Welding axle tubes, all the info?

eighty6gt

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...quarter it... pre and post heat.. bury it in sand... cast the chicken bones, then burn them...
 

Blxcklist

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The correct way to weld cast will be SMAW (stick welding) with nickel rod. But im sure not everyone has done it the proper way, since thats a pain in the ass. You can probably get away with tig welding it to keep the temps way down or migging it with hardwire as long as its small wire so you can keep it cool.
 

Blxcklist

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They won't twist up under super dooper wheelie launches and get stuck in your butt :beer:

I thought it was mainly for high HP applications. Thank you.

Also still rocking a US-1 quote lol. That dude had some killer 1 liners
 

konablue11gt

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All I'm saying is I had them weld the exhaust on my 3v before I traded in, the welds looked pretty good. Also, my tips on my pypes catback on my 14 stuck out too far for my liking so I had them cut and weld it to move the tip back another inch or so. Weld looked good again. Same guy both times... I think they'd be just fine if I knew exactly what to tell them to do lol.

I don't have any good shops around my area. Midas is the only one I have experience with, so I was going to ask them first.

Also my car retails at $38.6k, I like to think of it as a 40k car :thumb:

You live fairly close to Evansville if I remember right...There is a shop here in town that does the work correctly and doesn't charge a huge amount. PM me and I'll give you the number and more info on the shop if your interested in coming here to have it done
 

dv8uagain

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I thought it was mainly for high HP applications. Thank you.

Also still rocking a US-1 quote lol. That dude had some killer 1 liners
Not always high hp but just how willing you are to launch on sticky tires.
Over the summer at the American Muscle car show I watched one of their cars twist a tube and did quite a good bit of damage in the process. That was on the launch. No telling what could happen could end up hitting the wall or crossing the center line if it happened at the worst possible time. Better safe than sorry.

As for US-1 total dick bag scum of the earth but he did have some funny shit every once in a while. I have been meaning to change it just keep forgetting...
 

justinsstang

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So he just drilled and added two bolts to it? I'm not capable of welding nor drilling and adding bolts myself... So I need to know how to explain what I need done. I saw Kelly said he may do this method on his next car, which probably means it's a good idea.

Need more info on how to explain it to a shop. Drilling and adding bolts sounds easier and less costly than welding, am I wrong?
 

Wes06

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I imagine one would still get the axle removed, pull the shafts so you don't go to far, and can easily clean out any shavings that get inside, then use some thread sealant to be sure they don't drip out oil. Reassemble
 

BadPiggy

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So he just drilled and added two bolts to it? I'm not capable of welding nor drilling and adding bolts myself... So I need to know how to explain what I need done. I saw Kelly said he may do this method on his next car, which probably means it's a good idea.

Need more info on how to explain it to a shop. Drilling and adding bolts sounds easier and less costly than welding, am I wrong?

I think there's more than 2 bolts done.
Why not PM the poster of that particular post and ask him exactly what he did?
 

eighty6gt

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I'd only want to do it on a bare, empty housing that I could clean out. Otherwise use rags packed down the tube so you contain the shavings.

By the photos I'd guess there are four bolts. Using a lock washer like that is bad practice - use threadlocker/sealant, I'd expect permatex, etc.. makes something for this particular application. Finally, if you are threaded through both portions you can imagine how the threads may be tight in one and loose in the other, how binding may occur. Oh well! The best case scenario would be to have the shank of the bolt tight (aka a force fit,) in one item and then the threads tight in the other. This would be difficult to attain since you'd have so few threads engaged in the axle tube if you were to drill out the threads in the housing.

My other concern is stress risers from all of the new holes and attachment points. If you have bending wayyy out at the end of the axle that's a lot of stress at a small ish hole in the casting/tube. Eh...
 

justinsstang

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I think there's more than 2 bolts done.
Why not PM the poster of that particular post and ask him exactly what he did?

I did, my message:

"I was linked to a thread you posted in when I asked about welding the axle tubes.

I saw that you did some sort of bolting method and I was looking for more information on it.

I am really clueless as to how these things even twist, and just want to do the strongest method for when I put my twin turbos on.

How would I go about describing to a shop what I want done with putting the bolts in the axle? I can't do it myself. And are you positive it's stronger than the weld? Thanks. "



His response:

"You want axle tubes tape (threaded) and run a bolt in there with sealant. The end of the bolt must remain flush with the inner diameter of the axle tube.

Only a experience welder that knows how to well case and steel can do it. Not many are since most welder are welding two materials together of the same type. At least in the auto industry. If it wasn't stronger or as strong I would not have showed what I've done."



I still wouldn't know how to explain that to a shop lol. Axle tubes tape threaded, run a bolt with sealant - lost me on the first sentence. Maybe the shop would understand.
 

fdjizm

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Pretty sure he meant tapped and threaded and some sealant on the bolts.
It's a simple process, just have to get the length of the bolts right and do a good cleanup.
I also think you would have to take the axles out to do it right. That means draining your oil of course.
 
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justinsstang

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Oh hey I get it. Whoa, it's like my brain started working. Kind of. Tehe. :hi:

Drawing a paint picture to show how I think it's supposed to be done from what you said. Then everyone can make fun of my awesome paint skills and it'll be a good time. Lmao
 

justinsstang

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Who's excited? I am. Here's my beautiful art :thumb:

102l8ox.gif


Don't worry paint art and self. They "hate us cuz they anus."
 

eighty6gt

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Nice drawing. The bolts you need are probably the shortest ones generally available in a given size. In the photos they appear to be M12's at least. Metric grade 10.9. I guess he used SAE 8.8's in 5/8 or whatever.
 

Wes06

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Shortest or just have a good cut off wheel :p

Also pro level drawing. You should be an artist, maybe an architect
 

eighty6gt

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My point is you need threads down to the cap.

Also, the staggered placement is important, helps develop a moment connection (the further the fasteners are from one another the better,) and also gets the stress risers out of alignment radially. Might not help as much as I think.

Just my opinion, I'm not an engineer. I haven't got this thing in FEA or anything. Can't!
 

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