What would you do if you were me?

[Wild White Pony]

If you like how your car looks, bolt a blower on it, stay away from upgrades like TB's,Intakes,Cams, and any other upgrades that really don't have a good ROI like shorty's, hot coils etc. You can enjoy 11s with just the blower, maybe put your money in some good fuel upgrades. Went through this myself but realized how addictive this can be to the would of, could of, should of. IMO this is a hobby that is most enjoyable over a period of time, making goals, achieving them and make new ones. Looking at the shortest route to a number may not be as fun, and I do like the 05-09 body style over the newer.

 

[RetiredSFC 97]

If you have the money trade it, but only IF you have the money, don't do it if you THINK you have the money. That's my best advice. Sorry

 

[darrens07gt]

If you have the money trade it, but only IF you have the money, don't do it if you THINK you have the money. That's my best advice. Sorry

This is excellent advice and that is something for me to think about too. My car payment right now is minimal because I only have 13K financed. If I do the trade to a 5.0 then I'll likely be financing 21K give or take. That's a pretty big jump in payment. Is the car worth 8K more then what I have now? If I get the auto I won't have to worry about a tranny upgrade so maybe.

Something else I should mention is that I do love to drag race (I have over 300 passes on my old 99 Formula) but I do NOT want a roll bar. So for the time being I want to keep my car, whether it's a 4.6 or 5.0, in the 11.5-11.8 ET range @ 115-119 mph.

That's why the cams, LT headers and N20 route is a consideration. I can probably make 330 rwhp NA while sounding awesome and spray a modest 75 shot to hit 400 rwhp. I'd have about 4K invested which is still cheaper then a blower when you consider I have to pay for install and tuning. I'd be happy with the 330 rwhp on the street and only spray at the track.

BUT a blower is still also very tempting. The idea of having the power any time and not having to refill bottles is a huge plus. And down the road I may change my mind and want to build a forged motor with more boost so I can get 10's. Much easier to do if I all ready have a good power adder.

I really appreciate all the opinions guys. The best lessons learned are the ones I learn from someone elses mistakes or regrets. I've seen enough people here say that they wish they had just invested in the blower right off instead of spending a few grand on NA bolt-ons that it's really making me stop and think.

 

[TGR96]

My car payment right now is minimal because I only have 13K financed. If I do the trade to a 5.0 then I'll likely be financing 21K give or take. That's a pretty big jump in payment. Is the car worth 8K more then what I have now? If I get the auto I won't have to worry about a tranny upgrade so maybe.

To bolt on a SC to your current car will run you around $6K for a quality kit, and depending on labor and tuning, you could be close to the price difference right there. 3V w/SC ~ 5.0 money-wise

BUT a blower is still also very tempting. The idea of having the power any time and not having to refill bottles is a huge plus. And down the road I may change my mind and want to build a forged motor with more boost so I can get 10's. Much easier to do if I all ready have a good power adder.

I really appreciate all the opinions guys. The best lessons learned are the ones I learn from someone elses mistakes or regrets. I've seen enough people here say that they wish they had just invested in the blower right off instead of spending a few grand on NA bolt-ons that it's really making me stop and think.

If you do keep your 3V, I agree with just skipping bolt-ons and going with the blower right off the bat.

FWIW, I traded my lightly modded 07 GT/CS 'vert for my current car right at two years ago, and after a little buyers remorse early on (I was emotionally attached to my 07), I haven't looked back. I love my Coyote.

Deciding between a Blown 3V and a Coyote...rich people problems!

 

[BruceH]

Looking at FRRP's site... the 550 crank hp /11 psi kit, that uses the whipple does 500rwhp on their FRPP dyno graph. IMO, that's pushing your luck. Either the rods will snap, and /or the tranny won't take it. Blow either of those up..and you are into a deep money pit.

I'd get the 11+ car used... maybe add LT's + catted H, DSS-DS, K+N drop in air filter, replace the upper grille with a 7 bar grille, then re-tune the entire mess for 93/94 octane..and call it a day. You would be at 440 rwhp. If you want more power down the road, then add your favorite blower of the week. Then your up to just under 600 rwhp. Resale value on the 11+ cars would be higher.

FRPP has some mojo in that factory like tune that comes with the HO. Motors just don't blow with that tune. It's also driver friendly, comes with all the parts needed like a GT500 pump setup, injectors, etc.

OP, it would cost you around $6400 shipped from an FRPP dealer like Tasca.

Another option would be a Big Bore shortblock. You could build it yourself and have 304 cubic inches of 3v motor with a 3.701" bore. It should be good for high 300's or even 400rwhp due to the larger bore unshrouding the valves.

There are many ways to get where you want. One of the most economical would be a DOB kit with lito tuning it.

