Vorshlag 2011 Mustang 5.0 GT - track/autocross/street Project

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claudermilk

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Little rain never hurt nobody.... #becausestreetcar

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Just an ordinay day driving to work... 3 inches of rain? No worries - my Hoosiers are DOT rated! :thumb2:
Must have been a gas run. LOL at the dash lit up like a Christmas tree. Some electrical tape can fix that...

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Been keeping the Mustang stored in my home garage (above), along with a few other strays awaiting time in the Vorshlag shop.
That's your HOME garage?
:allhail:
So totally jealous...
 

Vorshlag-Fair

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Update for August 14th, 2014: In my last post in this S197 build thread (July 17th) I had a lot more written but it ran long, so I waited until I could get caught up on other projects, including several customer cars and our search for a new Vorshlag HQ, and here we are and its August already. In this installment I will cover 3 events we attended after NASA at Hallett in late June, which include an autocross, a car show, and the Drift vs Grip "5 lap" exhibition race. We will also start covering the race car conversion of Jamie Beck's 2013 Mustang GT, which is being transformed from a track day/street car to a Wheel to Wheel race car using NASA ST3 class rules. And I touch briefly on a customer's Fox Mustang Coyote 5.0 swap and another customer's Coyote 5.0 swapped BMW. But first, new Mustang parts!

More S197 Brake Cooling Products

The S197 Mustang is a heavy car, and has a lot of power and the potential to go fast around a road course. This means one thing: it is going to turn a lot of kinetic energy into heat, and that heat has to be dissipated or it can boil the brake fluid and then you will lose your brakes.



I personally feel that the factory optional 14" diameter (355mm) Brembo front brakes are a damned good set-up, and we've kept this on our car for all 4 years we've raced it. The move to larger 15" (380mm) rotors normally means you are most likely going to have to use at least 19" diameter wheels, which I am loathe to do for many reasons - namely weight, cost, and poor tire selection. We've recently found some 18" solutions for this brake, which I will discuss with our 2015 Mustang very soon (which will keep the 15" brakes). I feel that 18" wheels and tires are the sweet spot right now, and we do everything we can to keep the 14" front brakes cool (and have upgraded to 14" rear brakes as well, to help shoulder some of the load).



In a previous installment in this thread we showed a new 4" brake duct backing plate that we built for our TT3 Mustang, after the issues I had at Road Atlanta. This one-off set is shown in the first two pictures in this post. Now our 3" ducted brake backing plates are more than adequate for 99% of the S197 track crowd, but for heavier/faster cars or for race cars that run in longer stints/races than a typical HPDE session or 20 minute sprint race, the 4" ducts are the way to go. Here is our oval 4" ducted front brake backing plate for the S197 being built.



Ideally you want to keep the incoming cooling air going to the hub and inside the rotor face, which was easy on the 3" ducts but the 4" round tube had a lot of the air pointing right at the rotor itself. Our new 4" oval duct backing plates now force almost 100% of the incoming air towards the hub and inside the vented part of the rotor, which will allow the rotor to "pump" the air out through the vanes and cool more effectively. These 4" oval tubing sections were first hand rolled (slip roller), welded in round, then ovaled using a couple of custom made tools. It will probably make sense to just buy 4" oval tubing, but it was pricy and we wanted to make a small run of these first - we like the finished look on these first few sets and will make another production batch soon.



When we were making the 4" oval plates we also updated our 3" backing plate design, choosing a different Ford part number for the backing plate itself. This new backing plate has more "inset" area for more even brake cooling around the hub and actually takes a little less time to make, as big chunks of the plate don't have to be cut away from this design. The oval versions are more expensive and time consuming, and fewer of these will be built and sold, so they are priced a little higher.



Both the 3" and 4" backing plates are about 1.75 pounds for the pair, so the need for the super expensive carbon backing plates seems a little spendy, to me. But the backing plates and hoses are only part of the brake cooling solution - that cooling air has to come from somewhere. Ideally you want to get high pressure air from the front of the car that has a provision for the 3" or 4" hoses to clamp to. On the 2010-2012 Mustangs the factory fog light holes in the "CS" lower fascia (see below, left) are an ideal way to get the brake cooling air to the front rotors and backing plates. If your 2010-12 GT didn't have the CS lower, get one, and then just don't add the fog lights... this becomes an ideal place for getting inlet air for brake cooling. We've even modified these openings to accept 4" tubing and hoses on our car.


Left: Brake ducts on a 2010-12 via the CS Lower Fascia. Right: There are less elegant inlet ducts kits for the 2013-14

The problem is the GT500 style nose, which is also used on the 2013-14 GT and 2013 Boss302, doesn't have a good place for inlet air for brake cooling. There are some kits that use the add-on foglight housings, but they are located further outboard and don't get the same type of air (pressure) as the 2010-12 CS lower grill foglight holes do. And they have to be reworked heavily to attach the brake ducting hoses to, and the hoses have to make a lot of turns to get to the backing plates. We've seen some kits that just drill a big honkin' hole in the lower grill (see above, right) but we think there is a cleaner way to add brake inlet ducts on the 2013-15 or GT500 nose.



