LCA's and or UCA's do we need them on a DD that has been lowered?

[FIVE-OH]

You are an auto, do you even have wheel hop? I had zero even when stock...

 

[5.0 Probie]

You are an auto, do you even have wheel hop? I had zero even when stock...

Not sure yet. Yesterday was the first day with the new springs. I normally take it easy at first, re-torque everything, then "Test".

I can say the tires spin sooner. Looks like with a stable car I need more traction and will begin the research path for the next set of tires...

I will do a UCA for reasons I mentioned earlier. I care about keeping my drive-lines and such at the angles they can thrive in.

Having built jeeps from a 3B up to a YJ... I have had more than a few adventures with pushing my luck all the way to a new set of driveshafts being the first items purchased as the lift was next...

That is also why I started this thread. I am a total noob with Stangs and need to learn before I just do.

 

[FIVE-OH]

Not sure yet. Yesterday was the first day with the new springs. I normally take it easy at first, re-torque everything, then "Test".

I can say the tires spin sooner. Looks like with a stable car I need more traction and will begin the research path for the next set of tires...

I will do a UCA for reasons I mentioned earlier. I care about keeping my drive-lines and such at the angles they can thrive in.

Having built jeeps from a 3B up to a YJ... I have had more than a few adventures with pushing my luck all the way to a new set of driveshafts being the first items purchased as the lift was next...

That is also why I started this thread. I am a total noob with Stangs and need to learn before I just do.

If your drop is less then 1.25" you may not even need a UCA. Most don't run them. With a mild drop I would just do LCA's, relocation brackets and adjustable panhard rod. Plus from what I hear the UCA is a bitch to install, the main bolt is torqued to like 300 ft lbs I think.

 

[Riptide]

Its an easy install. Especially on coyote cars since the tank doesnt need to come down. Only part thats even slightly hard is torquing the bolt on top of the differential.


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[FIVE-OH]

Its an easy install. Especially on coyote cars since the tank doesnt need to come down. Only part thats even slightly hard is torquing the bolt on top of the differential.


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Oh no tank drop? Thought that was all S197's?

 

[Department Of Boost]

Oh no tank drop? Thought that was all S197's?

You don't really have to drop the tank on any of them. You can just loosen the strap bolts up till they are barely in there and the tank ill drop enough to get the UCA mount out.

And when you are done all you do is press the tank up with your hand and tighten the straps down.

I've done the above with full tanks with no trouble at all.

 

[Riptide]

AFAIK on coyote cars there is enough room so you don't even have to do anything with the tank or straps. Or so I've read. Have only done the job on a 3v myself.


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[BMR Tech]

You do not have to loosen the straps on the 11+ cars.

 

[Rob72]

I'd get as many suspension parts as you can afford. But you don't have to get them all at once. As far as I know the Shelby GT was lowered with no other suspension modifications so it's not mandatory for a simple enthusiast.

 

[Whiskey11]

You don't really have to drop the tank on any of them. You can just loosen the strap bolts up till they are barely in there and the tank ill drop enough to get the UCA mount out.

And when you are done all you do is press the tank up with your hand and tighten the straps down.

I've done the above with full tanks with no trouble at all.

Or you could just bipass this UCA bullshit all together and go with a torque arm. I did... once the UCA was out... DONE! it is staying the fuck out now!

 

[5.0 Probie]

What is a torque arm? Seriously, I have no idea...

In other news... Rims got mounted today and I installed the PHB... Getting the factory one out was a crowbar fun fest... Love the adjustment of the Steeda, but not to sure about how it bends so easily...

Alignment scheduled for in the morning. Then I will check all the torqued items and go to my favorite "Cough" down hill testing spot and see how much english she wants now...

 

[Whiskey11]

What is a torque arm? Seriously, I have no idea...

In other news... Rims got mounted today and I installed the PHB... Getting the factory one out was a crowbar fun fest... Love the adjustment of the Steeda, but not to sure about how it bends so easily...

Alignment scheduled for in the morning. Then I will check all the torqued items and go to my favorite "Cough" down hill testing spot and see how much english she wants now...

Rigidly mounts to the axle and is constrained in the vertical and side to side direction at the chassis mounting point (it can "plunge" fore/aft with the arc the LCA's create). Eliminates axle windup entirely and uses that force to plant the tires. IC location is very stable compared to a 3 link setup which has it's pro's and con's.

This allows me higher %Anti-squat without dicking with LCA relocation brackets or the UCA since a Torque Arm replaces the UCA. Less NVH than an aftermarket UCA with sphericals (which is what I would use because Corner Carver) with higher degree of roll freedom than an UCA with Poly bushings at both ends.

 

[Mach2burnout]

Here my opinion. And that's just what it is.

First those of you griping about steeda sport springs riding like crap I call BS! Cut your bump stops in the rear and it will ride great!
Second if your drag racing with a bunch of HP you may need/want the lca relocation brackets to increase grip and forward motion off the starting line (just remember all things come with a price) if your doing road course or auto x, unless you need/want to steer the car with the rear then these brackets are not needed.
Third the LCAs just make the car feel better, they add a little noise but not much. The BMR uca bracket I like, the uca itself added so much gear whine I had to take it off.

