2008 Stage 3 ROUSH - Rebirth...

AutoXRacer

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So I finally got my Fore fuel rail issue resolved!!

I took the fuel rail to ETW - Exotic Tool Welding (http://www.exotictoolwelding.com/) and had then cut 0.330 off the end and then weld the end shut. I think they actually cut a little more; I told them to cut off as much as they could without compromising the fuel injector bore.

They did an amazing job!!! Check it out!!

Before:

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After:

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Close up shots:

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Update:

So I have the engine dropped in the car, all connected, transmission bolted, driveshaft bolted, and most of the sensors connected.

All thats left is to fill/service the transmission, install the exhaust, install the high flow elbow, throttle body, intake, radiator, fan, supercharger cooling system, and all the cooling hoses. I'll need to prime the motor once more and then install my oil distribution block.

Oh and I need to figure out how I am going to install the Crawford oil-air separators.

Then I'll be able to crank the motor for the first time!!

I have pressurized the fuel system and so far so good; no leaks.

I thought cutting the stainless braided fuel lines would be more difficult, but it was easy to install the fittings on the ends of the hoses. Its very similar to installing fittings on small nylon tubing for gauges.
 

AutoXRacer

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Is it done yet?

No... :(

Still lots to do...
I just finished the fuel lines, fittings, and installing the rails.
I am leaving the system pressurized overnight to see if there are any leaks.
If everything checks out, I will be removing the factory lines.

I need to find some local AN wrenches.

I probably won't be cranking the motor until next weekend.
 

AutoXRacer

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Update:

Have not done much on the car...seems like work days do not offer enough time after work to get anything done.

Pending list so far:
-I have to rewire my dual Innovate Motorsports AFR gauges. I wired them up originally to an open port in the passenger fuse box. I am currently getting a 1 second E9 code on the passenger side gauge which means no enough power/amperage. I spoke with Innovate and they said I would be OK if its just a split second flash of the code, but that they recommend I wire the gauges straight to the battery with a relay. I tested the gauges out directly wired to the battery and got no code...so I have to rewire using a relay. sigh
-Still need to install elbow, throttle body, intake, etc...
-Need to fab my PCV system...not sure how the hell I am going to do that; using a pair of Crawford AOSs.
-Need to install radiator and all coolant lines.
-Finally re-prime the motor and install my Shelby oil distribution block.

I am hoping to get it all done by Sunday night.
 

swflastang05

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Update:

Have not done much on the car...seems like work days do not offer enough time after work to get anything done.

It always sucks when work gets in the way of your build time! I know the feeling my new flexplate is supposed to come in today but I probably won't be able to mess with it for a couple days..
 

crownaviation

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Broke dafuk down
It always sucks when work gets in the way of your build time! I know the feeling my new flexplate is supposed to come in today but I probably won't be able to mess with it for a couple days..
You are either a bad actor or need to learn to "cough" lol. Don't you feel a cold coming on? Dr. Rasmus says two days in the garage aught to cure that
 

DiMora

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Update:

Have not done much on the car...seems like work days do not offer enough time after work to get anything done.

Pending list so far:
-I have to rewire my dual Innovate Motorsports AFR gauges. I wired them up originally to an open port in the passenger fuse box. I am currently getting a 1 second E9 code on the passenger side gauge which means no enough power/amperage. I spoke with Innovate and they said I would be OK if its just a split second flash of the code, but that they recommend I wire the gauges straight to the battery with a relay. I tested the gauges out directly wired to the battery and got no code...so I have to rewire using a relay. sigh
-Still need to install elbow, throttle body, intake, etc...
-Need to fab my PCV system...not sure how the hell I am going to do that; using a pair of Crawford AOSs.
-Need to install radiator and all coolant lines.
-Finally re-prime the motor and install my Shelby oil distribution block.

I am hoping to get it all done by Sunday night.