If you have been reading this thread for a while you will remember my black 2013 Mustang GT, shown above. One of the track upgrades we made to this car was a set of custom front brake inlet ducts behind the egg crate grill. We utilized an unused, outer section of the lower front grill opening, opening up 7 "hexagons" on each side (see above, right) to allow for air intake, then made some duct inlet brackets behind the grill and plumbed the 3" hoses to the backing plates. And it worked perfectly. These inlets were quite stealthy and if you didn't look closely you'd never know they were there, unlike the "just drill a big 3 inch hole in the grill" solution shown on the red 2013 above.



We did that one-off inlet kit for my black Mustang back in February of this year, and since then we have made several batches of the 3" backing plates and even our first run of 4" oval plates. People have been asking us - how do I get air to the backing plates on my 2013-14 GT? Well now we finally have an answer: our new brake duct inlet kit for the 2013-14 cars, shown above and below.



We took the old templates, transferred them to CAD and made a run of Laser Cut parts. The video above at left (also linked here) explains how this is built and installed. Look for these kits in our S197 Brake section, available now.

Fire Extinguisher added to TT3 Mustang

Most road race cars have a full fire system with multiple nozzles. Usually there are nozzles in the engine compartment, some more pointed at the driver, and often one or more near the fuel tank/fuel pumps. One of the things racer practice is what to do when a fire happens... normally its: 1) kill the main power 2) pull the car off track quickly 3) pull the fire system 4) BAIL OUT. Burning up inside a race car is not a fun way to go out. Sometimes tech inspectors will ask a driver to come to tech in their race gear, strap into the car and have the nets up and prove they can get out of the car in 15 seconds or less, which is the typical requirement.



"Pulling the fire system" is very unusual, and you won't be allowed to race again until you can prove that the system has been refilled and recharged. The common systems these days are ESS foam based, which can be refilled track side, but many systems like dry powder and Halon cannot be easily recharged. And the most common cause of fire in a race car is an underhood fire, hence the common practice of having a secondary, hand held Halon fire bottle mounted in the car within reach of the driver.

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So if something like this happens (above) you can get the fire put out quickly and without blowing your fire system and potentially ending your race weekend. The Pikes Peak car above had the required fire system but no nozzles in the engine bay, and no secondary fire bottle, so there was considerable damage to the wiring and plumbing underhood before the fire was put out on the side of the road (with sand). I saw the results of this engine fire, and another engine fire at Hallett during the June NASA race weekend that torched a friend's ST Corvette, too.

Also, when I blocked the lower mesh cover for the radiator opening at Hallett and "popped" the radiator cap it released a lot of steam, which looked like smoke, and it kind of freaked me out. It was THEN that I realized... I don't have a fire bottle in this car anymore. It isn't required in Time Trial, but I used to have one (it was added to run a certain event a couple of years ago, but removed when we sold the harness bar it was bolted/clamped to). All of this got me thinking: I need something to put out a fire on the TT3 Tank.



We did some looking and found a nice CNC aluminum fire bottle mount with a spring loaded quick-release pin, which makes it come loose from the mount in one second. Pull, rotate, and go. I picked up a DOT approved, low cost A/B/C 2.5 pound fire bottle, too. I should have purchased a Halon bottle instead of this powder based version, but Halon costs 4-5 times as much. Powder based fire extinguishers make a MESS when used, which is why Halon (an inert gas that smothers the fire) is much preferred.



Now the "quick-release" mount and clamp that came with the fire bottle would have been sufficient, but those spring-loaded clamps always worried me and I liked the feel of this Drake Offroad quick release bottle mount. The black anodized mount felt nice and was made to mount to a roll bar or a flat surface. The mount is in 2 pieces and the bottle is clamped to one side and the other side is bolted to the chassis. Then there's one pin at the back you slide into and then swing the front over another pin, which has the red quick release pull. Olof drilled the holes, used some stainless countersunk bolts to go through the carpet and tunnel sheet metal, and used washers and nuts on the back side. This fire bottle set-up is now secure and gives me a little more reassurance on track.

This Week in the Vorshlag Shop

I started a new forum thread over at the Vorshlag Forums and every week or so I will update that thread with pictures of the strange variety of cars we're working on at any given time. Since we don't have much to cover as far as mods on our TT3 Mustang this time, here's a few of the Mustangs and/or 5.0 Coyote powered cars that are being worked on now. You can see more in the This Week in the Vorshlag Shop forum thread.

Steve is an existing customer who recently brought us his 2014 Mustang up from Houston area for ARH full length headers, catted X-pipe, K&N cold air, a track-worthy dyno tune (at True Street), and some other work. Steve currently tracks this car regularly in Houston running on D-force 18x10" wheels and 285 Michelin PSS tires. For suspension he has Vorshlag camber plates and Ford Racing shocks and P springs.



As I tell a lot of people, we're not a traditional "horsepower shop" and mainly focus on suspension, chassis, fabrication and track prep - but we do offer a few bolt-on power parts, like the K&N cold air kit shown above. This is an easy bolt-on cold air intake that complements the headers.



Another mod we did to Steve's car was installing ARH 1-7/8" Full Length headers and their catted X-pipe. We've done a lot of these but the install never gets easier, heh. Due to the massive girth of the 5.0 Coyote motor getting access to remove the stock exhaust headers is difficult. There's a half dozen ways to do this, but we've found that it goes easier (least time and least busted knuckles) by dropping the front crossmember down about 12 inches.

