2008 Stage 3 ROUSH - Rebirth...

[05stroker]

but how does the number "3" end up on the front cap? you cant interchange that cap with any other, that's strange....

That was my thought when I saw the pics. I would send them back.

 

[AutoXRacer]

That was my thought when I saw the pics. I would send them back.

They are boxed and shipping labels taped!! Going to UPS today after work.

 

[AutoXRacer]

Today I got my new replacement heads...found something else on the LH head... sigh

What do you think, I am just going to take it to my engine builder to buff it out. lol

Can you see it? Its right there man!!! lol

 

[BruceH]

I don't think that's going to hurt anything. Burnish the high spots and it should be good to go. That's how it looks from here.

 

[one eyed willy]

I don't think that's going to hurt anything. Burnish the high spots and it should be good to go. That's how it looks from here.

what bruce said,knock it down and let it ride. there is plenty of sealing surface around that to keep any issues away.

 

[AutoXRacer]

what bruce said,knock it down and let it ride. there is plenty of sealing surface around that to keep any issues away.

How would you knock it down?

 

[eighty6gt]

Pocket knife. Sharpening stone. Emery cloth over wood. Light taps with a hammer.

 

[one eyed willy]

just the end of a file or a some emery cloth like suggested above,that's all your machine shop will do.

 

[skwerl]

Hammer and punch.

 

[JimIII@JDM]

I would let your machine shop handle this, very easy fix Gerald.

 

[AutoXRacer]

So this may be more of an issue than I thought!!!

If that nick falls on the fire ring of the gasket, I'm screwed!! Will need to send it out to get fixed or another 2.5 weeks if I send it back to FRPP... sigh

Will check where the firing ring sits when I get home.

 

[DiMora]

Pocket knife. Sharpening stone. Emery cloth over wood. Light taps with a hammer.

just the end of a file or a some emery cloth like suggested above,that's all your machine shop will do.

Hammer and punch.

A gallon of gasoline and a long fuse.



If it is not on a sealing surface, you should be fine, but check carefully. Modelling clay in the area then mock-up the gasket. Remove the gasket, then check to see where it hits. If in a non-critical area, I agree with Skwerl. Flat punch and hammer, then emery cloth it.

If in a critical area, do NOT try to "fix" it and send it back.

 

[AutoXRacer]

Gasket layed out on the sealing surface:

The defect sits right there!!!

So I took the heads to my engine guy and he said its not worth shipping it back. He can mill both heads to a perfect flat surface.

He said something that I am wondering if I should be concerned with...
When he saw the heads, he said its the first time he has seen radius-ed water/oil jackets!!

He showed me all the heads he had in the shop from other performance and non-performance applications and they all had sharp edges; not rounded.

Should I be worried about his comment?

Another comment he made was that he was not impressed at all with the finish of the surfaces. He commented, when you buy a FRPP head, you are paying for the R&D engineering...not the finishing work which is done by a low paid laborer.
He commented that all the heads he has seen, from Edelbrock, Dart, Brodix, etc all are great designs, but the finish/detail work is atrocious.

So he said he will pull the valves, check the seats, etc... He said he would hate for me to put some mediocre finished heads on a meticulously built short block.

 

[BruceH]

Breaking sharp edges is always a good thing. Sharp edges lead to stress risers. I wouldn't be concerned about it.

Did you ask him what he will measure the surface with after he mills them? Or, does he know the RA (roughness average) for a mls gasket motor? He probably does but it's good to ask.

Gasket layed out on the sealing surface:

The defect sits right there!!!

So I took the heads to my engine guy and he said its not worth shipping it back. He can mill both heads to a perfect flat surface.

He said something that I am wondering if I should be concerned with...
When he saw the heads, he said its the first time he has seen radius-ed water/oil jackets!!

He showed me all the heads he had in the shop from other performance and non-performance applications and they all had sharp edges; not rounded.

Should I be worried about his comment?

Another comment he made was that he was not impressed at all with the finish of the surfaces. He commented, when you buy a FRPP head, you are paying for the R&D engineering...not the finishing work which is done by a low paid laborer.
He commented that all the heads he has seen, from Edelbrock, Dart, Brodix, etc all are great designs, but the finish/detail work is atrocious.

So he said he will pull the valves, check the seats, etc... He said he would hate for me to put some mediocre finished heads on a meticulously built short block.

 

[AutoXRacer]

I need to take you with me to talk to the builder...

 

[JimIII@JDM]

Milling the heads sounds like a fine plan Gerald, I would recommend the same. We go over the finishing work on all the heads we get wether they are from FRPP, another machine shop, or just stock. Always want to make sure when building a motor.

We have been using the FRPP heads for almost 2 years now and for the most part they have been flawless. FRPP stands behind any issues and will replace any defective heads. That being said we had a set on the shelf ready for an 3v engine build here, as Matt reinstalled the cam caps after fitting the Comp cams he spun them over and they were binding. He took the cam out looked closer and noticed all the caps were shifted. He checked the scribe marks and they all matched. You were concerned about this with the first set of heads and that really ended up not being an issue but for us it was, I think it jinxed me..... Anyways FRPP is replacing the head. The left side was fine, just the right head they sent us was no good. Also, these heads are on back order until May 30th for the R side and "Untill further notice" for the L side. SMH

JimIII

 

[AutoXRacer]

So its a good thing then that the engine guy wants to go through the heads with a microscope...?? lol

Thanks Jim... I was starting to think I was getting taken advantage of with needless work.

Should I have gave him my cams too, to look over? I have seen a thread or two where the cams had sharp edges and such.

This is getting out of hand... I'm afraid I will end up with a $5K machining bill. sigh

 

[JimIII@JDM]

So its a good thing then that the engine guy wants to go through the heads with a microscope...?? lol

Thanks Jim... I was starting to think I was getting taken advantage of with needless work.

Should I have gave him my cams too, to look over? I have seen a thread or two where the cams had sharp edges and such.

This is getting out of hand... I'm afraid I will end up with a $5K machining bill. sigh

We clean up all the cams we install on a lathe first, so yeah its not a bad idea if he would check them.

 

[AutoXRacer]

I need your help!!!

This is the situation:

My local engine builder is assembling the short block. He ordered the same Speed Pro 149M main bearings as was installed originally. When he checked the clearances, he says they were too tight. Not sure what they were.

So he is putting in +0.001" extra clearance bearings which are only made by ACL Bearings: http://www.aclperformance.com.au/Ford4.6DOHCBearings.htm

Ford Specs for the 4.6L main bearing clearances are:
0.0019"-0.0009"

My JDM build sheet speced them to:
0.0022"-0.0021"

My local builder is aiming for:
0.0025"-0.0028"

What is this going to do to the motor overall?
Why is he trying to go with so much clearance?

My local builder is not using the Ford specs. He is using some formula to calculate clearances.

Do I need to stop this build immediately?

 

[dysan]

That was the clearance my builder used for my current engine. .0025-.0028 and it has been working great. To get that we had to get two sets of bearings unfortunately. In my last engine I was able to just use the oversized bearings in all the mains but in my current engine that would have been too much clearance so we had to split standard size and oversize. We used the coated clevite bearings in my engine fyi and I just asked my builder and if they were uncoated the clearance should be the same if not a little looser.