YSI-B Upgrade Pic Heavy

[Scott]

Kurt very cool, great job on the piping clamp!

 

[Unreal]

Ysi does like some displacement. I'm running one on my 7.0L and it runs out of steam up top. They seem to like ~6L or so. Bigger than that and they run out up top. My cast wheel made 1200rwhp, and runs great, so I'm not messing with it.

 

[Dillon Dollar]

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[Department Of Boost]

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[Wild White Pony]

Finally able to get back to this upgrade today. Installed the ID1000s and pipe clamps finally arrived after a week.

First problem the ID 1000s are so much wider than the 60# injectors that they wouldn't fit properly with the Fore fuel rails.

Had to drill out the countersink and enlarge the hole, then using a longer screw and washer was able to mount them without issue.

Switched out the temporary hose clamps and installed both T-Bolt Clamps and Constant Tension Clamps, I've never used the Constant Tension ones
but wanted to try them out.

Before restarting, I applied the value file for the ID1000 injectors. On first start the STFT were lean and very lean at idle. tweaked the Maf transfer file and have
the the STFT back in line for now, will start drive ability datalogging tomorrow. It was strange that the larger pipes initially made me take out 30% to get in line instead of adding 30%, now I've added 10% from 150 maf counts up and another 20% at idle with the addition of the injectors.

 

[Wild White Pony]

I'm going to move some of the posts that I was making in why TB are expensive thread to my YSI upgrade thread since my posts are getting more on the tech side of TB and injection plates and really don't pertain anymore to prices of TB's.

Has anyone compared the performance increases with these throttle bodies and have some dyno graphs to show these gains? Would be nice to see 4-5 of these aftermarket TB in an actual side by side test. IMO listing of upgrades by performance impact I would place TB's on the far end of the list, you probably gain more hp putting a clean air filter on.

That being said the stock TB seems to get lots of corrosion especially if your injecting meth. This 4yr old BBK TB I use doesn't seem to corrode at all, I just took it off tonight to fit this Snow Performance Injection plate and it's clean like new.

Too bad this Injection plate failed to fit.


I'm going to take a chance on the GT500 TB without the spacer upgrade kit, I want to use this meth plate as the spacer.

I just don't know if the nozzle on the motor side will fit. The BBK TB I have will not fit the nozzle on that side.

I stopped by a local Mustang shop today and put the plate to a Stock TB and it clears, from the pics the the two GT500 and stock are very similar on the motor side.

Stock

GT500

GT500 spacer plate

This Snow Meth plate is probably made by NX as it seems other parts from Snow have NX labeling. I could save some money with just the TB for $125.00 or punt if its not compatible and go stock.


By spring I'm going to do an actual comparison of a stock TB, a BBK TB and the GT500 with adapter, side by side same day dyno runs and see what's what.

I just got in the GT500 60mm TB which I was going use with a Snow Performance injection plate.
It doesn't fit so I ordered the BBR GT500 adapter and will drill it for the 2 meth jet and use that instead of the Snow Performance plate.
The 60mm GT500 TB has more spacing between inlets than the BBK 62mm so adapter needed. From the picture of the adapter it reshapes the inlet closer, once I get that adapter I want to see if its still 60mm.

The Snow Performance plate will not fit the 62mm BBK without grinding, you need also flip it upside down as you will take less material out of the TB then. This BBK TB has lots of metal you can take away, I found this TB to be a real nice quality TB that doesn't corrode from meth use.

After grinding the meth jet and spacer plate line up perfectly.

A comparison of the BBK 62mm top and the GT500 60mm Bottom.

I just need to get a good stock TB, the Snow Performance Plate fits the stock without any modifications.

Then will test on a boosted 4.6 3v with a YSI-B supercharger.


Update:
Now that the injection plate fits the TB I bolted it up to the intake manifold and now WTF moment. Seems the rubber o ring gasket would leave a gap in the center both top and bottom, I know I can seal that up but it seems strange that this plate was made this way since Both the FRPP and the stock seem to have the same rubber No#8 shaped o ring gasket.

Injection plate adapter on FRPP intake manifold.

I don't have a stock Intake Manifold but this pic I found of one sure looks like the same shape.

Update:

Fitted the GT500 throttle body tonight, drilled out the TB and installed BBR's adapter plate. Right now I have about $185.00 total in the GT500 TB and BBR adapter. Tasca Price for the GT500 TB was $104.95 complete ready to bolt with electronics, BBR adapter and hardware $80.00.

GT500 TB drilled out and BBR adapter on, bolt sleeves align the two.

Snow Performance Injection Plate added to the BBR adapter.

Installed, I'll need a little bigger 90deg elbow reducer since the GT500 TB inlet is larger than the BBK, was pretty hard to get it on.
Hood check.... Everything fits with the stock hood closed.

 

[Wild White Pony]

So here is the Snow Performance Injection plate for the 3v, on the stock intake manifold.
Again a no fit just like the FRPP Intake, injection plate shape will not seal top or bottom in the middle

So the Snow Performance Plate for the 3v will and will not:

Will fit the stock throttle body and allow with room for jets.
Will Fit the BBK if you flip it upside down and grind out some metal for the jets.
Will fit the GT500 TB with the addition of the BBR adapter.

Plate will not: Line up with stock or FRPP intake manifold with the o ring seal.

I have no idea what this plates is good for?

 

[Wild White Pony]

Finally got back to this, just need to burn out the winter gas with the stabil and install the new pumps in the GT500 hat.
Then it's off to the Dyno...


S&H intake installed.