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The factory service manual shows a custom engine hanger, but we use an off the shelf hanger, which sits on the front fender rails just under the hood. We set it forward, just above the front of the engine. After adding longer M8 bolts and chains to the only two access bolts at the front of the block (goes through the front of the heads, through the front cover), the front of the motor can be secured. Then you raise the car on the lift, remove the front motor mounts, starter, disconnect the steering shaft, loosen the front crossmember bolts, and drop the crossmember down while supported on a telescoping hydraulic jack. On this 2014 model we had to drop the A/C compressor (didn't have to on 2011-13s, so something must have changed slightly) to access the right front header bolt.



Once the crossmember is down it is a game of wrenches, extensions and patience, but the stock stuff comes out and the new bits go back in. We've done a half dozen of these and it always takes about 7-8 hours, with a lift and all of these specialized hangers, jacks and tools. But the results, the added power at all RPMs, there's just nothing else that adds this much horsepower for the money. We typically see peak gains of 35-40 whp with these headers and cats and low to mid RPM gains of 60 whp. No other single bolt-on can do that without adding boost or nitrous.




And as we show above, there is also a weight savings when going from the stock tubular manifolds, cats and H-pipe to the 304 stainless ARH long tubes, high flow cats and X-pipe. We call this a Win Win: a nine pounds drop isn't anything to sneeze at, and there's even more weight to be found in the axle-back exhaust, which we recommend MagnaFlow for. One question we get a lot when choosing the ARH header primary size is: Won't the larger 1-7/8" primaries give up power at low RPMs to the smaller 1-3/4" primaries? The answer is NO. We've seen the data, and talked to the owner at American Racing Headers, and they only offer the 1-3/4" version "because people asked for it", but the 1-7/8" version "always makes more power, at all RPMs. Its the obvious choice". We couldn't agree more.

Eric's Boss 302 powered BMW - Fabrication and Rework



Vorshlag has been known for V8 swaps for over a decade, and lately we're getting cars in that other shops have attempted a difficult swap on and didn't quite get the details 100% on, and we're asked to "fix it". We inspected this '07 BMW 335 for the owner over 3 months ago, where we documented 100s of errors in the fabrication and plumbing. It left our shop until last week with many of the safety and plumbing issues corrected, and a few longevity and aesthetics issues were taken care of too.



I'm not going to bash anyone here, and I won't even show some of the sins we removed, just wanted to warn people: do you research on any shop, and even ask for a list of customers you can contact to ask about the work they do. When it requires substantial fabrication or engine swap work like this, there aren't a long list of places that can do the work cleanly and make it safe for track use.



We had to remove everything and take this car down tot he tub, then re-do substantial fabrication work that included new motor mounts, almost a 100% replumb of fuel/oil/cooler/brake lines, aero rework, Lexan rework, cage removal/rework, and so much more.



Without trying to, we managed to lop 122 pounds out of this car, just doing fabrication rework and track worthy/safety related upgrades. The customer left with his BMW a rip snorting beast that will be safer, run cooler, and looking a lot cleaner than before.

Reney's Fox Mustang Coyote 5.0 IRS Swap - Fabrication and Rework


Reney's 1992 Mustang LX "5.0" is the real deal - Coyote V8, Saleen 17x9s, Cobra 13" brakes, 2004 Cobra IRS, Tremec T56

We just got another Coyote V8 swapped car in the shop and I am strangely excited to work on this. If you didn't know I owned and raced in a half dozen Fox Mustang V8s in college and after, and even worked at a shop in Houston for a bit that specialized in Mustang work where we did engine builds, dyno tuning, suspension work, fab work and cages and more. So this one... Hnnnggggg, it hits me in the gut!


Some of my old 5.0 LX notchback Mustangs - including a white 1992, similar in looks to Reney's notchback

The owner bought this in an eBay auction and it was built a couple of years ago by a shop up north, and again - it has a lot of short cuts and errors that we are being tasked to fix. Its got 99 problems, but a motor ain't one! Unlike the BMW above, this is not a track-only car but more of a fun street car that might see some track use in the future. We hope to get this one ready enough to go on track at the October 25th Five Star Ford track day at ECR and invite Reney to come out and do his first track event with us then. The BMW 5.0 above should be out there, also. That might be our last event in our TT3 Mustang at ECR, too.



The main concerns with Reney's notchback include fixing some heinous exhaust rattles, and it didn't take our shop long to find the contact points (3 places hitting badly). It has a tubular front crossmember, so the plan is to remove the aftermarket shorty headers (likely from an S197 chassis, that do not fit) and replace them wit the only Coyote 5.0 / Fox swap headers we can find, the ones from BBK.



After a year of tinkering with the car, Reney is ready for a shop like Vorshlag to take over and complete the difficult work that remains. We already have the BBK long tubes - which will fit much better than the shorties, strangely enough - and matching catted X-pipe. That's the first work we will tackle, then it will get some new front struts, swaybar rework, fender rolling out back, and lots of plumbing rework (fuel lines are beat to snot) and the battery relocated and wired properly. Lots of little things were noted in the inspection we did and it might be in and back a few times to get everything right.


The issues that this car has are all underneath - and they are many.

