Detailing Questions-Answered

[Seer]

Any opinion... better worse..on CG's waxes other than Lava? ie... 50/50, Pete's 53 or Black for a black vehicle either metallic and non metallic.

All I can read is that Pete's is supposed to be for black or dark vehicles, 50/50 is a little better white carnauba with a longer cure time. Black looks like a mess, but I am sure it pops on black (seems to have some sort of glazing compound in it.

Black/Lava have more of a consistency like a pudding. They do have fillers in them, and yes they look very good.

 

[erat]

Black/Lava have more of a consistency like a pudding. They do have fillers in them, and yes they look very good.

Ever tried Pete's or 50/50? (I have Lava). Worth trying or stay with Lava?

 

[Seer]

Ever tried Pete's or 50/50? (I have Lava). Worth trying or stay with Lava?

I find lava to be better.

 

[GrnBullitt08]

I find lava to be better.

And hopefully the Glasur I grabbed from ya looks better...

 

[06Rousher]

In seers detailing thread I wanted to know why you wait a day to spray on v07?
If I'm not using the lava wax can I spray it in the same day?

Thank you
Happy thanksgiving to y'all!

 

[GrnBullitt08]

In seers detailing thread I wanted to know why you wait a day to spray on v07?
If I'm not using the lava wax can I spray it in the same day?

Thank you
Happy thanksgiving to y'all!

You can, but allowing a day between coats give the wax time to absorb in and cure, since Blacklight can be layered. Allows for better protection.

 

[06Rousher]

Makes sense! I appreciate that

 

[5.0 Probie]

Happy Turkey Legs all!

Hey, I have a question... I put Xzilon on my 2010 F-150 4x4 Lariat Crew and loved it. I never had to wax or polish. Dirt all but fell off it and bugs became an issue no more. Not to mention bird droppings and the darn sap from trees finally did not require me to hunt for a safe parking spot...

Sooooooooooooo... I was thinking of having the dealership do this to my new Mustang. But after reading through this thread I worried that that might be a mistake... Opinions? And thank you =]

 

[superslow86]

^ Happy Thanksgiving to you also

What would the stealership be charging to apply this to the stang? Do you have the knowledge and ability to perform something like applying opti-coat 2.0 yourself? That might be a better way to go IMO. I had xzilon on my 2006 when I purchased it but would never do it again knowing what I know now about detailing. I would personally correct the paint to make it perfect then apply the opt-coat 2.0 to protect it. There are a few different nano coating available like opti-coat 2.0, cquarts and i think Chemical Guys just came out with something also.

 

[07TGGT]

I wouldn't have a dealership do it, seriously.

Find a reputable Professional Detailer, save some money compared to a dealership, and don't worry about it not being done right, half-ass job, etc.

 

[00blkvert]

I agree with superslow. I wouldn't go to a dealership and have it put on. To go along with what he posted coating wise there is 22ple and Gtechniq has a couple very good coatings. Nothing against CG but I have heard nothing but bad things about their new coating ss6.

Another suggestion is Sonax polymer net shield. This isn't a coating but its a sealant but it repels and sheets like a coating but it lasts upto 6 months vs a year plus. SPNS is a very simple application to.

 

[5.0 Probie]

Love this help thank you!! This is why I come to forums...

OK... superslow86... What do you mean fix the paint first? I am a total noob to this "Keeping a car shiny". All my grease monkey days in my past have been go fast stuff and all off the streets (Asphalt/dirt/sand). I have zero knowledge of how to keep a sports-car clean and pretty.

Do you mean defective applications from the factory? Blemishes that may have happened while I have owned it? Or?

@o7ggtt... The dealership I work with has always done my wife and I right. I am a perfectionist so to speak. And they have in the past redone a few things for me or my wife if they did not meet our expectations. Are all dealerships bad? I assume because I cannot "see" the applied product I cannot tell if it was done poorly or not. And how do I find a "Trust-able" professional detailer?

@ 00blkvert... I am happy to do this on my own. But I want to do it correctly the first time. I hate listening to folks, then do as they suggest, just to have another person tell me I did it wrong and should have used xyz product or done abc first... lol... I do see the posts telling us the process... No problem. But my car is 100% factory right now. And I work a pretty serious amount of hours. I can find time on the weekends to work on my car, especially during the winter months when the yard is dead...

Am I correct in understanding that if I "Seal" the paint... Waxing is no longer needed or even an option?

I drive about 80 miles a day... So I go by a lot of construction sites with dirt/grime from dump trucks... Regular yuck on highways etc... And want to protect my car and not have to go to drive in car washes. I want to wash my car by hand as much as possible to keep it from scratches and damage. But not every few days...

We "Plan" on keeping this car for a long time. This purchase is basically our therapy vehicle. We love to drive... We love to experience the good things small towns have to offer in our travels... This car is the instrument to that zen... Keeping it sexy, protected and free from washing as much as possible would be nice.

Thank you all in advance!!!

 

[07TGGT]

Love this help thank you!! This is why I come to forums...

