Winter storage

dustindu4

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Anything I should do other than taking the battery out and hooking up to a maintainer? Should I put fuel stabilizer in? Taking the car off the road today, I've never shut it down for winter before.
 

Alter Ego Trip

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Welcome to my world. Here's what I'd recommend

1) Get a cheap car cover. It helps keep everything protected. Even dust can be abrasive.
2) Remove battery and hook up to maintainer
3) I park on carpet pads. It seems to minimize flat spots and if you need to jack up the car for any reason to work on, it's much easier. Tires seem to glue themselves to the concrete when sitting for a while.
4) Make sure the tank is full or close to it. Prevents condensation which can harm parts.
5) Add some stabil to keep the fuel in check
6) Toss a drier sheet or some mothballs under the seat
7) Try to keep from staring at it and cussing about winter too much :)
 

3vs197

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This is my third winter with my car and I dont do much. Its stored for about 5 months. Its got a little less than a quarter tank, no fuel stabilizer and no carpet pads. I start it once a month and let it get warm and I have had 0 issues. Mine is stored about 45min away so I dont have to look at and curse about winter haha.
 

Riptide

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I just get the tires up to full pressure, add stabilizer and drive it for a few miles, then park it. That's it. Flat spots haven't been a big problem and if they are there a short drive usually gets them to go away once you take the car out of storage. It's hard to go to far with storage prep but I don't think you really have to do a lot of what people do. Depends somewhat on how long it's gonna sit I'm sure.
 

Mike K

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I just fill the tires, gas tank, change the oil(with in a month of putting it in to storage), spread dryer sheets all over and cover it. That's it nothing crazy
 

Alter Ego Trip

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I start it once a month and let it get warm and I have had 0 issues.

It's actually harder on it to start it up, then to just let it sit.

Don't forget to check your coolant too. You might not get as cold where you're at, but it's not uncommon to see 40 below here, not counting wind chill, a couple weeks each winter.
 

3vs197

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yea i know, condensation with the change in temp and all. i just dont like the idea of an engine sitting that long w/o being ran at least for a little bit.
 

Gray Ghost GT

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Welcome to my world. Here's what I'd recommend

1) Get a cheap car cover. It helps keep everything protected. Even dust can be abrasive.
2) Remove battery and hook up to maintainer
3) I park on carpet pads. It seems to minimize flat spots and if you need to jack up the car for any reason to work on, it's much easier. Tires seem to glue themselves to the concrete when sitting for a while.
4) Make sure the tank is full or close to it. Prevents condensation which can harm parts.
5) Add some stabil to keep the fuel in check
6) Toss a drier sheet or some mothballs under the seat
7) Try to keep from staring at it and cussing about winter too much :)

I use the same procedures - even the carpet pads, lol. If you're going to start your car once a month - ensure you get the oil up to operating temperature (drive it around for a few minutes) to remove condensation. Otherwise, IMHO you're doing more harm than good to start it up and shut it down.
 

calispecial08

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It's actually harder on it to start it up, then to just let it sit.

Don't forget to check your coolant too. You might not get as cold where you're at, but it's not uncommon to see 40 below here, not counting wind chill, a couple weeks each winter.

dang! 40 below?? Where the heck you from? I bet that sucks usual 10-15 below is max here
 

james05gt

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Welcome to my world. Here's what I'd recommend

1) Get a cheap car cover. It helps keep everything protected. Even dust can be abrasive.
2) Remove battery and hook up to maintainer
3) I park on carpet pads. It seems to minimize flat spots and if you need to jack up the car for any reason to work on, it's much easier. Tires seem to glue themselves to the concrete when sitting for a while.
4) Make sure the tank is full or close to it. Prevents condensation which can harm parts.
5) Add some stabil to keep the fuel in check
6) Toss a drier sheet or some mothballs under the seat
7) Try to keep from staring at it and cussing about winter too much :)

I'm on step 7:soapbox:
 

ZmanM3

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Welcome to my world. Here's what I'd recommend

1) Get a cheap car cover. It helps keep everything protected. Even dust can be abrasive.
2) Remove battery and hook up to maintainer
3) I park on carpet pads. It seems to minimize flat spots and if you need to jack up the car for any reason to work on, it's much easier. Tires seem to glue themselves to the concrete when sitting for a while.
4) Make sure the tank is full or close to it. Prevents condensation which can harm parts.
5) Add some stabil to keep the fuel in check
6) Toss a drier sheet or some mothballs under the seat
7) Try to keep from staring at it and cussing about winter too much :)

I put mine on jack stands, no carpet.
 