We neglected to weigh the car while it was here for a day but we will before we start work on the headers/exhaust, which should kick off in about 3-4 weeks. I know one of my old, nearly stock 1987 LX 5.0 notchbacks was light, and weighed it several times at 2980 pounds soaking wet - that was a full interior car, with A/C, an iron block and iron heads, and heavy cast wheels. Reney's car has a 5.0 Coyote and a T56, plus the IRS, so who knows? Reney has already repainted the car in a Lexus white pearl paint and it looks AMAZING! We are so overbooked at the shop right now we had him take the car back but it should return in September and get the first round up repairs. I will update this thread as we attack each set of issues.

Jamie's 2013 Mustang GT - ST3 Prep



I showed Jamie's GT briefly in my last S197 build post, as it was after we had received the car with much of the interior removed. We weighed it at 3276 pounds with one front seat, which was down from 3553 pound weight before the interior was removed (no back seat, race seats, AST coilovers, Maximum 4-point roll bar).



Jamie brought what he pulled out and we weighed 171 pounds of interior bits, not including the front seats, which consisted of the interior panels, carpet insulation, and 3 days worth of scraping of seam sealer from the floor pan. It has lost a lot of bits and pieces since then as well as gained a wing.



Let's start with the wing upright design and fabrication work. Ryan started off by swapping on another new Ford sourced rear trunk, as Jamie wanted to keep his stock one unmolested. The trunk rework on the inside will be shown in more detail in my next post, but we started by laying out the center line then measuring. The guys used a laser and measured the maximum height allowed in ST3/TT3, which was 8" above the roofline, and kept the top of the wing at 7.5" above the roof at maximum AoA.

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These lower brackets are similar to what Ryan built on the Pikes Peak Subaru, shown at right above. Those worked so well and these were built with an eye towards a production kit with patterns made for laser cut parts. While the Subaru brackets mounted to the fenders, per the crew chief's request, the Mustang brackets are mounting onto the trunk structure itself - which we have shown is plenty strong with our AJ Harman wing mounted similarly and tested to over 160 mph. There will be some under-side trunk reinforcement, don't worry.



After Ryan made mock-up parts for the uprights, Jason scanned them and put them into SolidWorks to create CAD files. I emailed these to our friends at Friction Circle Fabrications and then I drove over and met the owner, Todd, who also is one of the principles at MyShopAssist (our service tracking and customer interface software we use) as well as a fellow Optima Challenge, GTA and NASA TT competitor. We used these uprights and trunk brackets to mount the AJ Hartman Racing carbon fiber wing, which Jamie ordered directly at 68" wide. We are an AJH dealer (his first) and we would have ordered it in the 14" chord and the full 72" width, because more is better here.



The finished uprights came out great, and have a lot of hand rework to bull nose the leading edges and knife edge the trailing edges, for lower drag. Jason and Ryan both fought me on the "windows" added to these uprights, but the mechanical engineer in me wanted to drop some weight with those holes, and it was worth 1.9 pounds. Will it add some drag? A small amount. We will play with this set-up and do some testing to see if blocking off these windows is worth any time, especially near the bottom of the wing where airflow is critical.

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Brad removed the door panels, the side window glass and regulators he cut out the structure on the right side door. Ryan cut out the structure on the left side door, as both sides will have cage tubing in those areas. Next Ryan began removing the dash to be able to extract most of the HVAC hardware. The airbags were already removed.



Here is the interior - before (at left) and after (at right). In this last picture Ryan has reinstalled the tubular and steel sheet metal inner dash structure, which the factory "dash bar" is welded to. This structure will be replaced soon.

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We are going to add a simpler and much lighter defroster, then the dash pad will go back on, as will the factory gauges and main gauge binnacle. The wipers, lights and a few other bits will stay but the A/C and a lot of interior and under-dash bits are coming out.



We've started removing and weighing lots of parts, and you can see the lightweight defrost unit that will go back in (above right). The glass is all out and weighed, as is the A/C bits. Look for more updates on this project in my next update in this thread with more weights and cage pics. The rear and side quarter glass will be Lexan in the final iteration.

Lone Star Drift at TMS, Round 4, June 29, 2014

Lone Star Drift is a drift series here in Texas that is pretty popular. I will admit I don't know much about drifting, other than we used to practice this skill set after autocrosses in college, to learn better car control (notice the sideways silver Fox notchback in the post above? That was normal "autocrossing" for me back then). Still, the only time I have ever been at an actual drift events was when I was doing something like Global Time Attack events where they had a crossover with Formula D or something similar.



One of my buddies who does drifting with Lone Star Drift contacted me about a month before this Lone Star event, Josh Garcia. He races his 1UZ Toyota V8 powered AE86 Celica (shown above, left) in TT3 on street tires with both NASA and GTA and also drifts a bit in this car and some other cars he has. So Josh called and asked me to find a few NASA TT drivers that might want to participate in an exhibition race at TMS on the road course there.... running against 5 or 6 drifters. They called it a "Grip vs Drift" race, hoping to promote road racers to drift and drifters to road race. It sounded pretty crazy, so I called the craziest mofos I know. TTB racer KenO was going to be in Mexico that weekend and TTU racer Paul Costas was too buried with work, but I did manage to snag one crazy TT driver.

