Will a high pressure oil pump eliminate future cam phaser issues?

[partypants]

Since it seems to be that lack of low rpm oil pressure is the cause for this issue, will just using a HP pump negate it?

 

[skwerl]

The Melling oil pump helps a lot, but what seems to make the most difference on these 3v engines is using synthetic oil.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

Since it seems to be that lack of low rpm oil pressure is the cause for this issue, will just using a HP pump negate it?

A high pressure oil pump will certainly help but you could simply use a brand name full synthetic higher viscosity oil than the 5W-20 that Ford recommends, especially on high mileage engines e.g. 5W-30 or 10W-40.

 

[whitmanink]

wouldnt the thicker oil flow slower than the thinner oil? ,, so more wear quicker with thicker oil?

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

wouldn't the thicker oil flow slower than the thinner oil?

Yes it would but on a high mileage engine that has bigger rod/main bearing clearances caused by significant wear, the thicker oil would restore some oil pressure for a while until you're ready to crack the engine open. A high pressure oil pump is a better solution but even that is only a crutch. If you need a HP oil pump to restore factory oil pressure, you should really be thinking about replacing worn rod/main bearings in addition to the cam followers/lash adjusters, the cam drive kit, and VCT solenoids. As long as the piston rings are maintaining good compression and there's insignificant oil consumption, these measures would keep the engine happy for thousands more miles.

 

[LikeabossTM]

wouldnt the thicker oil flow slower than the thinner oil? ,, so more wear quicker with thicker oil?

Yes it would but on a high mileage engine that has bigger rod/main bearing clearances caused by significant wear, the thicker oil would restore some oil pressure for a while until you're ready to crack the engine open. A high pressure oil pump is a better solution but even that is only a crutch. If you need a HP oil pump to restore factory oil pressure, you should really be thinking about replacing worn rod/main bearings in addition to the cam followers/lash adjusters, the cam drive kit, and VCT solenoids. As long as the piston rings are maintaining good compression and there's insignificant oil consumption, these measures would keep the engine happy for thousands more miles.

I'd add that the main reason manufacturers have migrated to thinner oils is mainly to increase fuel economy, at the expense of engine wear (synthetic benefits notwithstanding). Going slightly thicker (more viscous) on even a brand new engine isn't going to cause problems for most, and may be beneficial for anything other than optimal fuel economy. Too thick, of course, could degrade dynamic valve train performance that relies on oil flow through passages at a particular rate.

 

[skwerl]

I've used 5w30 in my last 3-4 vehicles over the last 2 decades instead of the recommended 5w20. To clarify, the first number (5) is the viscosity when cold. The second number is the viscosity at operating temps. As oil warms up it thins out. Multi weight oils have additives that thicken as they warm up, keeping the oil from running like water. The first number is most important for startup. If you run a straight 30w oil in a modern engine it won't flow well until it warms up, starving the engine when cold. If you're in a cold, snowy area then by all means use 5w20. But in Florida 5w30 is a minimum and even a 5w40 or 0w50 for summer time.

 

[Midlife Crises]

My engine seems perfectly happy with 10w30 Mobile 1.

 

[skwerl]

My engine seems perfectly happy with 10w30 Mobile 1.

I had a 2002 F150 5.4. Used that oil exclusively for 15+ years and over 200K miles. Still ran perfect with less than 1/2 qt of oil loss between oil changes when I sold it.

 

[partypants]

Full synthetic or blend? I have to change the oil in a couple hundred miles and i was planning on using 5w-30 anyway, but I thought Ford said not to use synthetic in these?

 

[skwerl]

Full synthetic or blend? I have to change the oil in a couple hundred miles and i was planning on using 5w-30 anyway, but I thought Ford said not to use synthetic in these?

You have it backwards. You shouldn't use dino oil in these, only synthetic. And the synthetic 'blend' oils are about 10% synthetic and 90% dino oil.

 

[partypants]

You have it backwards. You shouldn't use dino oil in these, only synthetic. And the synthetic 'blend' oils are about 10% synthetic and 90% dino oil.

Understood

 

[WJBertrand]

I'd add that the main reason manufacturers have migrated to thinner oils is mainly to increase fuel economy, at the expense of engine wear (synthetic benefits notwithstanding). Going slightly thicker (less viscous) on even a brand new engine isn't going to cause problems for most, and may be beneficial for anything other than optimal fuel economy. Too thick, of course, could degrade dynamic valve train performance that relies on oil flow through passages at a particular rate.

Thicker usually means more viscosity not less.


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[skwerl]

I bought oil at Wal Mart for years because of the low price. It was the only thing I bought there. But Wal Mart oil has gone up and I can find better deals on Amazon, delivered to my door. No need to deal with Wal Mart shoppers. My last purchase was Castrol 5w30 full synthetic for my new (to me) 2005 F350. Deals to be found there.

 

[LikeabossTM]

Thicker usually means more viscosity not less.


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Right, noted and edited.

 

[EBABlacknChrome]

I bought oil at Wal Mart for years because of the low price. It was the only thing I bought there. But Wal Mart oil has gone up and I can find better deals on Amazon, delivered to my door. No need to deal with Wal Mart shoppers. My last purchase was Castrol 5w30 full synthetic for my new (to me) 2005 F350. Deals to be found there.

That's all that's ever been in my car until recently. Last oil change I switched to mobile 1 full synthetic. Just to try. 5w20 until super charged now 5w30. I am not sure why it needed thinner oil after being super charged but in was recommended.

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[skwerl]

5w30 is slightly thicker at operating temps than 5w20. A slightly thicker layer of protection between moving metal parts and works at a slightly higher temperature range than 5w20.

 

[EBABlacknChrome]

Smh man.......as in higher the last number thicker the oil. Like it's always been. Carry on, young/old brain had a moment of non functioning.

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[Pentalab]

You have it backwards. You shouldn't use dino oil in these, only synthetic. And the synthetic 'blend' oils are about 10% synthetic and 90% dino oil.

It get's worse. Several of the ..'semi synthetic' blends are actually just 3% synthetic..and 97% dino oil..when lab tested. The biggest problem with the semi synthetic crap is... they never say what the percentage is. I would avoid it like the plague.

Mobil-1 now makes 100% synthetic in 0W-20...and also 0W-30 and also 0W-40. I tried some of the 0W-30 in my 2010...with small roush M90 blower. Runs good. Starts just fine at -8.5 deg C (16.7 F). Mobil 1 in 0W-40 is what's used in all the new vettes. In really cold climates, the 0W-20/30/40 works superb in cars + trucks..and also stuff like portable generators etc. Toss the block heater. Less wear and tear on the battery + alternator + start motor.

 

[BAD3VLV]

I use a 15w40 in my supercharged 05 gt, but I live in Southeast Texas. Its never cold enough here to worry about the oil being too thick, but its damn sure too hot during the summer to run a 5w20 in a performance application in my opinion.