3VPOWA

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CobraBob over at SVTPerformance posted an excellent thread a few days ago regarding this subject.

This is what he wrote:

For storing your Mustang for winter, I offer the following recommendations. These recommendation are from my website Terminator FAQs.


· Fill the tank with gas and add a gas stabilizer to keep your gas from becoming stale. I recommend Sta-Bil, mixed to the correct ratio.

· Change the oil and filter.

· Thorough wash the exterior of the car, wheels, and tires. If possible, remove each wheel and thoroughly clean them. Especially the back side
where dirt and road debris accumulates. Polish the wheels and reinstall. Polish/wax the exterior. Clean/detail the engine bay. When the car
is sufficiently cleaned and the paint treated to a good coating of carnauba wax or polish, consider covering it with a quality car cover from
California Car Cover or Big Sky Car Covers, or another high quality cover.

· To prevent tire flat spots, use jack stands to raise the car off the floor. Set the stands under the control arms so that the weight of the car is
still on the suspension, and just high enough to keep the weight off of the tires. Putting the jack stands under the spring perches is
recommended by many. If jack stands are not available you can use wood blocks. Just remember that the suspension likes to be loaded. It's
heavy. Many recommend that you just inflate the tires to the max and put carpet squares or plywood under each tire.

· Check the tire air pressure and be sure all four tires are the same correct pressure. Note that regular air can leak during storage due to faulty
valve stems, wheel irregularities, etc. Costco warehouse stores use nitrogen to fill tires. It is the only place that I know of that has nitrogen
due to the expense of the equipment I guess. However, nitrogen is preferred for a number of reasons. The most important IMO is that it is
heavier than air and is less likely to leak out (larger molecules). So if you have a Costco in your area consider replacing the air with nitrogen.
You'll have more consistent air pressures without leaking.

· Disconnect the negative battery cable. When you're ready to take it out of storage hook it back up. Some prefer to use a battery tender.

· Place a few moisture absorber packs (desiccants) in the interior to absorb any moisture. Large packs are usually available at most do-it-yourself
building supply or hardware chains. A couple of bags on the front and rear floors, as well as a few more in the trunk, and you'll have dampness
protection for the entire winter season. As an alternative, kitty litter can be used in small containers.

· Get some Arm & Hammer baking soda to put in the cabin. Open the tabs and place the entire box on the floor. I'll put one box on the rear
floor and one on the front floor. This will prevent any musty smell.

· Cover the car with a high quality car cover. The cover will keep the paint surface clean and protect it from scratches if you (or others) will be
working around the car.

· Inflatable bubble covers are also available. You basically drive your car into the bubble and inflate it. Users state that air is continually kept
flowing through the bubble and this totally keeps out all moisture. So rusting of the brake rotors, for example, is not an issue. I don't know
anything more about this method so you should research it before using it.

· Change your oil again when the car comes out of storage.

· When starting the car after long term storage, hold the accelerator to the floor (which will turn off the fuel injectors) while starting. Turn the
engine over for about 10 seconds to get the oil flowing to the top of the engine. Then start the car normally. It is also recommended to pull
all the plugs first so the starter isn't working against compression. It is my understanding, though, that if you have a BAP it can render this
trick useless, reportedly due to the upgraded wiring coming directly from the battery.

Need to protect your Mustang from mice?