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TT1 Corvette driver Marc Sherrin wanted to join us, so we showed up the day of the Lone Star Drift event not knowing a whole lot about what was going to go down, but we were down for whatever. This was a one day (Sunday) event, from 8 am until 7 pm, and lots of drift entrants arrived. They were using part of the infield road course for drift competition, and we used the entire 1.1 mile road course in our two sessions on track (practice and race). Yes, the same course Marc and I both ran at the Optima event in March, where I took 1st and Marc took 3rd place in the Time Attack portion of that 3 day event. My best time in 6 sessions in March on street tires was a 39.803 second lap and Marc had a 40.236 (but his day was cut short by a rotor that popped). We were curious what we would run on our normal NASA TT tires: Hoosier A6!

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With good Hoosiers, real aero, and previous experience on this course we both had high hopes this day, but had no idea how a fast the lighter and more powerful drift cars would do here. We got to the track before 8 am and set up our trailers next to one another, unloaded our two TT cars, checked a few things (we both left the same set-up and tires on from Hallett a week earlier) and waited a bit. Shop manager Brad and his wife Jen (both SCCA racers) arrived and stuck around all day to help with car prep, taking pictures (see gallery below), checking fluids/tire pressures, and loading the car up at the end of the day. I was still in a bit of pain (and still using the back brace 24/7) from the Road Atlanta injury, so that help was much appreciated.

Event Gallery: http://vorshlag.smugmug.com/Racing-Events/Lone-Star-Drift-TMS-062914/



We went to the driver's meeting at 9 am. There we met Aaron Losey and Derick Rogers (who I knew already), who talked about the overall event then the "Drift vs Grip" exhibition. They admitted that this was the first time they'd done this and asked Marc and I what we thought should happen. We had discussed a 10 lap sprint race, we talked about passing and point-bys (which never really happened, heh!), and warned the drifters that our cars were not caged and asked them to "pass with care", but of course... be ready to be passed. :D



The 6 drifters chosen to join us were all veteran drivers with beastly cars that had lots of "tandem" experience - almost all of them RWD Nissans with 500 whp or more. I told all of them that their cars were much lighter and probably faster than mine, and maybe even Marc's TT1 Corvette (which is a handful of pounds form being TT2 legal), but that our tires... might give us an advantage in turns and braking. Marc and I took Aaron's truck out on course after the driver's meeting and set up braking markers into Turn 1 and looked for debris to move on the rest of the course, but we only had about 5 minutes so it was a quick look at best.

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They had drifting going on until our Practice session started at about 10:50 am. We did a 20 minute practice session and I went out in two stints for most of that time. I first did a couple of "feeler" laps to check the set-up. The bleachers were pretty full and the crowd was having fun watching the three TT drivers and another 6 drifters sharing a small road course and making hot laps.



The practice was fun, but it was pretty hot. We were all asked to wear driving suits, and Marc and I both did, and were both boiling in no time. Speaking of boiling - the Hoosier A6 tires on the back of the Mustang got pretty hot, and I spun it pretty good on lap 3 of the practice. Of course I have excuses: first of all, the track was VERY DIRTY in a few corners, as the drifters tend to drag tires in the dirt and bring a lot of it on track with them. Second, my tires were fairly burned up from 2 drivers racing for 2 days on them at Hallett. And, well, its a solid axle Mustang... in these fairly low speed corners I had very little downforce to help add some rear stick. It handled about like it did in March with Optima on the street tires, just with better braking and more front end grip than back then. Still kept the rear tires on the friction circle on all corner exits, with a little bit of yaw.


"When in Rome..."

When I spun (see above) I was 3 laps into the practice, and had JUST ran my fastest lap of the day (39.02 seconds), so I was feeling a bit too confident and the rear tires were HOT. I was fastest on this tight, low speed track once again with a LOT of slip angle on the rear tires. The crowd was going crazy and the car was loose on the exit of the last turn before the bleachers, so I was show boating a bit. I managed a couple of good saves in the video above, but one time was just too much (not enough steering angle!) and I spun it like a jackass. I came into the pits to face Amy's wrath. She was NOT happy, as you can hear in that first video.



The crowd loved it and were all clapping and I was laughing, but Amy wasn't smiling one bit. No sir, she was PISSED. "Don't mess up this car at this event, now..." I went back out for a few more laps, calmed down, but didn't find any more time. The tires got hotter and hotter - these A6s are not made for continuous lapping on a heavy, somewhat powerful car like this. I've warned people countless times that A6s are for autocrossing and VERY short lapping stints (1-3 laps) for Time Trial only. Was it going to hold together for 10 full laps? I was also getting pretty hot, so I came in after about 15 minutes, talked briefly to Amy, then headed for paddock to let the car and tires cool off. I couldn't get out of that driving suit fast enough - it was HOT! It was only 84°F in that session but I got really hot anyway after 25+ minutes in the car (I sat in the car, belted in, for about 10 minutes before we were sent out). Marc was still out there trying to get me to do some lead follow laps but I was overheated and done.

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After this practice session Amy was questioning my sanity, with the potential risk of spinning and tagging a concrete wall here (it happens) or having a drift car bump into our car, for an event that "doesn't count" towards our normal NASA TT or Optima goals. But the truth of the matter is we make a lot of LS1 V8 swap kits for various cars (see above), and a certain percentage of those are purchased by drifters, which I reminded her of. So it was our customers here.