 

[darrens07gt]

Deciding between a Blown 3V and a Coyote...rich people problems!

LOL hardly.

Deciding between a Ferrari and a Lamborghini is a rich person problem.

Deciding between a Corvette Z06 or a Viper is a upper class person problem.

Deciding between a blown 3V and a stock 5.0 is a middle class persons problem

 

[cavero]

go with option 4

5.0'erize your 07

Lol I was thinking the same thing...

Obviously not in his budget but man that would be awesome.

---

More stuff to think about-- Ford upgraded more than just the engine between 07 and 11.

 

[MassMustang]

Don't forget that the resale on a 2011 is higher than a 2007 now, but wait 5 years and they'll be s lot closer and you'll have spent $6K more.

I have a 2005 I bought used 2 years ago for $14K. It's worth less now but at least I owe less than its worth (down payment). Side by side, I like how my 2005 looks over other models. My only gripe is cubic inch displacement. My plan? Bolt-ons and save $6K. When I have the cash, I'll decide on a supercharger or used GT500. Not much spence for me to double my car payments for 0.4L (21cid).

I say stick with the 3V for now unless you've got cash to burn.

 

[dugstang]

I put longtubes and a blower on my car at the same time, spent $700 on exhaust and $3400 on a novi 1200 complete non intercooled kit. Made 487whp. Best $4k ive ever spent. I just switched to blow thru and added an intercooler now, cost another $1k but that included a fuel upgrade to take me farther when i build the lower end. I contemplate all the time to sell all of my parts, buy a 5.0, then use my parts money to immediately put a blower on the 5.0. Then i think about how much more of a car payment and adding more years to paying for a car...doesnt seem worth it financially unless i was made of money

 

[MassMustang]

^ That!

 

[mustangtcs]

My 05 has 40,000 miles and my payment is under $180 a month. I bought my Kenne Bell used for $2800. I have upgraded the whole kit and my car is consistent. I would never sell it even though I appreciate the 5.0. Now here is one for you. Two weeks ago I was behind a 5.0 at a light. It turned green and he left normal. I got in the lane next to him and he nailed it. I then hit it and drove right past him. At the next light he nailed it off the line and I blew his doors off. I do have my car setup to hook and he didn't. The following light he rolled his window and completely pissed off said "WTF is done to that?" I said "its just an automatic car lol, what about you?" he says "really!.... I have a supercharger, longtubes..." I tell him to pull over and sure enough he had an edelbrock supercharger and long tubes. Car is dyno tuned etc. I took pics of his car so I could prove it to my buddies. I know his car is capable of beating mine if setup properly but I can drive mine to it's fullest potential, and just because his car is potentially faster means nothing in the real world if he's spinning with his fancy rims and low profile tires and driving like an idiot. That made me feel good about my 3v. Which looks and sounds stock.

 

[darrens07gt]

I put longtubes and a blower on my car at the same time, spent $700 on exhaust and $3400 on a novi 1200 complete non intercooled kit. Made 487whp. Best $4k ive ever spent. I just switched to blow thru and added an intercooler now, cost another $1k but that included a fuel upgrade to take me farther when i build the lower end. I contemplate all the time to sell all of my parts, buy a 5.0, then use my parts money to immediately put a blower on the 5.0. Then i think about how much more of a car payment and adding more years to paying for a car...doesnt seem worth it financially unless i was made of money

That is sweet!

But two things worry me about that kind of a setup.

1). The non intercooler part and possible heat soaking.

2). 487 rwhp is 87 rwhp more that what I am looking for.

I know the crappy TR3650 is only good for 400 HP and 350 tq. I don't want to make it so my car requires me to spend 5K+ to get a magnum T56 because I went beyond the capabilities of a TR3650. This was really stupid of Ford anyway. I mean the friggin GM cars in the late 90's came with a practically bullet proof T56 6 speed and thier spark plugs didn't break off in the heads either.

So if I keep the 3V I would feel much more comfortable only making around 400 whp. Then I'll work on suspension, tires and getting the axle tubes welded for launching. Nothing crazy mind you but I would like to see some 1.7 60's and 11.8 ET's when it's all said and done.

 

[Riptide]

I know someone that pulled a 1.3 60' put 600whp through a stock 3650 (w/aftermarket clutch) fyi. Just sayin'...

I'm sure it would've kaboomed eventually if he kept on it. But it might hold for a while.

 

[dugstang]

Adding an intercooler is cheap and easy to do, i bought a cx racing kit from jeremy at s&h. I converted to blow thru so thats whag made it a little more costly for me. I had the car detuned after that dyno run. Heat soak isnt too bad non intercooled though. Did 4 dyno runs that day all back to back and a 10hp loss was seen. At the track i did a few hot laps and lossed about 2mph in the 1/4 when heat soaked.

