Which pads for road course???

[Roadracer350]

He is probably running 14"-15" rotors with 4 or 6 pot Brembos

 

[Roadracer350]

I was hitting the same speeds at MSR Cresson going into the Rattlesnake and coming off of Slingshot into Little Bend. Sessions were only 20-25 minutes each though, I'm not sure how long you were pushing them.

My dad also used them on his Z06 for several track weekends with the same treatment.

They held up perfectly fine for both of us. /shrug

I miss Cresson especially on a bike! How do you like those turbo Miatas!

 

[Budwise]

I miss Cresson especially on a bike! How do you like those turbo Miatas!

Hah, one of the guys we go with has a Ford V8 Miata with slicks and that thing GOES.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SlPRZlGKEyE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bSN0WAzWD0U

 

[Roadracer350]

Yea I got a ride in a turbo miata once down their at a member day between bike sessions and it was pretty quick! The coolest one was a guy had some kind of Ferrari cup car running around once spitting flames on decel that was pretty quick!

 

[neema]

If you go with Carbotechs, don't skimp on resurfacing your discs before you mount them. They're different from Hawks or Pagids in that the pads won't be able to wear off the transfer layer from previous pads you had. This is a convenience you forgo for rotor and brake dust friendliness.

 

[Red06GT]

Another option is Cobalt Friction. They are an excellent track pad and do not require a bedding procedure prior to use. I've gone the opposite direction as Grey Ghost and am tracking my Z06 and the Mustang has street duty. I used the XR2s for several years on the Mustang and use the XR1s on the Vette. They are easy on the rotors and have an incredible heat range (100 - 1600 degrees). Because of the pain in the ass rear caliper, I used to put them on at home and drive to the track. Other than squealing at low speeds, they worked fine on the street/highway. In fact, I drove round trip from the Detroit area to Calabogie Motorsports Park (near Ottawa, almost 1000 mile round trip including Toronto traffic ) and drove the track for two days all on the XR2s with no issues.

I ran a set of Performance Friction PF01 pads at Mid-Ohio last fall and didn't get them bedded correctly prior to use. They left a ton of pad material on the rotors and chattered like crazy. I threw on a new set of XR1s at lunch and they ran perfect right out of the box. To be fair, I liked the PF01s until they gummed up the rotors (I have brake cooling on the Vette). I just hate having to pre-bed pads prior to use. I use Hawk HPS pads for the street on both cars.

I've never run the DCTs or Carbotechs so I don't have a comparison with them. I believe the DCTs require bedding and the Carbotechs specify that you to use their street pads or have fresh rotors.

I have a used set of XR2s from an '06 with stock calipers (one track day on them) I'd like to part with. PM if interested.

 

[Marc s]

Thanks Marc, nice to hear from someone familiar with that track. Yes, you are friggin booking it into turn 2! Do you have stock dia brake rotors on that car?

14" front and rear with 6 piston calipers on the front.

 

[dontlifttoshift]

Help me out with brake pads guys.

Current setup is stock rotors and Hawk HP+ pads and a factory Brembo setup. They have proven adequate to this point as a do all pad. DD, AutoX, and track days but I hate the noise. Headed to Gingerman several times in the near future and will be co driving the car all day and may end up in back to back sessions so I want to be prepared. Top speeds should be under 120 unless I can channell my inner Pobst and drive faster.

Brake ducts will be added and likely stainless lines and already running Wilwood EXP 600. I am religious about keeping fresh fluid in for track days.

So the Carbotech seems like the simple solution, I would like to avoid carrying extra rotors if I can. I am not opposed to 3 sets of pads if need be.

1521 on the street sounds perfect..... and quiet

AX6? Are they that much better than the 1521 for AutoX? Trying to get away from the noise for DD but could be talked into running them 90% of the time if they are awesome and then swapping to....

XP? for track use. Can I assume that XP8 would be roughly equivalent to what I have now? I am more interested in life span and fade resistance than ultimate stopping power.

Thanks!

 

[sdunlap10]

I just switched from HP+ to XP10 (front and rear) and 1521s for street use. I think next time I get new pads I will go with XP12 up front and stick with the XP10s in the back - I am pretty easy on my brakes, but I still got a bit of fade last time I was out. I can't speak to longevity yet as I only have two track days on the pads.

For background, I am running the Brembos with ducts, on crappy street tires. At Sebring, there are 4 places I have to brake from 120+. I'd go with XP10 at a minimum for road course duty. if you are on sticky tires you'd probably want to go even higher. Get the pads pre-bedded if you can, I wasn't able to get them up to temp on the street, and you don't want to waste track time bedding tot pads.

Have you not gotten any fade with the HP+ in the past?