Installed a Turbosmart Wastegate

Moved the meth tank and pump to the trunk.

Installed a dual stage boost controller.

 

[Dillon Dollar]

Tits

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[Department Of Boost]

Hard core, I like it!

 

[o2sys]

On your original v3 inter cooler setup where you had the MAF right before the TB, what tuning issues did you have? From the pictures it seems like it's pretty straight for a good MAF reading.

 

[Wild White Pony]

On your original v3 inter cooler setup where you had the MAF right before the TB, what tuning issues did you have? From the pictures it seems like it's pretty straight for a good MAF reading.

The air can be a little turbulent, you may find it easier tuning if you use a maf housing with clamps instead of welding a maf bung onto the pipe, you can then clock the maf to it's cleanest signal orientation. Outside of that you shouldn't have any problems with a good aftermarket slot style maf unit.

 

[Wild White Pony]

Finally had time to dyno this. I wanted between 725-750 ran right to 755rwhp plenty of timing and boost left over for more. Fuel pumps at 60%, Fuel pressure 50psi plenty fat on top. Spark plug test show mark about half way down so in the very safe area.
Will save adding more boost and timing for the track with some C16 fuel.

To be clear on a few things...We have a few gas stations that sell 100 octane, I mixed in 5 gallons with what little was left in the tank, about an eighth, I inject 50% VP M1/50% distilled water for these dyno pulls.

For fuel system:
I have the GT500 twin fuel pump hat with DW 300M Fuel Pumps and prv delete, S&H Fuel Line and Rail Upgrade, KB dual Bap, ID1000 injectors.

 

[o2sys]

Nice numbers man!

 

[NoviBlownGT]

I've been debating with myself on the YSi upgrade. My Paxton 2200 puts down a consistent 730-750whp on E85, manual Trans without water/meth. Trying to see if there are gains to be had switching to the YSi.

 

[Wild White Pony]

Nice numbers man!

Thanks,

I've been debating with myself on the YSi upgrade. My Paxton 2200 puts down a consistent 730-750whp on E85, manual Trans without water/meth. Trying to see if there are gains to be had switching to the YSi.

I know the 2200 can put down a lot, I think the YSI-B just starts to get going when it spins into the 60k range. I have this thing waste gated just to keep it within reason since I can spin this engine up into the 7k range. I'm runing a 2.5" pulley, the wastegate is set at 24psi right now.

Spark Plugs are gaped to .20 at this psi, timing is 21deg at WOT. Here is some more data from the dyno pull to look at that may help with a comparison to the 2200. After max hp it need some more timing, I've run up to 24deg on this engine before normally for the track tune. I do have some boost creep since I'm not using pressure on the back side of the waste gate, a 24# spring setup with the dual boost controller as a fine tuning device, basically bleeds off the boost line going to the waste gate. If I ever shoot for more boost I'll change up the boost control setup.

 

[NoviBlownGT]

I do like the wastegate idea to keep the boost in check. If I end up doing the swap I probably wont run a WG on it, just throw a pulley on it and see what happens. Id like to get some crazy number out of it just to see what it'll do. Then probably gate it to keep it manageable on the street/track. Paxton seems to be out of seem making 22-23lb on my car, even dropped a pulley size and couldnt pick up anything. Fresh new slightly shorter belt last night and still nothing, so its not a slippage issue just think she is maxxed out. I'm spinning it at 62K, which is like 9k or so over the max recommended.

 

[BruceH]

I do like the wastegate idea to keep the boost in check. If I end up doing the swap I probably wont run a WG on it, just throw a pulley on it and see what happens. Id like to get some crazy number out of it just to see what it'll do. Then probably gate it to keep it manageable on the street/track. Paxton seems to be out of seem making 22-23lb on my car, even dropped a pulley size and couldnt pick up anything. Fresh new slightly shorter belt last night and still nothing, so its not a slippage issue just think she is maxxed out. I'm spinning it at 62K, which is like 9k or so over the max recommended.

IMO that's the biggest advantage with a billet wheel. Max rpms are higher so you can run a smaller pulley, build boost and power faster, and use a wastegate to control power.

In effect it makes for a car that still behaves at lower rpms but brings on the boost low enough that it's more like a hybrid between a centri and pd except the power just keeps on coming until you hit the wastegate setting.

 

[NoviBlownGT]

IMO that's the biggest advantage with a billet wheel. Max rpms are higher so you can run a smaller pulley, build boost and power faster, and use a wastegate to control power.

In effect it makes for a car that still behaves at lower rpms but brings on the boost low enough that it's more like a hybrid between a centri and pd except the power just keeps on coming until you hit the wastegate setting.

I definitely agree with you on that Bruce! Especially with the billet over the cast. I'll look more into it for sure but I just want to make sure there is enough of a gain possible to make the swap worth it. I wont want to swap and be maxed out again. I'd really like to get this boat to run low 9s maybe 8s once I swap and have the auto setup.

 

[Wild White Pony]

Just want to add this about the fuel system upgrade, I think it's a very worthwile setup:
Some pics of the DW 300M pump swap in the GT500 hat. These pumps are amazing so far. If your doing the PRV delete, pickup an internal pump flex tube from APEUSA
http://www.apeusa.com/html/kits.html
I bought a couple different ones to try, the 10mm x 9.45 will be the size to use for the delete. Heat up the ends in boiling water slip on and use a fuel clamp for added security.

Bending aluminum tubes or using heavy rubber trans tubing is a nightmare when you go to reinstall the pump, this will make an easy job.