2008 Stage 3 ROUSH - Rebirth...

[08fordgt]

Awesome build/thread man. I feel bad for all the troubles you are having. With all the pics combined with my crappy expensive Afghanistan Internet connection I've just now been able to read the whole thing.

You said you thought your spark was weak and you were running tiny gaps. I'm not sure if you had to run a smaller gap for the amount of boost you are running but from the VMP website it says when running over 7lbs of boost to run a 0.035 gap.

http://vmptuning.com/superchargers/rsctvssbph1-2/

It sucks having to run such tiny gaps (0.024").
.

Also I'm wondering what HE you are using... I would guess by all the money you spent that it would be the AFCO with the dual fans but I didn't see any pics and in one post you were talking about rising iats. Just curious...

 

[AutoXRacer]

Awesome build/thread man. I feel bad for all the troubles you are having. With all the pics combined with my crappy expensive Afghanistan Internet connection I've just now been able to read the whole thing.

You said you thought your spark was weak and you were running tiny gaps. I'm not sure if you had to run a smaller gap for the amount of boost you are running but from the VMP website it says when running over 7lbs of boost to run a 0.035 gap.

http://vmptuning.com/superchargers/rsctvssbph1-2/



Also I'm wondering what HE you are using... I would guess by all the money you spent that it would be the AFCO with the dual fans but I didn't see any pics and in one post you were talking about rising iats. Just curious...

Yep, I run 0.024" of gap; otherwise I get spark blowout.

I do have the VMP AFCO dual fan; I got it a long time ago with my original build. I reused it for this project.

Basically the only thing really frustrating me right now is the motor and the oil consumption.

I have no issues with rising IATs. During a hot day, they will get up to 140s, but quickly drop to 120s once you get moving.

Typically my IATs are in the 109 range.

 

[one eyed willy]

0.024 is crazy small...i run 0.035 with 16-17psi and been as high as 20 with no issues on pump gas (93). Stock cops, HT0 plugs.

 

[blownGTvert]

0.024 is crazy small...i run 0.035 with 16-17psi and been as high as 20 with no issues on pump gas (93). Stock cops, HT0 plugs.

I agree the plug gap seems very small! I use (1) step colder Brisk plugs gapped @ .032", stock coils with 20psi no issues.

 

[AutoXRacer]

I also use stock COPs (Ford Racing replacements for newer style heads 12mm plugs) with 1-step colder Iridium plugs.

Not sure why I get blow-out. JDM also runs the same gap.
We started with 0.032", 0.030", 0.028", and ended up with 0.024".

Thus we need stronger COPs so we can run 0.060" gaps imitating miniature arc welders. lol

 

[blownGTvert]

All of your issues with oil consumption, plug gap, and oil in the intake may be related. It's possible that the crankcase is being over pressurized. Torched a ring or hole in a piston? A compression test will eliminate a ring/ piston failure. Post the results of the compression test!

 

[walker2t]

wowsa.. I'm so sorry for all your troubles...

 

[AutoXRacer]

Here is another thing I found on Friday... sigh

Sigh... Maybe thats why I have been getting weird voltage levels.

Driving for extended periods my voltage has been dropping to 13.6V.
Short drives to work and back (approx 20 miles each way) voltage levels have been normal. But on extended operations or track days, the voltage has dropped to 13.6V or so.

Must be due to the heat softening the metal and causing issues with the case...??

The boss is where the ROUSH bracket bolts into fastening the alternator to the intake manifold.

 

[BadPiggy]

Breaking in a new motor by driving like Grandma on her way to church results in a motor that prefers to be driven by Grandma on her way to church.

Different situation but when I get new chainsaws I wait until I have a big removal to put them in service. Breaking in the saws by working the dog shit out of them results in a saw that performs stronger for its entire service life. I've broken in saws gently and they are usually way down on power in comparison.

Exactly the way I learned.
Beat the hell out f it from the git-go.

 

[Pentalab]

All of your issues with oil consumption, plug gap, and oil in the intake may be related. It's possible that the crankcase is being over pressurized. Torched a ring or hole in a piston? A compression test will eliminate a ring/ piston failure. Post the results of the compression test!

You may well be correct. OK, what happens if either (A) it fails the compression test on 1 or more cylinders....and /or... (B) it passes the compression testS....yet still uses up oil like crazy ?? What is JDM's procedure at that point ? AutoXracer is in wash state..and JDM is in NJ. Is he supposed to remove the eng and ship it back to JDM ?? Who's gonna pay for all this ?

This might turn into a gong show. They will say you didn't follow their break in procedures to a T. Poof, warranty voided. If it gets to that point, you might want to take up that kind offer from the fellow in wash state, close to you, and do it right.

Jimbo

 

[blownGTvert]

You may well be correct. OK, what happens if either (A) it fails the compression test on 1 or more cylinders....and /or... (B) it passes the compression testS....yet still uses up oil like crazy ?? What is JDM's procedure at that point ? AutoXracer is in wash state..and JDM is in NJ. Is he supposed to remove the eng and ship it back to JDM ?? Who's gonna pay for all this ?

