that.

Between you and Dark_horse, owe me quite some hours of good sleep, lol.

Sorry man! Yeah Im thinking the sand was definitely the cause. Running sand through a motor cant be good.

 

[lito]

Sorry man! Yeah Im thinking the sand was definitely the cause. Running sand through a motor cant be good.

J/K I would prefer spending a few nights awake before you having to go thru this all over again.

 

[Bobby]

That's why you are suppose to degrease the part after blasting it. We always make sure to do this and you should always do this again when you get a part back just to make sure it's all out. Just use a little dawn dish detergent

 

[W3bb3r04]

J/K I would prefer spending a few nights awake before you having to go thru this all over again.

I appreciate it! Luckily it didnt lock the motor up or blow it up. It can definitely be fixed.

 

[W3bb3r04]

That's why you are suppose to degrease the part after blasting it. We always make sure to do this and you should always do this again when you get a part back just to make sure it's all out. Just use a little dawn dish detergent

Thanks for the tip Bobby. Im probably just going to remove the baffle to clean it to insure that it doesnt happen again.

 

[Bobby]

Depends on the blasting material they use. The oil hold the material on there. Glass bead is the worst. Black iron oxide is the best IMO

 

[skwerl]

I'd be afraid to use them again. I think I'd be buying new valve covers if I were in your shoes. I've also read about issues with removing the baffles and getting them secured again. This is why I forfeited the idea of coating mine and bought new FRPP valve covers instead. No headaches, all new hardware and gaskets, clean and perfect straight out of the box.

 

[Bobby]

Or just have them painted by a reputable body shop. Or send them to a good shop that does it right.

 

[Torched S197]

Hate to see that after all the work you put in. If you want some stock valve covers I still have mine laying around in the garage

 

[W3bb3r04]

Not sure what route I'm going to go. I have a lot of time into these getting AN fittings into the covers so I'll probably just remove the baffle and run it like that. I may have to empty the catch can more often but Atleast I'll be 100% sure it's clean

 

[Dark_horse]

Lito if you lived closer I would take you out to dinner for sure man... On the oil topic... I have been running Joe Gibbs Driven LS30 with no issues what so ever... And after 2000 miles not a single drop of oil in my catch can... RJ my motor is out of the car as well and I feel your pain... luckily it looks like mine was just a follower failure... Heads are going to my builder tomorrow to be completely gone through...


On a separate note it looks like I will be building a fuel system.. which one did you end up going with?

 

[W3bb3r04]

Lito if you lived closer I would take you out to dinner for sure man... On the oil topic... I have been running Joe Gibbs Driven LS30 with no issues what so ever... And after 2000 miles not a single drop of oil in my catch can... RJ my motor is out of the car as well and I feel your pain... luckily it looks like mine was just a follower failure... Heads are going to my builder tomorrow to be completely gone through...


On a separate note it looks like I will be building a fuel system.. which one did you end up going with?

Thanks man. I pieced one together using a mix of FORE components and Aeromotive. Personally for the ease I would go with a Full FORE system. Im running the rails in parallel like the FORE 1800 kit.

What Catch can set up are you running Bobby? Im thinking of pulling the other baffle and running it as is so I can get the all the sand out and still run my AN fittings.

 

[Dark_horse]

I have the moroso breather tank... dual in

 

[W3bb3r04]

I have the moroso breather tank... dual in

Okay sweet. Im running an Allstar performance with -8 AN lines with a 1/4 NPT on the passenger side and a 1/2 NPT on the driver.

 

[W3bb3r04]

Also does anyone know where I can buy new rod bolts? I dont want ARPs