 

[Norm Peterson]

Right now I'm running XP8's and not bothering to swap them out for the street time between track days. Sometimes they're a bit noisy, other times they're nearly as quiet as regular performance street pads. They are a bit dusty, but I don't think any worse than HP+ (which I've also used), and they're lots kinder on the rotors than the HP+. I have added some ducting, though the wheels themselves still get hotter than I care to hold my hand on after a 20+ minute session - even after a few minutes of slow driving to try to cool things off at least a little.

I don't know how either of NJMP's courses or Mid-Ohio compare to Gingerman, but my top speeds on those tracks are running about where you're projecting yours to be, and the 8's have held up rather well so far. I think I still have about 1/4" pad material everywhere, after 3 dry track days, one thoroughly wet day, and one wet/drying/dry day, plus 2-3 thousand street miles in between. The last session at Mid-Ohio ran over 33 minutes that I got video of, and I know it ran several minutes longer than that, maybe 40 in all, and I had good braking all the way to the final checker.

I do notice the initial bite to be noticeably "off" for the first couple of stops the day after a track day, so that might indicate crowding of the XP8 capabilities. Maybe XP10's or at least an XP10/XP8 combination would be a better starting point in Carbotech???


Norm

 

[csamsh]

I like the AX6's for autocross. They are somewhat noisy, but they stop the same whether it's the first stop of the first run or the last stop of the day.

 

[modernbeat]

After running through most of the Carbotech line, I put guys in Mustangs with moderate skill and aggressiveness on XP12 front and XP10 rear pads. They work well and have decent longevity for the price. For our faster guys, with big power, sticky tires and usually real aero, I put them on XP20 front and rear.

I don't know if it would be worth swapping between the 1521 and AX6 for an autocross unless this was a nationally competitive car, or you typically ruined your brakes by left footing it hard on every corner to get the car rotated.

 

[sheizasosay]

I don't know if it would be worth swapping between the 1521 and AX6 for an autocross unless this was a nationally competitive car, or you typically ruined your brakes by left footing it hard on every corner to get the car rotated.

So... you're saying Terry is having a hard time rotating without brakes?

 

[csamsh]

I don't know if it would be worth swapping between the 1521 and AX6 for an autocross unless this was a nationally competitive car, or you typically ruined your brakes by left footing it hard on every corner to get the car rotated.

Probably not. The only reason I bought AX6's instead of 1521's was because I don't daily drive my car.

 

[dontlifttoshift]

Have you not gotten any fade with the HP+ in the past?

Not really. I'm not a trackday junkie and have been to Gingerman a couple of time and ran Autobahn once. That is the extent of my trackday experience but that is about to change. When I did track the car I was more concerned with staying where I should and watching corner stations so I wasn't really drving as hard as I could/should.....I guess.

I don't know if it would be worth swapping between the 1521 and AX6 for an autocross unless this was a nationally competitive car, or you typically ruined your brakes by left footing it hard on every corner to get the car rotated.

It's looking like 1521s and XP12/10s are the right choice then. Any thoughts on pre bedded pads? Do you stock them or can you drop them to me?

 

[dontlifttoshift]

Probably not. The only reason I bought AX6's instead of 1521's was because I don't daily drive my car.

I don't either but my wife does and is tired of all knowing, mechanical types telling here to get her brakes checked and then trying to explain because racercar. The other accountants won't even ride with to lunch. She doesn't see the same humor in it that I do.

 

[Norm Peterson]

I don't either but my wife does and is tired of all knowing, mechanical types telling here to get her brakes checked and then trying to explain because racercar.

What she needs to do is give a proper demonstration (with warm-ish brakes).

"Because THIS" <steps on brake pedal firmly just short of ABS activation, without obvious effort> . . . followed up by "are your brakes that good? Why not?"


Norm

 

[dontlifttoshift]

That would be awesome on video.

Ordered AX6 and XP12/10 this morning. I will report back in a few weeks.

 

[claudermilk]

So... you're saying Terry is having a hard time rotating without brakes?

Ooooooo.... I see what you did there.

I'm just getting Carbotechs myself. 1521 for the street and XP10/8 for the track (pre-bed through KNS).

 

[modernbeat]

So... you're saying Terry is having a hard time rotating without brakes?

There's a difference between trail braking with the left foot and adding -MORE- braking at the apex, disrupting the ultimate grip, to get the car to spin on it's front axle and rotated around the apex. Brake rotation is usually slower and results in lower exit speeds. Works in autocross, but not appropriate for road course use and the car should be tuned so it's not required on track. Doesn't mean someone won't still use that technique, but if you can dial out the understeer, it won't be needed.

Or were you just taking a poke at Terry?
Because his driving is certainly not perfect.