2008 Stage 3 ROUSH - Rebirth...

[BruceH]

I'm pretty sure I've told you this before. The LC-1 is the best wide band I've ever had. Never have I had an issue with either one I've owned. It has enough output to splice off of the gauge wire to drive the firewire for data logging at the same time. Calibration is very easy imo, easier than changing an air filter, swapping a pulley, or checking air pressure in the tires.

Have you ever thought about using things that work for the general membership, following procedures and methods that are known to work, and not worrying about the little stuff? Everyone is going to have an issue with something. It happens when you start modding. Past failures are important to take into consideration but a failure that happens (not yours Shane) once in awhile with a highly modded car sometimes can't be easily accounted for even though people will blame something rather than just accepting that it comes with the territory.

I'm rambling now. I guess what I'm trying to say is wait until failure happens before you start worrying about it. I know that you have done your research and already made choices. Now let them succeed. Your part at this point is to put it together and not second guess. IMO second guessing causes more issues than it solves provided you did your research the first time around.

I hope the MTX-L is not in the same category (better designed/improved) as your previous LC-1 gauge.

I guess I will report back. I truly thought these Innovate Motorsports were the cats jammies (like Carmen would say). VMP and several tuners use their AFR gauges (the dyno ones).

 

[DiMora]

I'm pretty sure I've told you this before. The LC-1 is the best wide band I've ever had. Never have I had an issue with either one I've owned. It has enough output to splice off of the gauge wire to drive the firewire for data logging at the same time. Calibration is very easy imo, easier than changing an air filter, swapping a pulley, or checking air pressure in the tires.

Have you ever thought about using things that work for the general membership, following procedures and methods that are known to work, and not worrying about the little stuff? Everyone is going to have an issue with something. It happens when you start modding. Past failures are important to take into consideration but a failure that happens (not yours Shane) once in awhile with a highly modded car sometimes can't be easily accounted for even though people will blame something rather than just accepting that it comes with the territory.

I'm rambling now. I guess what I'm trying to say is wait until failure happens before you start worrying about it. I know that you have done your research and already made choices. Now let them succeed. Your part at this point is to put it together and not second guess. IMO second guessing causes more issues than it solves provided you did your research the first time around.

Bruce makes a valid point.

Your Innovates may work quite well - and I sincerely hope they do. I just had a bad experience with them. I probably should cool down my hatred of them.

My AEM is installed and running. I do agree that the wider range of the Innovate is nice, but I'm still able to read the AFR on the AEM when it is below the arc-range.

Gerald - you are so close to victory. I think you'll have a winning build this time around.

 

[lito]

Range? how is anything out of 10-16 useful?

(I am not a pro AEM guy, I recommend them basically because they are cheap and usually work well and are more than enough for having in a car as a reference, I have seen failures on any of the biggest three mostly used brands -AEM, Innovate and AutoMeter-)

 

[AutoXRacer]

Well today will be the big day!!!! Initial startup as soon as I figure out the routing and mounting of my big ass Crawford AOS cans... lol

The install will look ugly as I need better fittings. Wish they made 5/8 emission hose...
All I could find is 3/8, 1/2, and 3/4.

 

[tigerhonaker]

Well today will be the big day!!!! Initial startup as soon as I figure out the routing and mounting of my big ass Crawford AOS cans... lol

The install will look ugly as I need better fittings. Wish they made 5/8 emission hose...
All I could find is 3/8, 1/2, and 3/4.

Gerald,

Good-Luck when you fire it up.


Terry

 

[crownaviation]

Gerald,

Good-Luck when you fire it up.


Terry

Not supposed to say "fire" lol

 

[tigerhonaker]

Not supposed to say "fire" lol

I guess that is what we Ole School guys saying was, Fire-it-Up.

OK, how about this, Good-Luck when you "Start-it the 1st time".


LOL,
Terry

 

[walker2t]

oh no... did someone say fire? lol good luck on the start up... I'm sure it will be good this time round!!!

 

[retfr8flyr]

Yeah, lets not mention "FIRE". I have a big aversion to that word. Good luck with your start up.

 

[AutoXRacer]

And no idling!!!!!! lol

Start up was great...although the first attempt was FAIL as my battery was low on juice.

Second attempt went great...although my datalogging session FAILED. lol

Third attempt awesome!! I need to button up (install headlights, bumper, and under carriage shields) the car and go break it in!!!

 

[BeachMonkey100]

great news!

I don't even plan to run a bumper for datalogging or breaking in the car when I'm done with mine, hell I will just want to drive it for days lol

 

[tigerhonaker]

And no idling!!!!!! lol

Start up was great...although the first attempt was FAIL as my battery was low on juice.

Second attempt went great...although my datalogging session FAILED. lol

Third attempt awesome!! I need to button up (install headlights, bumper, and under carriage shields) the car and go break it in!!!

Gerald,

So the 3rd time was charm.

I don't think I just speak for me when I say a Major-Congrads to you that finally things are working out for you.


Terry

 

[AutoXRacer]

Gerald,

So the 3rd time was charm.