We had a LOT people come by our trailers after this session to see the Mustang, take pictures of both of the red TT cars, and even had people ask if they could sit in the Mustang (and lots of requests for rides on track, which we weren't allowed to do). We even had this picture taken that showed up on the SOUTHERNFRESH Facebook page, where it got over 7000 likes and 164 shares - yowsa! This crowd loved the sinister look of the Mustang - so much so that I don't think we're going to paint the bumper red after all, but leave it black.

Drifting started back up right after our practice session and ran non-stop all day and into the night. They never really stopped for lunch, and it was getting hotter and hotter. We drank a lot of water, but never ate anything. By 12:40 when they had us go out for the exhibition race it was up to 98°F and humid. The heat was exacerbated when we sat in our cars, suited up, belted in, and engines running for a good 10 minutes before they had all of the drifters off course and the track set-up for us. Turns out only Marc and I wore driving suits, too.



About an hour before this race Aaron came by and told us a lot of the drifters were asking for a shorter race, so we all agreed to 5 laps instead of 10. This was a good turn for me, as the Hoosier A6s were getting really greasy after about 2 laps, but I figured I could nurse them to 5 laps. They asked the TT drivers to start at the back, to give the drifters a fighting chance. I was wondering if we could pass 6 or more cars in only 5 laps, as there was really only 1 or two good places to pass. As I noted in practice - we could WAY out brake these guys, most of whom didn't have ABS and were all on street tires. The safest place to pass would be into Turn 1, which was after the longest straight and had a WIDE turn-in area, and went from tight to increasing radius on the exit. Of the 7 turns on this course, maybe we could make some passes into the decreasing radius/off camber Turn 5 (right before pit in), but that would be tricky with a drift car that had flapping/disposable body work right next to you...

Aaron lined us up, and put me and Marc on the back row side by side. Turns out only 3 drift cars + Josh's Celica on street tires made it the race from the practice session. We were lined up 2 by 2 on a dirty patch of track at pit-out, just before the start-finish line. I was hoping for a good start, and as the green flag dropped the 345 rears dug in and I cruised by a couple of cars on the first straight.



I had a good run on the lone remaining car ahead, "Fielding" in his 500 whp 2JZ powered 240SX. He was going fairly deep into turn 1 but I had a lot more brakes left. He guarded the inside line, but I had my nose in place... but backed off at the last second. Glad I did because as the corner opened up on exit he was 45 degrees sideways and yawing a good bit. I got a better exit out of Turn 1 and clawed my way side by side with him towards Turn 2, expecting him to leave me room so I could pass him in the Turns 2-3-4 high speed switch back. Nope! He didn't see me and I had to drive 2 in the grass to avoid contact, but he saw me at the last second and gave me room and I got around.



Marc and I had devised a strategy when it was going to be 10 laps of slowly picking off the cars one by one, but with 5 laps I didn't think we had the time to wait. Marc wasn't as fortunate at the start and had to pick his way through a couple of cars for the first 3 laps. Meanwhile I got out in front by corner 2 of the first lap, put my head down, and pounded out a bunch of 39 second laps with zero traffic to deal. That put me about a 1/2 lap ahead of everyone else pretty quickly. The title screen of the video says my best lap was a 39.6 - I really ran a fastest 39.4 second lap and some more mid 39s, but once Marc's TT1 C6 Z06 was around all of the drift cars he was clipping off 38 second laps and running me down. I could see him back there but wasn't worried, as we only had 5 laps and I had a healthy lead. I figured he'd only be on my bumper well after the 5th lap.

Turns out the evasive grass move on the first lap packed the lower grill opening's mesh guard with grass, once again, and the engine started running hot by about lap 4. Damn! I've got to get our crew to fab up something that doesn't pack up so easily. I started nursing the car a little on lap 5 but was still enough ahead of Marc to get the win. But... where's the damned checkered flag? I had my AiM SOLO lap timer on the wrong mode all day so I couldn't see predictive timing or the Lap Counter, which is normally visible on my preferred screen. With the red mist of an actual wheel to wheel race and the damned heat I lost track of the lap count pretty quickly. I was looking for a flag anywhere but never saw a thing. By lap 7 I was already using 5th gear on 2 sections to keep engine revs down, and that let Marc was able to catch up and get my tail as my temps were too hot to push. So I let him go by into Turn 5 on lap 7, and it was another 3 laps before somebody put the flag out to where someone on track could see it and cars started coming in.



By then I was cruising around running 42-44 second laps, trying to keep the engine cool. I didn't want to "pop" the radiator cap like I did at Hallett (also when I plugged the grill mesh with grass), so I was just glad to have held on for 2nd. I didn't realize until days later that I had the lead through laps 1-6, heh. Oh well, Marc was definitely faster and he deserved the win. The crowd was going NUTS when we came in (I edited out a lot of the "Awards ceremony" in the video above) but we all had a lot of fun. I left the engine running in the pits and as soon as I piled out of the car I removed fistfuls of grass from the grill mesh and the coolant cooled down quickly (the electric fan was whirring and finally had a supply of air to cool the thing down with).

continued below
 

Vorshlag-Fair

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continued from above


Marc: "I'd like to thank biscuits and gravy, for giving me this sexy body. Cheap champagne and beer, and the crazy women who love fat boys!"

