Max temp of dust shields ?

Pentalab

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What is the typ max temp of front dust shields? Has anyone put a heat sensitive strip on the back side of one?

This would be in the case of front (A) oem dust shields. (B) dust shields with the angled tube on it for interconnecting to a brake duct hose.

What about the temp of the rear dust shields? My understanding is the rear dust shields are normally removed. If they are not removed, how much hotter will the rear rotor's get? Is it worth removing the rear dust shields ?
 
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Arustik

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I read a post on here (maybe it was Terry) about removal of the rear dust shields for proper ventilation, but this mostly applies to track conditions.

Having said that I will be removing my rear dust shields tomorrow.
 

sheizasosay

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Test it. http://www.raceshopper.com/temperature_paint.shtml.

You can use the paint on rotors, but the strips are for calipers. I would guess the strips to be better for the dust shield. Plus, if you're gonna track your car, it can tell you a lot about your cooling and what pads are the better choice for your "local" track.

Personally, I'd skip that test. Pull the rear shields and duct the front. Use the paint for its intended purpose, but you got your own perogative.
 
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zeroescape

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Whats to gain by leaving the rear on?

I dont see why you would even care about a ducted front. The shields have so much surface area to mass ratio and a well ventilated air gap they are going to shed heat pretty fast. If your melting your hose you have bigger issues.
 

sheizasosay

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I dont see why you would even care about a ducted front. The shields have so much surface area to mass ratio and a well ventilated air gap they are going to shed heat pretty fast. If your melting your hose you have bigger issues.

Why wouldn't he care about a ducted front?
 

zeroescape

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Why wouldn't he care about a ducted front?

I dont get the point of the question. Whats the end goal? To know the temperature of the dust shield? What are you going to do with this info?

What im saying is, your not going to remove your ducted heat shield bringing cool air to the rotor because its too hot. That would be counter productive.
 

Pentalab

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There are other flexible hose material options that would fit in lieu of the typ high temp orange silicone stuff (which I think is good for aprx 550 F). If I knew what the typ dust shield temps are at, it might narrow things down a bit. Of course with ducted / forced air passing through the rear dust shields, their temps will drop anyway. By how much, I don't know..yet. It could be low enough that alternate flex tubing might be able to be used.

I came up with three ways to duct / force air to the oem rear dust shields. One involves flexible hosing, using air from below the car. One involves using a rigid coupling assy, that also uses below car air. The 3rd one uses flex hoses into the trunk area, and uses a dual squirrel cage blower, forcing air into each flex hose.

This is just an experiment more than anything else. Sure, 13.8" GT-500 rear rotors..sans dust shields will work. The problem is... I use several different wheels during the year...and some of them will not clear a 13.8" rear rotor. ( like 18" deep dish wheels, all 17" wheels, or any 15" wheel used for drag racing). I have the same issue with the front rotors. Some of my wheels won't clear the typ 14" BBK rotor's and 4/6 piston calipers...which really sucks.

I went to plan B for the fronts..and used ATE brake fluid, SS brake lines, new 12.4" rotor's, semi appropriate pads...and silicone hoses and new 14" dust shields..with hoses to front. Same deal with the back, new 11.8" rotor's, pads, SS brake lines, ATE bf.

I will apply the heat sensitive strips + paint to the rotor's / dust shields / caliper's, so I can get a handle on what I'm dealing with.
 

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