I don't think I just speak for me when I say a Major-Congrads to you that finally things are working out for you.


Terry

Let's not get too far ahead... We still have the major milestone of the engine break-in. Last time everything went perfect...and the motor never broke-in...

Lots of contributing factors:
-Tune
-Lots and lots of idling (working out tune)
-Poor FRPP 80 LB injector control

The man Lito has the tune worked out... Sent him a data log yesterday and in less than 12 hours he reviewed it and gave me the green light!!

So time to button up the car, bolt the wheels and let her stand on her fours in over 9 months... This time it left longer than last time... lol

 

[tigerhonaker]

Let's not get too far ahead... We still have the major milestone of the engine break-in. Last time everything went perfect...and the motor never broke-in...

Lots of contributing factors:
-Tune
-Lots and lots of idling (working out tune)
-Poor FRPP 80 LB injector control

The man Lito has the tune worked out... Sent him a data log yesterday and in less than 12 hours he reviewed it and gave me the green light!!

So time to button up the car, bolt the wheels and let her stand on her fours in over 9 months... This time it left longer than last time... lol

And we will all be right here as you Post the Up-Dates.

I'll just speak for myself now and will simply say,
(Man I hope this continues down a positive road)


Terry

 

[AutoXRacer]

BTW Terry, what kind of hood is that?

 

[tigerhonaker]

BTW Terry, what kind of hood is that?

Gerald,

It is a "Seibon" CF hood.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MUSTANG-05-...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4abbdd1d7d

I luv it ........

Just as a Heads-Up (BEFORE) you purchase it.

Those are real OPEN-Vents for Heat extraction in the hood.

That is great but ..........

They will also if caught in the rain much less a storm POUR water right into the engine compartment.

And I think that water would be pouring right into the deep pockets where the COP & Spark-Plugs are located.

So you either have to tape up the bottom of the hood where those rectangle slots are or something to prevent the water from coming in.

I'm working on trying to figure something (Simple & Quick) to use myself for that issue.

Below is more Pics and info. for you on the Seibon CF Hood.


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See the Tape on the underside ???
That was so I could drive it from Brenspeed to Lufkin, TX.
Then back to Franklin, TN. in Rain & Storms almost all the way.
That was like 2,000 miles approximately.




When I talked with the Seibon Rep. his words went like the following when I asked about water running in and hitting rain.
(Do you want the BEST hood for getting rid of engine heat or for rain protection)
He was right so as I said I am still deciding what to do under the hood to close off those HUGE Rectangle Vents.

WARNING,

if YOU DO DECIDE TO GET THE "Seibon"

Do-Not install [Hood Struts] !!!


Terry

 

[swflastang05]

And no idling!!!!!! lol

Start up was great...although the first attempt was FAIL as my battery was low on juice.

Second attempt went great...although my datalogging session FAILED. lol

Third attempt awesome!! I need to button up (install headlights, bumper, and under carriage shields) the car and go break it in!!!

Congrats! Go give it a little hell now and break it in good! I'll be right behind you soon as my new SC gets here!

 

[muztangman93]

Not trying to thread jack but my hood has open vents like yours plus vents in the front and rear. I drive it in down poors sometimes never an issue its been caught outside in some major storms as well water gets in but I dont see it hurting anything

 

[tigerhonaker]

Not trying to thread jack but my hood has open vents like yours plus vents in the front and rear. I drive it in down poors sometimes never an issue its been caught outside in some major storms as well water gets in but I dont see it hurting anything

I'm glad your hood does not cause you any problems with water coming in on the engine.

My opinion is if the Seibon CF hoods Large Rectangle vents are not covered from the bottom in some manner the engine will be swimming in water.

Especially in those deep pockets where the COP and Spark-Plugs sit.

I'm not going to test this I prefer to play it safer and cover those vents areas even if it is just using tape.

Terry

 

[AutoXRacer]

Here is a quick recap of the engine build…
I got the short block back from the machine shop/engine builder.

Custom double keyed crank for use with the Innovations West double keyed dampner.

Second key

Cylinder walls…hopefully this time around the rings/walls seat properly.

Bottom view; we used ARP main stud kit.

Test fitting the new FRPP 2013 GT500 oil pan; supposedly holds 8.5 quarts.

TFS (Trick Flow Specialties) adjustable crank timing gears; allows +/- 8 degrees for the cams.

Timing marks

So I started my build with finding true TDC (top dead center) at cylinder #1 (passenger side) which is also the same for cylinder #6 (driver side). Set my degree wheel and locked it in.

Once I found true TDC, I focused on the heads. This time around I was not going to use limiters on the VCT (variable cam timing) phasers. Lito, my tuner had issues trying to control the cams (Comp Cams 127300 with PAC springs 1233) previously, so this time with a more aggressive cam, 127450 and stiffer springs (PAC 1533) I decided to go with lockouts and took it a step further and installed block off plates to completely eliminate the VCT solenoid.
This is where the VCT solenoid plate would mount:

Here is the block off plate; its from the Ford V10 motor.

Installed LH (driver side) cylinder head

Next I moved on to the phasers. Here is the rear plate opened up.