Which upper control arm do I want?

Gabe

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Going lowered soon with Steeda Sport springs, so 1" front and 1.25" rear is what they advertise.

I have BMR rear LCA's and their relo brackets already, and a DSS driveshaft all installed.

Which UCA do I want and why?
 

skwerl

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Aftermarket UCA's will increase noise in the cabin, some worse than others. My first venture into control arms I bought UMI and ended up removing the UCA after 2 months and going back to stock, it was that bad. Been real happy with the BMR stuff. It's not the cheapest but I don't want the cheapest. I had a BMR solid UCA with my DSS driveshaft and now have an adjustable BMR UCA since installing the new T56 trans and Dynotech driveshaft. The BMR pieces are not much louder than stock.
 

BruceH

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Whatever you get make sure it's adjustable so the pinion angle can be changed easily.

Do you have wheel hop?
 

Gabe

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Thanks guys, I DID look at the BMR stuff, but also at the Whiteline set-up which I can get for cheaper than the BMR (for both, the UCA and the bracket)

As far as axle hop, I have a little left after the existing mods, but of course I'd prefer none, which is most of the reason I'm considering a new UCA.

Pinion angle I thought I didn't have to worry about since the drop won't be that severe ... ??


.
 

BruceH

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My hop didn't go away until the uca was installed. I think BMR would be a good choice. You may or may not need to adjust the pinion angle, it's just nice to have the ablility to adjust it if needed. The future may bring other mods your way so it's best to be prepared now so you only have to change the uca once imo.
 

BMR Tech

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My vote:

bmr-utca032h_9158.jpg
 

Riptide

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I have been told that hitting it with the zerk is not enough. To properly periodically service a poly bushing like that requires manually greasing the outer face. Very labor intensive since the whole thing has to be removed to get at it. One of the reasons I steered clear of poly bushings on the upper.
 

tehdixie

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I have been told that hitting it with the zerk is not enough. To properly periodically service a poly bushing like that requires manually greasing the outer face. Very labor intensive since the whole thing has to be removed to get at it. One of the reasons I steered clear of poly bushings on the upper.
Who told you this?
 

Riptide

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I've asked around on forums before and had people tell me that. On my own there usually isn't all that much grease left on the outer face after about 3000 miles or so. I usually end up pulling my arms about that often and when I do so put a fresh layer on the outer face of the bushing. When you install them they usually come with white lithium grease packets that you apply manually on that outer face.
 

Synister500

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BMR for sure. Their quality is 2nd to none. Also, any price difference is made up for by their customer service and support.

6y7yvuma.jpg
 

skwerl

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Riptide, your comment doesn't compute. Where do you think the grease goes when you pump it into the grease fitting? There are tiny slots cut into the bushing creating grease channels leading from the center to the outside edges. You pump the grease in until you see it coming out the sides. When it's coming out the sides, the inside and outside edges are covered in grease.
 

tehdixie

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I've asked around on forums before and had people tell me that. On my own there usually isn't all that much grease left on the outer face after about 3000 miles or so. I usually end up pulling my arms about that often and when I do so put a fresh layer on the outer face of the bushing. When you install them they usually come with white lithium grease packets that you apply manually on that outer face.

I put over 90k miles on a set of LCAs with poly bushings without ever 'servicing' them as you are saying with no problems at all.
 

BMR Tech

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I have been told that hitting it with the zerk is not enough. To properly periodically service a poly bushing like that requires manually greasing the outer face. Very labor intensive since the whole thing has to be removed to get at it. One of the reasons I steered clear of poly bushings on the upper.

This may be accurate with a poorly designed bushing/system.

BMR for sure. Their quality is 2nd to none. Also, any price difference is made up for by their customer service and support.

6y7yvuma.jpg

Thanks sir! We appreciate your support. I noticed your order roll through the other day for the springs. Full BMR now, huh? :clap:

Riptide, your comment doesn't compute. Where do you think the grease goes when you pump it into the grease fitting? There are tiny slots cut into the bushing creating grease channels leading from the center to the outside edges. You pump the grease in until you see it coming out the sides. When it's coming out the sides, the inside and outside edges are covered in grease.

Fun fact. Did you know that the founder of BMR, decided to implement flutes into our bushings, 16 years ago. Today, it can be found all throughout the suspension industry, but not many people knew what grease flutes were in the mid-late 90's.
 

Riptide

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Maybe I was misled. I have asked about it before and was told multiple times grease won't make it very well out to the outer face of that bushing if all you do is give it a couple squirts through the zerk.


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Synister500

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Thanks sir! We appreciate your support. I noticed your order roll through the other day for the springs. Full BMR now, huh? :clap:
.

Yep. I have 3 final BMR pieces to acquire. Radiator support w/ sway bar mounts, chassis brace, and k-member.

BJ
 

Sharad

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Going lowered soon with Steeda Sport springs, so 1" front and 1.25" rear is what they advertise.

I have BMR rear LCA's and their relo brackets already, and a DSS driveshaft all installed.

Which UCA do I want and why?

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-chrome-moly-pro-street-double-adjustable-upper-11.html

^^this one, because it works well, it is Made in America, it carries a Lifetime Guarantee, and you get a discount as an S197 member.

NOTE: it has fluted Energy Suspension bushings and a larger than standard 1" sleeve for the body side bolt.
 

Gabe

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