Gerald, I gotta shoot straight here and hopefully save you some hassle down the road: Innovate Motorsports widebands are crap. I would return them and buy some AEM's. Now that I have had both, I can tell you the AEM is hands-down easier to install and maintain. They are factory calibrated with a soldered-in resistor which is mated to the sensor vs. having to always calibrate in free air with the Innovates. The Innovate I have (replaced twice already) has completely failed again. I ripped it out on Sunday and added an AEM.
 

Pentalab

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Do you have the VMP high flow elbow for your roush 2300 blower ? ( VMP Gen 1 blower uses the same elbow ). To use it, a bit has to be ground off on the oem roush 2300 Blower inlet...to change it from an Oval..to a D. I see that VMP offers an upgrade for Gen 1 blowers to gen 2 blower casing. VMP gen 2 doesn't have the traditional elbow.... the .."elbow" and blower casing are all one unit.

Gen 1 flows 25% more than the oem roush. Gen 2 flows 18% better than gen1. Gen2 should flow 47.5% more than oem roush.

Gen 2 boost is up > 2 psi vs gen 1.....for the same pulley. Put another way.... you could either run more boost without having to change pulleys,( or add an OD pulley). Or you could increase the pulley size on the blower...make the same boost as b4....... but use up less hp to drive the blower..and way lower blower outlet temps.. ( pre-ic).
 
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AutoXRacer

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Gerald, I gotta shoot straight here and hopefully save you some hassle down the road: Innovate Motorsports widebands are crap. I would return them and buy some AEM's. Now that I have had both, I can tell you the AEM is hands-down easier to install and maintain. They are factory calibrated with a soldered-in resistor which is mated to the sensor vs. having to always calibrate in free air with the Innovates. The Innovate I have (replaced twice already) has completely failed again. I ripped it out on Sunday and added an AEM.

What model Innovate did you have?

I have used AEM and they don't offer the range the Innovate does. My previous AEM only read up to 10.0 which if I had a gauge like the Innovate that read down to 7.5, I would have realized something was definitely wrong with my AFRs.

The AEM was great, easy to install and no maintenance. But it lacked resolution and range. Thats the only reason I went with Innovate. I thought they were the mack daddy of AFR gauges. sigh

Yeah, the whole calibrating setup and maintenance is a chore, but its quick and easy to do.
 

AutoXRacer

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Gerald,
I was just thinking...

I think your car has been down for about as long as I've owned mine.

Hey now!!! I drove my M90 powered ROUSH from 2009 through first quarter of 2011 trouble free!! Racing every month, something 4 times a month, plus it was my daily driver.

Since I have moved to WA and the stock motor failed...you are right, haven't done much driving. sigh
 

AutoXRacer

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Do you have the VMP high flow elbow for your roush 2300 blower ? ( VMP Gen 1 blower uses the same elbow ). To use it, a bit has to be ground off on the oem roush 2300 Blower inlet...to change it from an Oval..to a D. I see that VMP offers an upgrade for Gen 1 blowers to gen 2 blower casing. VMP gen 2 doesn't have the traditional elbow.... the .."elbow" and blower casing are all one unit.

Gen 1 flows 25% more than the oem roush. Gen 2 flows 18% better than gen1. Gen2 should flow 47.5% more than oem roush.

Gen 2 boost is up > 2 psi vs gen 1.....for the same pulley. Put another way.... you could either run more boost without having to change pulleys,( or add an OD pulley). Or you could increase the pulley size on the blower...make the same boost as b4....... but use up less hp to drive the blower..and way lower blower outlet temps.. ( pre-ic).

Jimbo, I have the VMP elbow and my TVS casing was modified to open up the inlet. I have asked Justin at VMP to make me an extended snout Gen II...but he doesn't care to. He just tells me to buy a Gen II and swap the snout onto it.

But I don't want to mess with a perfectly good blower... I'd rather just buy a new unit that I can just bolt on.

BTW, I don't need more boost. I had to turn it down remember?? I was boosting 21 PSI and I had to turn it down to 16 PSI max due to pump gas.