Just remember to do one thing at a time and document what that change does and or how it feels/sounds. This way if you don't like it or the seat of pants feel is not right or lap times drop you know what to change back.



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[jodadejss06gt]

I don't do a bunch of corners with my car, just the occasional on ramp. I don't even have a front sway bar anymore. I've cut a 1.49 with Steeda Ultra lite springs(about the least amount of drop you can do) and I only have Billet LCAs with no brackets. I haven't had an issue with my UCA that I know of and my car has been lowered for 50k+ miles.

As someone above mentioned. Do one thing at a time, drive it, feel it, launch it, and if you are happy with it move on to the next if you so feel the need.

 

[5.0 Probie]

Good advice folks. And thanks for the photo W11...

I have noticed one this right away. Much easier to break the tires loose. In fact it is easier than I would expect. The car acts more like it want to drift than drive.

Now this is just me pushing a little more each time I find a corner I know so I can see how the car wants to react. One corner has a bump, another is new ECT.

I hope one it gets aligned, and the PHB now has the rear dead center, that this wheel spin will be reduced.

Keep in mind, I can "Feel" the rear breaking loose. I am not speaking to burnouts. I am controlling the throttle and feeling the activities of the car. Suspension response, tire flex, steering input ECT.

 

[Sky Render]

Or you could just bipass this UCA bullshit all together and go with a torque arm. I did... once the UCA was out... DONE! it is staying the fuck out now!

Wait, what? You originally said you didn't think the torque arm made enough of a difference to warrant installing it unless you had to due to SCCA class restrictions.

 

[RED09GT]

This is the progression of my 09 GT:
After my first trip to the dragstrip, I discovered that my car wheel hopped terribly with the stock suspension. To fix it, I got drag radials (275/40 17 NT05R's) and Steeda chrome moly LCA's. This solved my wheelhop issue.

I then grew tired of the spongy feeling of the stock shocks and struts so I went with steeda sport springs and tokico d-specs. This really changed the feel of the car and gave me a connection to the tires that was completely absent with the stockers. This is still one of my favorite changes to my car.

My first dragstrip trip with the shocks/struts/springs was a disappointment as wheelspin was a big problem. It could have been the settings of the shocks/struts, the need for relocation brackets, or it could have been as simple as me forgetting to cut down my bumpstops, we'll never know. Other than that, the car still felt great on the road and living in BC, there are no shortage of spectacular mountain roads to play on.

I then fell into temptation of black friday sales and got BMR relocation brackets, BMR poly adjustable upper arm and mount, BMR radiator support with swaybar brackets, and a steeda Panhard bar and brace.
I installed all those parts at the same time and while I was back there, I noticed the bumpstops and all the black marks from hitting it-oops-cut them down at this time as well.
I used the top hole on the upper bracket and the middle hole for the lower brackets.

With these changes my 60' has dropped from 2.14 as my best stock time-wheel hopping the fillings out of my teeth down to a best of 1.70 and a dead hook. I am pretty sure with the WOT box and some more practice (only 6 runs so far with the latest changes) I think it will go deep into the 1.6's.
After I'm done at the strip, I set the shocks/struts to 3 1/2 turns out and it gives me a setup that far exceeds what the stock tires can hold. This will obviously be my next purchase.

This setup works for me for a street car that sees drag strip time. There are better options for the dragstrip and there are better options for carving corners but this is a good balance of both for me.

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[5.0 Probie]

Thank you RED. I find it interesting that you also (If I am understanding your info) found less traction once you put the Steeda's under your car. For me it is like driving on a wet road. Easy to spin the wheels.

What do you think gave you back your traction in the kit you purchased?

In other news...

Alignment was a big success. Car feels far more accurate and the body language I get out of it lines up better with how I am "Tossing" it in or out of corners. I guess I could say it is more predictable now.

Springs are a home run for me.

Shocks clearly need to be next on my list. In some places you can feel the springs overwhelm the stock shocks. In other areas it does fantastic and a comfortable "Sport" ride.

I would like a bit less of the road feel. I can feel pretty much everything right now. And it translates into the steering wheel as well. Kind of cool seeing that the steering is electronic, that it still allows that much feedback...

 

[RED09GT]

Thank you RED. I find it interesting that you also (If I am understanding your info) found less traction once you put the Steeda's under your car. For me it is like driving on a wet road. Easy to spin the wheels.

What do you think gave you back your traction in the kit you purchased?

It was probably the relocation brackets. I did adjust my pinion angle when I installed the upper so that could have been a factor. I had a mild driveline vibration at 85 mph after lowering the car, after adjusting the pinion angle to -2, the vibration is gone until at least 125 mph.



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[Sharad]

As has already been well established, control arms aren't needed but highly recommended for the wheel hop reduction and handling improvement.