  • The best way to keep mice out of your car is to keep them out of the storage area, usually a garage. Keep doors and windows sealed
    as tightly as possible.
  • Keep food out of your building and cars. If there’s nothing for mice to eat, they won’t usually hang around. Pay close attention not to
    leave scraps or crumbs inside the vehicle. Vacuum the carpets, seats, under-seat area, console and glove box. Use probe tools
    to get at the petrified French fries on the side of the seat. LOL! Then shampoo the carpets so they are nice & clean and smell
    fresh.
  • Traps and poisons are a line of defense against mice. They come in a variety of models and prices. They work, but remember
    that bait traps are designed to attract mice and then kill them. Keeping the mice away in the first place works best. Some people prefer
    to put triangle shaped tube traps, that have a sticky base, near the garage door on both sides where the floor meets the wall. Rodents
    normally walk along these edges so places traps there works.
  • In most cases, mice enter a car by scampering up the tires. If the vehicle is stored without tires, it is a bit harder for them to get inside.
    Tireless storage will also keep your tires from “flat spotting.” However, the 2003/2004 Cobra is heavy and the suspension likes to be loaded.
    So jacking up the car is not one of my recommendations in this case, although some people do it.
  • Rodents can nest several places in a vehicle: the engine compartment, the interior and the trunk. They’re drawn to the warmth of an
    engine or heater motor. They will eat electrical wires and even spark plug wires.
  • Mice can also get into cars through holes around cables, pedal shafts, steering columns and so on. If you can seal all these openings,
    mice can’t enter. Leave the sun visors in the down position. If you want to keep the windows slightly open for better airflow, cover the
    opening with screening.
  • Usually, these creatures can’t get into a trunk if you seal interior openings; they usually enter the trunk from the rear seat.
    Some cars have drain holes in the spare tire well. These holes should be taped.
  • Some people put mothballs on the floor around the car. The line of mothballs should have no gaps at any point. Other car owners
    place mothballs or scented soap in a cake pan inside the car to keep mice away. Mice don’t like the mothball smell, but neither will you. If
    you go the mothball route, you can help to eliminate the smell by putting a scented candle under the seat on a hot day.
  • Zipper bags seal the whole car. There are two types. The first is a big plastic sack with a zipper. A second type is a plastic bubble
    supported by a curtain of air. The air pump draws little current and promotes better airflow. Both bags work well if you use them properly.
    The trouble is the hassle. You must be very careful not to trap moisture in the bag. While the air-curtain type won’t trap moisture, it does
    require electricity.
  • One final step in fighting rodent infestation is to make spot checks every couple of weeks. If you see droppings or notice that unpleasant
    mouse smell, the steps you have taken so far aren’t working. In this case, the first thing to do is to get rid of the mice. Then you’ll need to
    protect the vehicle from being re-infested. If you inspect the car on a regular basis, you should be able to remedy the problem before
    damage is done.

 

hopesmasher

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Might be a stupid question but.... My car is in a heated garage do I still need to remove the batery? And since I obviously have no clue, Why?
 

Alter Ego Trip

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Might be a stupid question but.... My car is in a heated garage do I still need to remove the batery? And since I obviously have no clue, Why?

The hardest thing on a battery is completely depleting its charge. If it happens to freeze when it's depleted, it will almost always ruin it.

There are always things running in your car, and when sitting for an extended period of time, will usually run it dead. It takes 10 seconds to disconnect the terminal.
 

Alter Ego Trip

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dang! 40 below?? Where the heck you from? I bet that sucks usual 10-15 below is max here

NW Montana. We're sitting right on the Canadian border. I've actually seen over 50 below air temps here before. Tack windchill on top of that and you're well below -100. :(

Right now our highs are low teens with lows below zero, and it's not even Thanksgiving. Feb is the coldest month generally.
 

Vapour Trails

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Regarding flat spots on tires, I've never moved the car or done anything special during storage and I have not had this issue. I really don't think it's an issue with modern radial tires. I think it's one of those tidbits of advice that has stuck around since the time of bias ply tires, that has no basis in fact anymore. If you are concerned, inflate the tires to the maximum listed pressure.
 

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