 

[darrens07gt]

I know someone that pulled a 1.3 60' put 600whp through a stock 3650 (w/aftermarket clutch) fyi. Just sayin'...

I'm sure it would've kaboomed eventually if he kept on it. But it might hold for a while.

HOLY CRAP! That tranny would have been on borrowed time LOL. No offense to the fast 3V owners here but if I want a 600-750 whp car the 3V would not be my platform of choice.

I'd probably go back to a LS1 F-body and build a 408 iron block with a big cam and add a 200 shot of N20 on top of that. Pair that with a TH400 and a big ass converter and hold the puck on. Even when out of N20 that setup would be good for a solid 550 to the wheels.

 

[BruceH]

That is sweet!

But two things worry me about that kind of a setup.

1). The non intercooler part and possible heat soaking.

2). 487 rwhp is 87 rwhp more that what I am looking for.

I know the crappy TR3650 is only good for 400 HP and 350 tq. I don't want to make it so my car requires me to spend 5K+ to get a magnum T56 because I went beyond the capabilities of a TR3650. This was really stupid of Ford anyway. I mean the friggin GM cars in the late 90's came with a practically bullet proof T56 6 speed and thier spark plugs didn't break off in the heads either.

So if I keep the 3V I would feel much more comfortable only making around 400 whp. Then I'll work on suspension, tires and getting the axle tubes welded for launching. Nothing crazy mind you but I would like to see some 1.7 60's and 11.8 ET's when it's all said and done.

You can do a 6060 swap for under $2k. It will handle whatever you can throw at it.

3650s don't seem to go until over 500rwhp. When they do it's either the input shaft or 3rd gear.

It really sounds like you already made your mind up before you asked the question.

Mod motors really respond to forced induction. If you are looking for a 3v tuner do yourself a favor and look up lito on this forum. There are a handful of good 3v tuners available. Lito is one of them.

 

[darrens07gt]

It really sounds like you already made your mind up before you asked the question.

Not at all. I'm still torn between the 3 choices. They all have thier ups and downs. I am looking at autotrader and cars guru everyday to see if anything new pops up with a too good to pass on price for a 2011-2012

I'm also seriously considering keeping the 07 and investing in either a budget blower like the paxton 1200 or just pulling the trigger on the detroit rockers, LT's & n20.

What I am set on is keeping whatever I do as cost friendly as reasonably possible to reach an ET goal of mid to high 11's.

 

[BleedinBlue]

Something else I should mention is that I do love to drag race (I have over 300 passes on my old 99 Formula) but I do NOT want a roll bar. So for the time being I want to keep my car, whether it's a 4.6 or 5.0, in the 11.5-11.8 ET range @ 115-119 mph.

That's an easy, bolt on 5.0.

I love the looks of the 2011-2014 over the 05-09's too.

 

[darrens07gt]

That's an easy, bolt on 5.0.

I love the looks of the 2011-2014 over the 05-09's too.

Nice car! I got a question though if you don't mind me asking. I see your sig has a time of 12.2 @ 116 and I was wondering what your 60' is?

I've seen a lot of low 12 ET's with 115-117 traps in peoples sigs here. I don't get it because my old car ran 11.5-11.7 @ 116 all day long with 1.5-1.6 60's.

 

[Pentalab]

FRPP has some mojo in that factory like tune that comes with the HO. Motors just don't blow with that tune. It's also driver friendly, comes with all the parts needed like a GT500 pump setup, injectors, etc.

OP, it would cost you around $6400 shipped from an FRPP dealer like Tasca.

Another option would be a Big Bore shortblock. You could build it yourself and have 304 cubic inches of 3v motor with a 3.701" bore. It should be good for high 300's or even 400rwhp due to the larger bore unshrouding the valves.

There are many ways to get where you want. One of the most economical would be a DOB kit with lito tuning it.

It's not the FRPP tune, it's the pretzel stick oem rods in the 05-10 cars. There have been plenty of instances of that FRPP 550hp whipple kit taking out rods up her in canada. The Edmonton city cops had a 550 hp kit on their black + white hwy cruiser.... it too windowed the block. Some folks get lucky with the oem rods + 500 rwhp..and some don't. I'd keep it at 450 rwhp or less to be on the safe side.

A 11-14 with simple bolts ons will provide plenty of rwhp..and zero chance of blowing up. A 2007 car is now 8 yrs old....it's really ancient history these days. Unless your hell bent for the 05-09 body style, I would not buy one. With the 2015 car now out..and with irs, the 11-14 cars will drop further in value. Even the leftover, new, zero miles 2014 cars here in town, on ford lots, are being discounted by > $10K.