2008 Stage 3 ROUSH - Rebirth...

[AutoXRacer]

Looking at Kenne bell's site. He sez his..."boost a spark" is good enough that you can use a .100" spark plug gap AND 30 psi of boost.

I see that GMS makes several version of COPs. Their expensive one is rated for 60 kv. Now that's triple the oem 20 kv.

Use the....."boost a spark" in conjunction with the GMS 60 kv plugs..and you will end up with almost 86 kv. On paper, you should be able to use a .1032" gap. If that doesn't do it.... I give up.

Ok, now you get to have your 8 x mini arc welder's in action. The hotter cop's will provide higher kv. The K bell boost a spark also provides for a longer duration spark.

Your present .024" gap..although it works, seems a bit on the narrow side for optimum performance at any rpm. You might want to make some ph calls about this.

I think your bigger issue right now is having to buy eng oil every time you gas up. Are you still getting oil on the intake elbow ? It must be a mess inside there..with oil all over the rotor pack, IC, and manifold.

Jimbo

Unfortunately, aftermarket COPs are questionable. As I tested a set that could not spark past 12 PSI.

We tested gaps from 0.035 thru 0.024; 0.024 is where the spark blowout quit. Also, this is the spark gap JDM currently uses on their race cars.

I will be testing another COP set soon as the company that made the ones I tested is going back to the drawing board. More to come on that.

The issue with the boost-a-spark is that it requires a lot of splicing into wires which I hate. I prefer clean connector type connections. Wiring in a boost-a-spark results in a rats nest of wires.

Car runs great with 0.024" gap; although not ideal, it still performs amazingly.

Regarding the oil issue, I am no longer getting oil in the elbow as I removed the PCV system. I am now running breather catch cans; one for each valve cover. I don't get oil in the catch cans, just some yellow liquid with white milky stuff in it. Smells like ass. LOL Most of the fluid is collected from the passenger side. Driver side barely gets much. Hopefully the rotors and intake manifold have cleaned themselves out by now.

I have plenty of oil at home, as I bought 2-3 cases of oil as JDM told me to run the VR1 Racing oil for 4 oil cycles.

 

[one eyed willy]

Unfortunately, aftermarket COPs are questionable. As I tested a set that could not spark past 12 PSI.

We tested gaps from 0.035 thru 0.024; 0.024 is where the spark blowout quit. Also, this is the spark gap JDM currently uses on their race cars.

I will be testing another COP set soon as the company that made the ones I tested is going back to the drawing board. More to come on that.

The issue with the boost-a-spark is that it requires a lot of splicing into wires which I hate. I prefer clean connector type connections. Wiring in a boost-a-spark results in a rats nest of wires.

Car runs great with 0.024" gap; although not ideal, it still performs amazingly.

Regarding the oil issue, I am no longer getting oil in the elbow as I removed the PCV system. I am now running breather catch cans; one for each valve cover. I don't get oil in the catch cans, just some yellow liquid with white milky stuff in it. Smells like ass. LOL Most of the fluid is collected from the passenger side. Driver side barely gets much. Hopefully the rotors and intake manifold have cleaned themselves out by now.

I have plenty of oil at home, as I bought 2-3 cases of oil as JDM told me to run the VR1 Racing oil for 4 oil cycles.

BAS only requires to cut one wire and splice it in....then just ground it....unless your talking about upgrading the entire batch of wires going to the coil?

white stuff is normal on the catch cans, its just oil vapor mixed with water from the condensation the can catchs.

 

[AutoXRacer]

BAS only requires to cut one wire and splice it in....then just ground it....unless your talking about upgrading the entire batch of wires going to the coil?

white stuff is normal on the catch cans, its just oil vapor mixed with water from the condensation the can catchs.

I was told by someone who installed it that it required to splice in each coil harness.

Have you tried the boost-a-spark? Does it work?

 

[one eyed willy]

I was told by someone who installed it that it required to splice in each coil harness.

Have you tried the boost-a-spark? Does it work?

i have one sitting on the bench at home along with MSD cops....i havnt felt the need to install either.

the general thought is both are worthless.....so ive been on the fence about wasting my time.....on the other hand i tend to not beleive what i always hear on the interwebz....

some say the only way the BAS does any good is if you replace all the wires going to the cops with thicker wire.....but the actual BAS only requires you to cut and splice the main power wire going to the cops, they are all connected together at the fuse box so its only one wire. so adding the thicker wire is just another option but not required to make it work.

 

[BruceH]

The only real spark upgrade that's been proven to work is LS coils. You shouldn't need any help with the spark at your level. IMO you are chasing symptoms instead of the problem.

 

[Pentalab]

I read through a ton of reviews on the K bell BAS. The consensus is..it does work. The adjustable knob of the control box is dialed up till the spark blow out stops.

Now these folks were using the BAS on everything from honda's to subaru's to nissan, mopar and anything else you can think of. I looked at all these other forums..and the BAS works. Everything from centri type blowers to turbo's with the boost cranked through the ceiling.

