Bolt in motor (I screwed myself)

psfracer

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So if that bolt was not used for anything in the build, then wtf is it doing there? Thats crazy. After 50 miles maybe it finally did work its way past the IC? If it was post IC it would have became a problem within seconds after the first start up, no?
 

BruceH

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10.5 CR with some new FRPP heads would make a nice Christmas present... :crazy:

Is that the plan? You could hit over 11:1 with a 6.6 dish and the stage 3 heads with a 48cc combustion chamber. Flat tops with a 1cc exhaust valve relief would give you over 12.
 

05stroker

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Billy get the heads cleaned up and ported. Im sure it would be cheaper than the frpp's.

They are ported already.

So if that bolt was not used for anything in the build, then wtf is it doing there? Thats crazy. After 50 miles maybe it finally did work its way past the IC? If it was post IC it would have became a problem within seconds after the first start up, no?

There is no way a bolt that size could get through the I/C. It was there the whole time.

Is that the plan? You could hit over 11:1 with a 6.6 dish and the stage 3 heads with a 48cc combustion chamber. Flat tops with a 1cc exhaust valve relief would give you over 12.

IDK, just thinking out load right now. I am a firm believer in the build it better the next time though. And I do have all winter now. I will have to look at the off the shelf stuff and see what I come up with. I don't want anything custom.
 

psfracer

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Wow that is weird. I am finding it hard to believe it took 50 miles and 3 passes for the bolt to find an intake valve if it was post IC. Either way this is suckage that is off the scale. I guess you could be like I am, just glad the car is in one piece and it didn't find the wall also.
 

05stroker

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Wow that is weird. I am finding it hard to believe it took 50 miles and 3 passes for the bolt to find an intake valve if it was post IC. Either way this is suckage that is off the scale. I guess you could be like I am, just glad the car is in one piece and it didn't find the wall also.

Yea, after 4.5 gal of water under the rear tires at 110 mph, I feel lucky. Time to slow down and double check everything.
 

crownaviation

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@23 psi.. the thing is sucking some serious air thru the motor. that really looks like some sort of trim screw. You are running a filter? Well, I agree it would not have made it thru the blower or you would have certainly noticed that mess of a noise.

damn.. shit scares me. No real way anyone could just throw one in there at the track either is there? That surprises me it took so long to make it into the combustion chamber. I figure that would have happened almost immediately, even without boost

That was one expensive screw

Now is the time to go big block with a massive blower sticking out of the hood..

http://www.mustang50magazine.com/featuredvehicles/m5lp_1106_2007_ford_mustang_gt500/photo_08.html

photo_10.html
 
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05stroker

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@23 psi.. the thing is sucking some serious air thru the motor. that really looks like some sort of trim screw. You are running a filter? Well, I agree it would not have made it thru the blower or you would have certainly noticed that mess of a noise.

damn.. shit scares me. No real way anyone could just throw one in there at the track either is there? That surprises me it took so long to make it into the combustion chamber. I figure that would have happened almost immediately, even without boost

The screw/bolt is one of many SS fasteners I have bought at my local hardware store for my boat and misc other projects.

It was in the intake, motor, or post I/C piping when the motor went in.

There is no way for it to get in after the spark plugs, intake, and I/C pipes are connected. Personally after rethinking my assembly practices and the fact that I had to clean the intake out from all the oil from the last issue, it had to be in the I/C pipe post I/C.
 
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05moneypit

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After looking at the pictures you are probably correct in replacing the rings. For the 150 bucks the rings cost it would be money well spent. I wouldn't be surprised if a couple of the rings are stuck from hammering the screw.

Either way it sucks for sure, just one of those really freaky things. I would never in my life guessed the screw would move between cylinders.....weird.
 

Makdaddy

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After looking at the pictures you are probably correct in replacing the rings. For the 150 bucks the rings cost it would be money well spent. I wouldn't be surprised if a couple of the rings are stuck from hammering the screw.

Either way it sucks for sure, just one of those really freaky things. I would never in my life guessed the screw would move between cylinders.....weird.


Like Pinball Machine pushed out 0ne exhaust and sucked back in on another intake?
 

05stroker

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10.5 CR with some new FRPP heads would make a nice Christmas present... :crazy:

Is that the plan? You could hit over 11:1 with a 6.6 dish and the stage 3 heads with a 48cc combustion chamber. Flat tops with a 1cc exhaust valve relief would give you over 12.

After thinking more about it, I think I will reuse these heads as long as they check out okay.

As for the pistons, Manley offers 18cc at 9.01 c/r, 11cc at 9.92 c/r, and Flat tops at 11.61 c/r for a .030 over stroker application and a 51cc combustion chamber.

Im planning to stay on e85 so the 11.61 flattops are very tempting. Can the e85 handle 23 psi and 11.61 c/r?

Also would I only need a 1cc valve relief with 127550 cams?
 

BruceH

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After thinking more about it, I think I will reuse these heads as long as they check out okay.

As for the pistons, Manley offers 18cc at 9.01 c/r, 11cc at 9.92 c/r, and Flat tops at 11.61 c/r for a .030 over stroker application and a 51cc combustion chamber.

Im planning to stay on e85 so the 11.61 flattops are very tempting. Can the e85 handle 23 psi and 11.61 c/r?

Also would I only need a 1cc valve relief with 127550 cams?

Everything I've read including white papers from the government and colleges states that an internal combustion engine won't detonate with a 50% or better blend of ethanol/gasoline.

The most I ran was 19psi and 10.76:1. Never had an issue and made 699rwhp with stock cats.

I'd go for it but that's me. Have you played around with the boost compression calculators at all? Higher compression will result in a higher cylinder pressure with less boost. Seems like a win/win situation to me.

http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm
 

05stroker

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Everything I've read including white papers from the government and colleges states that an internal combustion engine won't detonate with a 50% or better blend of ethanol/gasoline.

The most I ran was 19psi and 10.76:1. Never had an issue and made 699rwhp with stock cats.

I'd go for it but that's me. Have you played around with the boost compression calculators at all? Higher compression will result in a higher cylinder pressure with less boost. Seems like a win/win situation to me.

http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm

I have not checked yet. I am leaning towards going with the 11.61 c/r and keeping the 23 psi for the race track and 16 psi for the street via the wastegate and removing the N2O kit and selling it. I have never even sprayed it. That was the next step for me but, if I raise the c/r I don't feel I will ever use it or need the N2O anyways at this point.
 

05stroker

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Using the calculator shows that with the change from 9.01:1 to 11.61:1 will result in the same boosted compression ratio as raising the boost from 23 psi to 34 psi.
 

JoshK

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^Wow, that is a big jump. Just think how much you could dial back the boost then. I have run as much as 19-20lbs on my 11:1 engine(on a stock crank even). I say if you don't have any problem running e85 all the time then go for it.
 

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