OK... superslow86... What do you mean fix the paint first? I am a total noob to this "Keeping a car shiny". All my grease monkey days in my past have been go fast stuff and all off the streets (Asphalt/dirt/sand). I have zero knowledge of how to keep a sports-car clean and pretty.

Do you mean defective applications from the factory? Blemishes that may have happened while I have owned it? Or?

@o7ggtt... The dealership I work with has always done my wife and I right. I am a perfectionist so to speak. And they have in the past redone a few things for me or my wife if they did not meet our expectations. Are all dealerships bad? I assume because I cannot "see" the applied product I cannot tell if it was done poorly or not. And how do I find a "Trust-able" professional detailer?

@ 00blkvert... I am happy to do this on my own. But I want to do it correctly the first time. I hate listening to folks, then do as they suggest, just to have another person tell me I did it wrong and should have used xyz product or done abc first... lol... I do see the posts telling us the process... No problem. But my car is 100% factory right now. And I work a pretty serious amount of hours. I can find time on the weekends to work on my car, especially during the winter months when the yard is dead...

Am I correct in understanding that if I "Seal" the paint... Waxing is no longer needed or even an option?

I drive about 80 miles a day... So I go by a lot of construction sites with dirt/grime from dump trucks... Regular yuck on highways etc... And want to protect my car and not have to go to drive in car washes. I want to wash my car by hand as much as possible to keep it from scratches and damage. But not every few days...

We "Plan" on keeping this car for a long time. This purchase is basically our therapy vehicle. We love to drive... We love to experience the good things small towns have to offer in our travels... This car is the instrument to that zen... Keeping it sexy, protected and free from washing as much as possible would be nice.

Thank you all in advance!!!

He means that you should get the marring(scratches, swirls, etc.) and contamination off of the paint before you get it sealed.

You will still need to wax after sealing the paint, it helps protect it and make the sealant last longer. Also, it makes it look good!


This is exactly why I said go to a professional detailer. They will do everything right the first time, decontamination, polishing, and sealing. They will also give you information on how to apply a weekly or bi-weekly coat of wax. A dealership will apply the Opticoat without even correcting the paint first. Like I said, don't use a dealership "detailer."

 

[00blkvert]

Paint correction is defiantly a have to if you want to coat the paint or even wax it. It is not hard but very time consuming and attention to detail. Luckily for you your car is new so it "should" only have minor swirls. You should be able to do a one step and get your swirls out and marring out then seal it with the LSP that you desire.

Sealant- There are tons of sealants on the market. You Menzerna Powerlock, Four Star Ultimate Paint Protection, CG Jetseal, HD poxy. These are good for a person who drives everyday with solid protection all around for on average of 6 months.

Hybrid/sealnt- I consider these a hybrid because of their application and more of a stand alone. Sonax Polymer net shield, Hydro 2, and Carpro reload. These are more of a spay on vs a regular sealant is on a applicator pad and is applied. Hydro 2 and and Carpro are spray and have easy application. Hydro 2 is actually stupid easy to apply. You dilute it down into a spray bottle with the car wet you spray it real quick and rinse off and it last around 3 months. SPNS last up to 6 months is an aerosol with crazy beading and sheeting similar to a coating. I wouldn't apply anything on top of these.

Coatings- These last for longer periods of time usually 12months+ You have all the ones that were listed in the above posts and they are all good products. These have outstanding protection, beading sheeting abilities. I wouldn't apply anything on top of these either.

Wax- I'm pretty sure you know what wax is. Wax usually last on average of up to 3-4months on average then will need to be reapplied.

I have SPNS is on my car now as a stand alone. It was originally designed to go on top of coatings for even better protection but I don't want my car to have year long protection. I have this for my winter protection, I've had it on for about 2 months now and it's still going strong.

In the summer I use a regular sealant and top it with a wax. The sealant will give me the long term protection and the wax will give me that deep wet look with the beading and sheeting.


Where about do you live? There are plenty of legit detailers around but depending on where you live is depending on what you pay. With detailing you get what you pay and I hate to say it. People can mess your paint up and cover with waxes and glazes so in a few months when the wax and glaze wear off your paint looks worse. True detailers spend the time and actually give your paint a true mirror finish with out hiding defects.


To help maintain your finish comes with correct washing and drying. Drying can be just as dangerous to your paint as washer your brushing against it.
Hope this helps you some.

 

[5.0 Probie]

That helps me a ton, thank you. I live in Washington State/Puget Sound area. Kent to be more specific. This is my commuter/weekend fun car... Wife is in love with it and could not be happier. This is how I know we will be keeping this car for a good long time as long as everything works out like it should...

It sounds like I need to talk with a few detail shops and see who is selling and who is passionate about getting my business and keeping it. I have no issue paying for service that makes me want to come back. Cheats and sales freaks I can do without...

 

[28ONE]

That helps me a ton, thank you. I live in Washington State/Puget Sound area. Kent to be more specific. This is my commuter/weekend fun car... Wife is in love with it and could not be happier. This is how I know we will be keeping this car for a good long time as long as everything works out like it should...