However you would probably want to talk to the folks at K Bell to get some general guidelines on usage. IE: a chart of boost VS recommended gap...using their BAS.
I'm sure you could use a wider gap than .024" with their product. They use a boost sensor....and wired to their small control box. The BAS kicks in when boost exceeds 4 psi.
I'd be very interested to know if these GMS 60 kv cops work as advertised. Or the 40 kv version. Some have reported an easier time starting the car...and a much better idle. The BAS + 40-/60 kv cops would result in the ultimate spark..... but I have not read where anybody has tried that combo.

I also read some where else, where folks were having problems in winter time..when using plugs that were 2 heat ranges colder. This was when starting the car in cold wx.

Jimbo

 

[AutoXRacer]

I do have to admit, the last set of coils I tried, the car did start easier, had smoother/stronger idle, and did cruise around town much smoother (also felt stronger)...but the coils were not able to fire with boost. I think I even saw a slight improvement in MPG. I also noticed an increase in engine vacuum.

So better (stronger) coils do work...

 

[AutoXRacer]

So the car is back in the shop for the gears. I finally took it back to get the whine taken care of, in addition to having the seals replaced due to leaky passenger side when on track.

Had an interesting conversation. Seems like high horsepower motors are built a little loose thus oil consumption is not uncommon in these type motors. I told them I was consuming 1 full quart of oil on a track day (5x20 mins sessions). They said its not uncommon. Hmm... I wish JDM would have warned me about this...I would have stuck with a more "regular" build.

Anyone in here (S197 Forums) with a JDM motor? What has your experience been?

 

[muztangman93]

What was the compression test results

 

[AutoXRacer]

No results yet... Actually the shop will be doing it today. Figured if anything comes about, the results would be more legit from an actual shop vs me doing it and have the possibility of arguing whether I did it right, etc...

 

[blownGTvert]

So the car is back in the shop for the gears. I finally took it back to get the whine taken care of, in addition to having the seals replaced due to leaky passenger side when on track.

Had an interesting conversation. Seems like high horsepower motors are built a little loose thus oil consumption is not uncommon in these type motors. I told them I was consuming 1 full quart of oil on a track day (5x20 mins sessions). They said its not uncommon. Hmm... I wish JDM would have warned me about this...I would have stuck with a more "regular" build.

Anyone in here (S197 Forums) with a JDM motor? What has your experience been?

Simply not a true statement on modern engines. Using a quart of oil you have an issue.

 

[AutoXRacer]

Simply not a true statement on modern engines. Using a quart of oil you have an issue.

I agree...

 

[muztangman93]

a quart between oil changes might be different. But a quart every time you run it at the track seems ludicris to me.

 

[BruceH]

No results yet... Actually the shop will be doing it today. Figured if anything comes about, the results would be more legit from an actual shop vs me doing it and have the possibility of arguing whether I did it right, etc...

What shop? Bills in Marysville?

 

[Vinnie5.0]

If you are road racing the car and keeping it at high rpm it will use oil. High end car manufacturers such as BMW, Audi, Mercedes actually have service bullitens stating that a car can use 1 quart every 1,700 miles or less depending on how you are driving. I bet your car doesn't use the amount of when ur driving it to work and home as it does when your at the track.

 

[AutoXRacer]

What shop? Bills in Marysville?

Bills...?

No, TMS.

Which I am not too happy as I got a call yesterday stating 4.10s are noisy gears and that my gears are with in specs. So no fix. sigh

If you are road racing the car and keeping it at high rpm it will use oil. High end car manufacturers such as BMW, Audi, Mercedes actually have service bullitens stating that a car can use 1 quart every 1,700 miles or less depending on how you are driving. I bet your car doesn't use the amount of when ur driving it to work and home as it does when your at the track.

Thats correct, I only use up ounces every other day, every 100 miles or so.

 

[AutoXRacer]

So car is ready!!! They told me compression and leak-down passed with no issues or concerns. Will post numbers when I get them!!

 

[skwerl]

^Well then you still haven't found the issue.

 

[Timmbo]

Bills...?



Which I am not too happy as I got a call yesterday stating 4.10s are noisy gears and that my gears are with in specs. So no fix. sigh

If they are FRPP gears you should have no noise at all. I built mine myself reusing the same two cast carrier shims and the shim under the pinion gear and the backlash was perfect. Somethin ain't right if you've got noise. Too late anyway now if you've already run a pattern into them.

 

[AutoXRacer]

^Well then you still haven't found the issue.

Will be interesting to see what the numbers are.
There wouldn't be a reason to doubt their results...would there?

If they are FRPP gears you should have no noise at all. I built mine myself reusing the same two cast carrier shims and the shim under the pinion gear and the backlash was perfect. Somethin ain't right if you've got noise. Too late anyway now if you've already run a pattern into them.

They are FRPP. I have been searching and there seems to be 50% of owners that experience some type of noise.
I really don't know what to do. Hopefully Red Line Shockproof will quiet it down a bit.