The top 3 finishers all got bottles of champagne and we sprayed everyone a bit, but I drank the better part of 2 bottles because I was so thirsty. Whoo! No food all day, hot and dehydrated, plus 2 bottles of ice cold champagne made me a little tipsy, heh. This is why there aren't a lot of road races in 100 degree weather - but we're a dealer for CoolShirt's products and I will add a cool suit to our next TT car, for sure. Even more people came by the trailer after the shootout and asked a million questions and took pictures of the car. I was glad that I didn't hurt the car, the event was a lot of fun, and seeing a cheering crowd was cool. We saw a lot of friends we hadn't seen in a while like Josh, James Evens, Ben Freedman, Derrick Rogers, Britney and Stephen, and other folks we hadn't seen in a while. I don't remember loading up our car or Marc's but we got out of there by about 1:45 pm with Amy driving the truck, went to lunch with Brad and Jen, and after a lot of water and some food we were in much better shape - and still had half the day to relax.



My biggest mistake at this event was the damned suit, once again. Marc was smart and brought a single layer suit, but my triple layer arctic rated suit was too much. I won't make that mistake again (I keep saying that, too). This would be our last track event for a couple of months, as Texas tends to take July and August off of track events due to the brutal summer heat. Oh well, we get to race in December and January, unlike a lot of the country, so it all evens out.

Cars & Coffee July

I drove the Mustang to Cars and Coffee Dallas the first Saturday in July and it was a beautiful day. There was quite a lot of people that came to check out the car, new aero, etc. Lots of fans of the Red Tank.

Gallery: https://www.facebook.com/terry.fair/media_set?set=a.10204141685692958.1073741836.1550367655&type=3

I don't have time to link to pictures in that Facebook gallery, but if you want to see a couple of shots of our Mustang and a LOT of Corvettes with giant American flags plastered all over them (it was around July 4th), click the gallery link above.

So I have been storing our TT3 Mustang at our home shop, along with a number of other project cars, until we get into our bigger shop space some time hopefully in October. We have a back log of customer project work about 2-3 months out lately and can barely take any "day work" at the moment, so to make room here I took the Mustang "off site".



A couple of days before the next event (autocross, below) I had to bring the Mustang to the shop for two reasons: 1) to prep it for this event and 2) to test fit some seats/brackets we were selling to a customer for his Mustang, who lived on the other side of the country. While the car was on Hoosier A6 tires it was only an 8 mile drive to work so I was just going to drive it there on a Thursday then load it into the trailer Friday for the tow to the autocross.



Of course the day I had planned to bring in the Mustang it was pouring raining, and a few inches came down that morning. Bald race tires, lots of rain, what could go wrong? Actually, it was pretty uneventful. These are "DOT tires" after all.

Texas Region SCCA at TMS Bus Lot, July 20th, 2014

I was actually pretty excited to go to this event, which would be our first on the 335/345 tire sizes. The last SCCA autocross we ran was on the 200 treadwear BFG Rivals so this would be a big step up in grip.

This event was being held at Texas Motor Speedway on their outside "bus lot", which is the best autocross site in Dallas and Ft. Worth. The sealed asphalt isn't super grippy but it is smooth, clean, flat and has a large enough space to make a decent sized course. We lost our bigger all-concrete event site earlier this year - a bank had sized it from the bankrupt owners, was still renting it to autocross clubs, but then sold it to a freagin junk yard and they abruptly deleted all previous scheduled event dates, ugh!

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So we had convinced some other friends to join us on this beautiful, cool sunny day in July. 175 entrants showed up, which was a big number. Amy and I signed up in Street Mod and were lucky enough to be running first and working third heat, so we could skip the 4th heat and head out early. We got the Mustang to grid and walked the course twice (walked once then jogged once). I have probably done 300 autocrosses and set up 50 course in my life and I am super-picky about course designs, visibility, safety and crossover potential. I have even be accused of "moving a cone or two" before, but this time... nah, it looked fine. Better than most course I've seen here, and I've been running events regularly at TMS for about 13 years. Had a good flow, visibility was excellent, no crossover potential (when you have 2 or more cars on course), and the finish was straight, after a tight 180 to slow drivers down, and had a whopping 260 feet of braking zone after the finish lights.



The junior karts started first, and they always run separately from the cars - usually at the beginning of the first run heat. We were running right after the karts, and our car was first in line so I was getting the car ready and then .... silence. There wasn't the normal sounds of cars running, the announcer yammering away on the PA, nothing. Must be a timer glitch...



By now many of you have heard the tragic news. Turns out there was an accident. A freak accident that took the life of a young racer. I prefer not to talk about it much, but long story short the kart didn't stop and the driver hit something and was killed. There's been an accident investigation and I'm not privy to all of the details, and while the SCCA will be racing again at TMS next month, there will no longer be a junior kart program in this region. Several other regions have followed suit, or made new technical requirements to add an engine "E-stop" switch to the steering wheel (most karts do not have this) to be able to run their events.

The event was stopped almost immediately after Life Flight left, as the place was crawling with ambulances, fire trucks, police cars and TV reporters. Not many people knew the extent of the driver's injuries at that point, but we knew it was bad. It was on the local TV news later that night and even national news later in the week. Tragic, freak accident and it hit all of us pretty hard. The memorial service the following weekend was one of the toughest I've ever attended, but it was packed with her friends, family, students and SCCA racers.