It sounds like I need to talk with a few detail shops and see who is selling and who is passionate about getting my business and keeping it. I have no issue paying for service that makes me want to come back. Cheats and sales freaks I can do without...

May I also suggest, www.autogeekonline.net its a detailing forum. Great resources and a wealth of information. As for the ride, your paint should be in really good shape and if you're lucky you'll only need a light polish of the clear. Paint correction is a must prior to paint coating otherwise you're just throwing away money. Do your homework as far as the process so you don't get screwed. Swirls can be covered with fillers...

Paint correction is defiantly a have to if you want to coat the paint or even wax it. It is not hard but very time consuming and attention to detail. Luckily for you your car is new so it "should" only have minor swirls. You should be able to do a one step and get your swirls out and marring out then seal it with the LSP that you desire.

Sealant- There are tons of sealants on the market. You Menzerna Powerlock, Four Star Ultimate Paint Protection, CG Jetseal, HD poxy. These are good for a person who drives everyday with solid protection all around for on average of 6 months.

Hybrid/sealnt- I consider these a hybrid because of their application and more of a stand alone. Sonax Polymer net shield, Hydro 2, and Carpro reload. These are more of a spay on vs a regular sealant is on a applicator pad and is applied. Hydro 2 and and Carpro are spray and have easy application. Hydro 2 is actually stupid easy to apply. You dilute it down into a spray bottle with the car wet you spray it real quick and rinse off and it last around 3 months. SPNS last up to 6 months is an aerosol with crazy beading and sheeting similar to a coating. I wouldn't apply anything on top of these.

Coatings- These last for longer periods of time usually 12months+ You have all the ones that were listed in the above posts and they are all good products. These have outstanding protection, beading sheeting abilities. I wouldn't apply anything on top of these either.

Wax- I'm pretty sure you know what wax is. Wax usually last on average of up to 3-4months on average then will need to be reapplied.

I have SPNS is on my car now as a stand alone. It was originally designed to go on top of coatings for even better protection but I don't want my car to have year long protection. I have this for my winter protection, I've had it on for about 2 months now and it's still going strong.

In the summer I use a regular sealant and top it with a wax. The sealant will give me the long term protection and the wax will give me that deep wet look with the beading and sheeting.


Where about do you live? There are plenty of legit detailers around but depending on where you live is depending on what you pay. With detailing you get what you pay and I hate to say it. People can mess your paint up and cover with waxes and glazes so in a few months when the wax and glaze wear off your paint looks worse. True detailers spend the time and actually give your paint a true mirror finish with out hiding defects.


To help maintain your finish comes with correct washing and drying. Drying can be just as dangerous to your paint as washer your brushing against it.
Hope this helps you some.

Great info!

 

[00blkvert]

May I also suggest, www.autogeekonline.net its a detailing forum. Great resources and a wealth of information. As for the ride, your paint should be in really good shape and if you're lucky you'll only need a light polish of the clear. Paint correction is a must prior to paint coating otherwise you're just throwing away money. Do your homework as far as the process so you don't get screwed. Swirls can be covered with fillers...



Great info!

This is what I was saying with detailers that say they detail vs true detailers that do paint correction. Honestly instead of paying someone I would invest in some materials to do it on your own. You can spend less to equal to a legitimate detailer and can do it your self and maintain that finish but that is up to you.

I would defiantly invest in 2 buckets, grid guards, a decent wash mitt, quality mf towels, a ph balanced soap and some quick detailer. All this will help you keep the finished you just did or had someone do longer by using a proper wash and drying method.


And thanks.


Another good detailing for is live2detail.com a bunch of knowledgeable guys that I can't even compare knowledge to.

 

[28ONE]

This is what I was saying with detailers that say they detail vs true detailers that do paint correction. Honestly instead of paying someone I would invest in some materials to do it on your own. You can spend less to equal to a legitimate detailer and can do it your self and maintain that finish but that is up to you.

I would defiantly invest in 2 buckets, grid guards, a decent wash mitt, quality mf towels, a ph balanced soap and some quick detailer. All this will help you keep the finished you just did or had someone do longer by using a proper wash and drying method.


And thanks.


Another good detailing for is live2detail.com a bunch of knowledgeable guys that I can't even compare knowledge to.

Yeah well worth investing in the materials. Some people just don't have the time and thats understanding. Im OCD with car, especially being black. I'm about 12 hours into mine right now. Finished cutting, polishing, then today applied paint coating. Let it cure then tomorrow apply sealant over the top...

 

[00blkvert]

Ya I feel you. When I bought it I had 20hrs into the swirls were horrible i'm pretty OCD with mine for the same reasons.

What coating are you applying? Why a sealant on top?

 

[28ONE]

Ya I feel you. When I bought it I had 20hrs into the swirls were horrible i'm pretty OCD with mine for the same reasons.

What coating are you applying? Why a sealant on top?

Haha we're back n forth between two threads...Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Coating, easy on and off! Sealant is also Pinnacle Black Label, extra protection...OCD