I still have the pulley that makes 21 PSI for when E85 is readily available and I decide to max out the motor to make +800HP. Right now it has to be de-tuned due to pump gas.
 

AutoXRacer

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Justin is fantastic at marketing his products.

I think the extended snout (dual belt) TVS are not that popular/common.
Most people have the standard single belt blowers.

Might be cost prohibitive to have a small run of a few extended snout versions. The dual belt also makes more boost than the single belt due to the different pulley ratios.
 

Pentalab

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Jimbo, I have the VMP elbow and my TVS casing was modified to open up the inlet. I have asked Justin at VMP to make me an extended snout Gen II...but he doesn't care to. He just tells me to buy a Gen II and swap the snout onto it.

But I don't want to mess with a perfectly good blower... I'd rather just buy a new unit that I can just bolt on.

BTW, I don't need more boost. I had to turn it down remember?? I was boosting 21 PSI and I had to turn it down to 16 PSI max due to pump gas.

I still have the pulley that makes 21 PSI for when E85 is readily available and I decide to max out the motor to make +800HP. Right now it has to be de-tuned due to pump gas.

I forgot you have the dual belt setup..with the longer snout. At least you have the VMP D shaped elbow and had the blower inlet ported. I wasn't implying to run more boost. The idea was with a max eff blower... like the gen-2.... then you could use a BIGGER pulley..and get the same boost.

IE: his gen2 blower runs 2.13 psi more boost for the same size pulley. Great, now you can use a 3-5mm larger pulley, to run the same boost as b4. Then less hp to drive the blower...and lower blower outlet temps
(pre-ic).

BTW.... you wouldn't have to buy a new Gen-2 blower. You can buy the gen-2 casing only. Then swap the internal rotor pack + gears from your roush blower into the new gen-2 casing. Then re-use your longer snout..and install that onto the front of the gen-2 casing. Then use a 3-5mm bigger blower pulley to bring the boost back down to what you now have.
 

walker2t

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not to hijack, but pentalab has been ignoring me... lol Pentalab, have you put the new roushcharger on yet?
 

DiMora

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What model Innovate did you have?

I have used AEM and they don't offer the range the Innovate does. My previous AEM only read up to 10.0 which if I had a gauge like the Innovate that read down to 7.5, I would have realized something was definitely wrong with my AFRs.

The AEM was great, easy to install and no maintenance. But it lacked resolution and range. Thats the only reason I went with Innovate. I thought they were the mack daddy of AFR gauges. sigh

Yeah, the whole calibrating setup and maintenance is a chore, but its quick and easy to do.

Innovate LC-1 with the G3 gauge. I like the range but hate the calibration process and constant failure.
 

AutoXRacer

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Innovate LC-1 with the G3 gauge. I like the range but hate the calibration process and constant failure.

I hope the MTX-L is not in the same category (better designed/improved) as your previous LC-1 gauge.

I guess I will report back. I truly thought these Innovate Motorsports were the cats jammies (like Carmen would say). VMP and several tuners use their AFR gauges (the dyno ones).
 

AutoXRacer

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I forgot you have the dual belt setup..with the longer snout. At least you have the VMP D shaped elbow and had the blower inlet ported. I wasn't implying to run more boost. The idea was with a max eff blower... like the gen-2.... then you could use a BIGGER pulley..and get the same boost.

IE: his gen2 blower runs 2.13 psi more boost for the same size pulley. Great, now you can use a 3-5mm larger pulley, to run the same boost as b4. Then less hp to drive the blower...and lower blower outlet temps
(pre-ic).

BTW.... you wouldn't have to buy a new Gen-2 blower. You can buy the gen-2 casing only. Then swap the internal rotor pack + gears from your roush blower into the new gen-2 casing. Then re-use your longer snout..and install that onto the front of the gen-2 casing. Then use a 3-5mm bigger blower pulley to bring the boost back down to what you now have.

I am not sure I can run a bigger pulley...there is the hood clearance question. I already had to cut parts off the hood to clear the blower pulley. lol
 
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