Personally, I would appreciate not seeing any armchair quarterback comments about this incident in this thread, please. Thank you.

To Paint or Not To Paint?

So we're gearing up for the SEMA show and the Optima Challenge in November, and I know we need to do something with the front flares. They look too homemade and we have our friends at Heritage working on a set of front composite flares for us. When they add those we will repaint some bits on the car, and the front bumper cover was on the list to be reshot.

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But... so many people have commented on the car's black (unpainted) front bumper cover, which we replaced after the crash... do we even reshoot it? Go over to Vorshlag's Facebook page and vote. Thanks!

What's Next?

There is a bit of a Summer Break now, which is nice. We're not going to NASA Nationals East (August 31st) but will be doing a number of events in September and October. We're probably moving into our new shop space in October as well, and then SEMA and the Optima Challenge is in early November.

+ August 15, 2014 - The Optima Challenge event we ran at TMS is being televised on MavTV (7 pm CST and re-airings all week). I've heard the first episode was... a lot of interviews? I hope the 2nd episode actually shows some racing. Tune in to see!

Optima-Preview-M.jpg


+ Sept 20-21, 2014 - NASA @ NOLA. This is always a fun event and I'm fairly certain we're going to this one. Its a solid 9 hour tow but with the track being 20 minutes from the French Quarter... its hard to say no. My best lap last year (1:50.5) was OK but what can the car do now with real aero and much wider tires?



I know I'm just a hack autocrosser that is getting fairly lucky in NASA TT, with a car that exceed my talents, but I felt like my drive at NOLA last year was my personal best event of the year. The lap time I managed to snag was one of the fastest of the weekend, it matched the fastest predictive time the AiM Solo showed me, it was my biggest win in class and my biggest gap to AI's fastest lap of the year. It was also one of the most fun racing weekends I've ever had - both on track and off. I'm really hoping we make it back here, but with the shop moving and other big ticket purchases in the works for the new space, it might get postponed. I'll know more in the next few weeks.

+ Sept 28, 2014 - SCCA Autocross @ TMS Road Course. This is always THE most popular autocross in our region every year, not only because its the first event every year after the Solo Nationals and everyone is less stressed, but because we get to run the 1.1 mile TMS infield road course. Sure, they add some slalom cones and such, but its still a FAST autocross. Technically this was supposed to be on Sept 21st, but the date for the road course got bumped to the 28th. To keep it even more confusing, the SCCA is also having an autocross at the TMS Bus Lot on Sept 21st, on the old date. We'll be in NOLA that weekend but will make the 28th on the road course. Watch the video below to see how this course looks with a bunch of cones thrown in - and come join us!



There's so much going on in September and October (I have some commitment every single weekend) that I don't even want to list it out right now. I'll try to do an update soon with some more info about the various S197 Mustangs and Coyote swap cars we're working on, show the new shop as we begin construction next month, and of course any new race or product updates.

Until next time,
 

Boaisy

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You mention 10-12 guys should get the GT/CS front if they don't have it, but wouldn't the RTR valence be just as good? They can come in a spiltter/duct combo.

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2013DIBGT

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I'd like to say thanks for bringing a clean, full brake ducting solution with front Inlet to the masses. It's something I will definitely be putting on my list of items to add in the near future. Bravo!! :beer:
 

csamsh

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You mention 10-12 guys should get the GT/CS front if they don't have it, but wouldn't the RTR valence be just as good? They can come in a spiltter/duct combo.

Yes, but more expensive/not ESP/STU legal iirc (if you care)
 

Boaisy

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Well, without the RTR splitter (just adding the RTR chin spoiler), it actually $4 cheaper. If you compare both options with their respective splitters (GT/CS would be the Boss 302 Laguna Seca kit unless you go custom), however, the GT/CS route would be about $900 while the RTR is about $700 IIRC.

I can understand SCCA classing, but I don't run SCCA that much. NASA does not put penalties on aero work for autocross.
 

LS1EATINPONY

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yall over here worried about dang brake ducts and crap and im all over here like GIVE ME MOARRR INFO ON DAT FOX BRUH!!!
 

SoundGuyDave

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So, Terry.... A) Cool-suit FTW!! B) with the 2015 chassis, add a cage and change TT3 to ST3!!!! Sound like a plan? ;-)
 

Boaisy

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CDC Chin Spoiler is $235 and also has the openings for adding brake duct kit...hell even CDC sells the duct kit. I plan on adding that later.

CDC is who makes the RTR, all they do is just change the name that is all.

Anyways, my whole point to it is, if CDC/RTR and GT/CS both have brake ducts, are optional on splitters, I like the RTR better in this case ($$$ wise). When I first bought my car, I wanted to be able to put the LS Splitter on, but it is $900 for a GT kit. Actually, when I first got my car, I think there had to be a GT/CS bumper before you could do anything else. I didn't realize Ford had put out a kit friendly to regular non-GT/CS's.

That kit is not helping because i'm trying to cut my mod spending :p.
 

csamsh

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That kit is not helping because i'm trying to cut my mod spending :p.

You should probably not read Terry's threads in that case.

Actually you should probably not go on the internet at all.
 

kcbrown

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Just keep telling yourself that the stock suspension is wonderful and that you don't need anything more than that. :D

Of course, that approach will only work for a few months at most... :(
 
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