This might turn into a gong show. They will say you didn't follow their break in procedures to a T. Poof, warranty voided. If it gets to that point, you might want to take up that kind offer from the fellow in wash state, close to you, and do it right.

Jimbo[

Oil consumption is really only 1 of 2 things. Either leaking eternally or burning it. Start with a compression test and go from there.

I don't think warranty plays into this a lot. When your pushing the limits with big power shit happens. You have to pay to play and it only takes 1 small issue to be a major issue on a highly modified car. Also that 91 octane fuel certainly doesn't do the motor any favors I safeguard against heat and detonation. Sucks it happened but fix it and move on. Been there many times and its all part if the fun right?

 

[skwerl]

Been following this build from the inception and I have to say that Gerald's experiences are a perfect example of why I don't put much faith in warranties. The piece of paper is worthless, your warranty is only as good as the honor of the person standing behind it. There is always an out so 'warranty' is only honored if they want to honor it. I hate to say it but their responses so far (especially during the tuning stage) pretty much tell us what their response to this issue will be. I just hope it's something relatively easy to resolve.

 

[AutoXRacer]

Just got the compression and leak down test tools...

Compression test coming soon.

 

[muztangman93]

Where did you get the tools at. Id like to have a set myself

 

[blownGTvert]

Where did you get the tools at. Id like to have a set myself

Google search function is your friend!



OTC 5605
Deluxe Compression Tester Kit




Complete with standard and specialty adapters, this deluxe kit offers a complete package for compression testing on gasoline engines. Kit includes the deep well connector used on recessed plug well style heads and the new ford TritonTM engine adapter using 16mm thread plugs.
Functions and Features:
• Corrosion resistant nickel plated finish.
• Adapters work on both flat and tapered seat plugs.
• Extra long 25" flex hose gauge assembly with quick coupler, allows easy viewing out of cluttered engine compartment.
• 2-1/2" gauge features chrome bezel and rugged protective outer boot.
• Dual scale gauge reads 0-300 psi and 0-2100 kPa.
• 8" deep well 14mm connector.
• 5" flex Ford TritonTM 16mm adapter.
• 12" flex-14mm standard reach.
• 12" flex-14mm long reach.
• 10mm, 12mm, and 18mm thread adapters.
• Rugged blow-molded hard case with removable lid.
• Repair parts kit.


Image Files
High Quality
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High Quality
Low Quality

Document Files
English Brochure

 

[AutoXRacer]

Yep thats the kit I got from Amazon!!!

OTC 5605 Deluxe Compression Tester Kit
I had to add this: OTC 5608 Compression Tester Ford 12mm Adapter

OTC 5609 Cylinder Leakage Tester Kit

 

[Deez-67]

Exactly the way I learned.
Beat the hell out f it from the git-go.

Maybe this is why my red girl has 130K on her and I've never had any problems.... lol

"knock on wood"

 

[BruceH]

Been following this build from the inception and I have to say that Gerald's experiences are a perfect example of why I don't put much faith in warranties. The piece of paper is worthless, your warranty is only as good as the honor of the person standing behind it. There is always an out so 'warranty' is only honored if they want to honor it. I hate to say it but their responses so far (especially during the tuning stage) pretty much tell us what their response to this issue will be. I just hope it's something relatively easy to resolve.

That's pretty much the experience of anyone who has had warranty issues. I've said it before and I'll repeat that the only place I'm aware of that's honored a warranty was FRPP. A new Aluminator spun a rod bearing and they shipped the guy a new motor. None of this "ship it to us on your dime and we will take a look" crap.

Here's what a forum member went through once: http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20639&highlight=fuck+car

Now with all of that said I can see why shops don't want to warranty a high performance motor. Any little thing can cause catastrophic failure. I really don't understand why they offer a warranty or a horsepower rating. I've never heard of any shop doing destruction testing to see what fails at what level. Horsepower ratings are nothing but advertisement imo. Just like the warranties.

I could see a limited "if it's something we screwed up we will help you out" kind of thing. Good shops will do that without a warranty.

 

[Pentalab]

Looking at Kenne bell's site. He sez his..."boost a spark" is good enough that you can use a .100" spark plug gap AND 30 psi of boost.

I see that GMS makes several version of COPs. Their expensive one is rated for 60 kv. Now that's triple the oem 20 kv.

Use the....."boost a spark" in conjunction with the GMS 60 kv plugs..and you will end up with almost 86 kv. On paper, you should be able to use a .1032" gap. If that doesn't do it.... I give up.

Ok, now you get to have your 8 x mini arc welder's in action. The hotter cop's will provide higher kv. The K bell boost a spark also provides for a longer duration spark.

Your present .024" gap..although it works, seems a bit on the narrow side for optimum performance at any rpm. You might want to make some ph calls about this.

I think your bigger issue right now is having to buy eng oil every time you gas up. Are you still getting oil on the intake elbow ? It must be a mess inside there..with oil all over the rotor pack, IC, and manifold.

Jimbo

 

[muztangman93]

17psi here gapped at 30 or 32 cant remember. Accel cops